With H.M.S. Acheron on her Early Surveys

Star (Christchurch), Issue 17889, 3 July 1926, Page 25 (Supplement)

With H.M.S. Acheron on her Early Surveys

NEW ZEALAND IN THE FORTIES AS CAPTAIN STOKES SAW IT. EXPERIENCES AT BLUFF. MORE MAORI LIFE. [No. X.]

Anchored under Ruapuka Island. Pleasant sandy beach in sight, backed bv thick wood. A whaler named Kelly, who lives there with a family of halfcaste children, and a settlement of about 100 Maoris are its only present occupants.

The Englishman came off next morning in a large boat manned by Natives, bringing with him a supply of Natives, a gristly black pig. and a firkin of very questionable-looking but ter. He was regarded with a degree of interest, living thus secluded from his countrymen, amidst a half-savage race in this most dreary climate. A harbour called “The Bluff’ was our next intended place of anchorage. In attempting to reach it, however, a sudden squall met us, completely paralysing the Acheron's steam power and forcing us back to Ruapuka. That same night a gale commenced, which lasted for five da vs. One evening, about six o'clock, a sudden noise like the firing of a gun attracted the attention of all on board. The violent strain upon the chain cable had torn up a large portion of the lower deck close to the hatchway, and had any persons been ascending at the moment destruction would have been inevitable. All this time the sea . resembled a huge boiling cauldron, hissing and roaring, whilst its break over the numerous reefs by which the vessel was encompassed had an appearance awfully impressive when seen in the gloom of approaching night. The fires were kept constantly lighted in case the vessel should be driven from her anchorage. Among the Mutton Birds. When the gale had subsided we again made an attempt towards the Bluff, and were this time more successful. There, too, a violent current running against us for some time quite overcame the Acheron’s steam power, and by fixing the eye upon the shore, within a stone’s throw of which we passed, it was evident that the ship ior a considerable interval rather receded than advanced, although she got to the anchorage. April 16-- Sailed from the Bluff for Port William, Unlike the Bluff, it is enclosed on all sides by lofty timbered precipices, at the base of which lie gloomy caverns. Fronting the entrance are three reeky islets greatly resorted to by sea fowl, among which the young of the mutton bird is in great request as winter provision for Natives and Europeans. Three or four bats of a tawny colour, having long ears and pig-shaped snout, were also caught on one of the islands. Mr Evans and party away on duty for three or four days at a place called “The Neck.” They lodged at the house of a carpenter, an Englishman, who occupies himself profitably in building whaleboats for the Maoris, who greatly affect and pay well for that sort of craft. With him was also associated a smith and sailmaker, who contributed to render the outfit complete. Tragedy and Comedy. Monday, April 22.- —Went ashore with the doctor, who wished to examine the corpse'of a Maori woman who bad died the day previous. Saw a very old Native, who seemed tolerably vain of some figures drawn upon her arms, breast, and back, in exhibiting which she was sufficiently liberal of whatever charms the ravages of three score -winters had left her. To each of these skin pictures a history was attached, the separate groups being an abstract and brief chronicle of some event in her experience. There were Maori men engaged in mortal combat with their tomahawks, women as spectators, seemingly encouraging their husbands and brothers to lav on with right good will. The tattoo of her back was a man holding a gun perpendicularly with the muzzle to his head, the suicide of a relative in vears past, detected in an improper intercourse with another chief's “rib.” Anticipating unpleasant results, as usual in such cases, and exasperated at losing his paramour, he had “jumped the life to come.” The prying curiosity of the pakeha as he wheeled round this old crone like a teetotum elicited shouts of laughter from the group of Maori women squatting with her about a blazing log fire, the beldame herself from time to time grinning a horrible, ghastly smile of gratified vanity. As to her dress, it was so neglige as greatly to facilitate our scrutiny, being merely an old mat, by lifting which she sat naked as. Eve. Half crown pieces pierced for the purpose and of old George IV.’s coinage hung as pendants in her ears. On our noticing them, and her extravagance, she said they would be a legacy at her death to the half-caste child which her daughter, the wife of a white man. was suckling amidst the group of laughers. They also wore shillings and sixpences as earrings. This fashion of wearing English coins seems peculiar to the Natives of Stewart Island, for I never saw them elsewhere. Northwards their countrywomen principally affect the brilliant white tooth of a species of ground shark, tipped with sealing wax, which from its showy tint is extensively used for personal adornment. A single drop of semi-transpar-ent greenstone, suspended in the ear by black ribbon, is also much worn; and many thrust into the enormous apertures slit in that delicate portion of their person any small article of European workmanship they can lay hold of. Thus I have seen old brace buckles, a piece of a gun lock, soldier’s brass buttons', the brass-tipped cotton reel so applied. A MAORI BURIAL. After Drs Lvall and Forbes had finished their examination the body was placed in its coffin, covered with a highly ornamented Native mat. The relatives, including the deceased woman’s husband, and all the Europeans of the vicinity, then carried it to a whaleboat and rowed across the harbour to a Maori burial place situated on the edge of the forest, near a little fresh-water stream. As the woman had been already baptised by Bishop Selvvvn during his visit to the Strait, Captain Stokes offered to read a portion of the burial service. We followed soon after, and found a grave already dug in the sand, into which the coffin was lowered with decent seriousness on the part of those aSsembled, which was indeed more remarkable in the Maoris than in their white associates. The grave being filled, all the women present retired, and squatting themselves near the streamlet’s banks soon commenced a low dirge-like chant, which they renewed from time to time, especially when the Acheron's galley pulled off ■iowards the ship. Their dress, a

"medley of Native and European finery, was as varied as their complexions. These alternated from light bronze or olive, the pure Maori tint, through every shade of difference until it ' merges into our English fairness. A few of this bevy of beauties sported fine mats resplendent with costly borders, and had no head gear but the fillet bound round the forehead. Sunday, April 28. 1850.—Left Port William, Mr Bradshaw and party going away at the same time. Reached Port Adventure in a few hours. The young chief Topi, who was on board yesterday, was vexed for his not being well dressed as becomes a chieftain in the presence of British officers. Saturday, May 4.—Left Port Adventure this morning and steamed into Lord Harbour, twenty-two miles. Rain. Monday.-—Left Lord Harbour to its primeval silence and solitude. Came to Port Pegasus, which runs up far inland by a narrow channel that re- ‘ calls Queen Charlotte's Sound. Stewart | Island seems all rock and wood. No

trace of human habitation. A whale seen yesterday on the port beam, about one-quarter of a mile from the ship. “ ’Twere a hump back,” quoth Master Stirling, our whaler pilot, whom they took on board at the Bluff. “ I nose ’im by his spout.” j BACK TO COOK STRAIT. I By the 20th of June the Acheron was again at anchor in Port Nicholson, where she remained until September 10. On the afternoon of that day weighed anchor and steamed for Nelson. having on board Lieutenant Drout, of the 65th, Mr Domett, etc. Went into Cloudy Bay, and proceeded early the following morning. Reached Nelson that afternoon, and remained outside the Boulder Bank until the afternoon of next day, when we left for Massacre Bay to complete the survey there. Came to anchor off a place named Rohi-pipi, literally “ take your cockles,” a simple, expressive designation. Two white men are settled at Rohi-pipi. The principal, named Andrews, seems a very ingeni- ■ ous mechanic. Between them they have built and have now nearly ready for launching a fifty-ton schooner. The resident chief is a fine young fellow, upwards of 6ft high and extremely well proportioned, called Edwin. Another cider of the tribe lives at a place not far off called Takaka, “ the place of parrots.” AT FAREWELL POINT. Monday September 16, 1850, 0.30 a m.—Left the Acheron in paddle boat with Mr Paget and seven hands. Stood in for the shore north-west of ship. Found the tide ebbing, so that ue were obliged to leave the boat onethird of a mile from high-water mark. Took soundings all the way on shore. Proceeded along the beach towards sandspit, taking two men with me. On the way on shore I made a boat station for the purpose of cutting off high bare cone, near entrance of Wanganui. This cone lies two or three miles inland abreast of Wanganui Heads. Made a circle where we left the boat, another at high-water mark, and two more along beach towards Black Cliff. After walking two-thirds of a mile up the Black Cliff Creek we found a track running over towards the West Coast. - This we followed through fern land and small swamps for about a mile, at which distance is the foot of a long spur, or ridge, running to Cape Farewell summit. This side is very sharp, broken, and composed at the surface of water-worn pebbles, chiefly quartz; very rugged, detached mounds lie on the left hand, whilst to the right rises a bold bluff, beneath which were rocky mounds and large blocks of rock. Cape Farewell summit is clothed with tussocks of rushy grass, the same kind of grass and heath or tea-tree growing lower down. The West Coast, west to northwest from Farewell Point, is comprised of bald cliffs. There was but little surf at this time. A low ridge backs the coast fine, but falls inland, leaving a flat of considerable extent between it and the low, bare hills seen from Massacre Bay. A bold, bluff hill taken on Sunday from Wanganui Harbour is a prominent object at this station. This hill, “ The Knuckle,” and a wooded point distant two or three miles, are the only objects common to Farewell summit and Wanganui Harbour. Distant objects were not easily seen. Just as we were about to descend the hill Mount Egmont showed out very plainly. The wind was so high, and the fact of the theolodite I was using not working truly, I was obliged to content myself by taking the necessary angles with a pocket sextant. Endeavouring to make the theolodite available caused the loss of much time, so that darkness had begun to set in before we reached the boat.

An old colonist, whose memeory was stirred bv the meeting of the Pilgrims’ Association last Saturdays, says that she has a vivid recollection of the first postmaster at Lyttelton, one Howard. He had a violent temper, and on occasions when the girls went in for letters, he would jump down their throats. She also remembered a Mr Eade. who lived in London Street next to Dr Guthrie’s. His memory survives on account of the fact that he owned a gander that was the terror of everybody in the neighbourhood. Eventually he was brovtght before the Magistrate and ordered to destroy the gander. “Victory” writes:—“Re the photo of High Street. I remember the corner shOp when Mr PerOy had a boot shop, and next was “Pooles,” baker and confectioner. I also remember a man coming out of one of the doors in Hereford Street and emptying a bucket of water and tea leaves into the ditch, and I remember Mr Fisher, the grocer, always wore a bell-topper and frock coat. j do so look forward to Saturday’s ‘Star.’ ”