Dresses of the Week

Star (Christchurch), Issue 17169, 12 October 1923, Page 9

Dresses of the Week

Written by

“STELLA "

side, which shows a. satin effect, and is used combined, ro that- both sides show the tone, making a trimming for the other. Crepe Juliette is another new fabric. This is after the style of remain, but is lighter in -weight. By the way. when upon the subjectof skirts, the fact that hip yokes are once more being worn should have been mentioned. They are* in many shapes and styles, but are undoubtedly hip yokes. They a^e.used to give the tight, clinging appearance round the hips that- the Egyptian modes demand. The latest word from Paris is that the Egyptian influence is waning. It has been rather overdone, and often badly done, which ha. sealed its doom. One cannot, mix styles and periods when handling the Egyptian line, but this is what too many people have done, and so have brought the whole thing into discredit among the best dressers and the leading coutouriers, who have a vowed an' intention not to resort- to Egyptian inspiration for thmr coming modes. Sleeves are receiving n lot of attention just now, and very often they are tho sole part of a frock t-o be trimmed, Many sleeves are made of two fabric? and eve;* three, and all of them contrast with the frock itself. Bishop sleeves of georgette or other flimsy material are gathered into a very deep cuff, tightly fitting, which in turn is trimmed with tassels or buttons and finished with a finely-pleated frill falling over the hand. Kimono sleeves seem t-o have entirely disappeared: every frock, coat, blouse or jumper has a set-in- sleeve nowadays, and smaller armholes are seen which will not. add to our comfort. Tho sleeves of tailored coats, particularly show the tight armhole,, and very often

AYord comes from Paris that the plain, straight bodices, quite untriinmedj are allied to skirts which are long and full, and upon which all the trimming is set. This is especially the case for evening dress, the last, Tho corsage is Kept as plain, even severe in line, ns possible, the only concession in the way of trimming being an occasional berthe, which softens and partly covers the line of the top of the uppe« arm, while the skirts are quite elaborately embroidered generally with beads or bugles, or trimmed. Tho apron effect Is very popular, and many of these are contrived to give n narrow appearance, while actually there is plenty of room as the underskirt is full. But the apron is so weighted down- by its embroidery that it- hangs in a clinging fashion and gives the illusion of narrowness.The effort to make green popular has not succeeded, especially amongst English women. The fashion designers blame superstition for it. but the more thoughtful fashion scribes point out. that it is more likely the fact that green is difficult to wear becomingly, j tor, as a matter of fact , it is not by any means universalJj becoming. Eau de nil has taken very much both for evening attire and for summer frocks, but the darker shades, except the intense metallic Egyptian green, or peacock green, have not enjoyed the popularity anticipated by the manufacturer?. Dahlia colour is one of the new shades that has proved popular in Paris. This is deeper than rose pink, and has a, purple tinge in the folds. It is decidedly effective Among new materials crepe ziugara has won popularity. It has a reversible

afternoon frocks conform to the can: idea. Social evenings and dances during th week have provided an opportunity fe noticing .some pretty evening frocks A smart gown of black souple sati uas light';, beaded on tho hack of th corsage with jet and jade green bead: Long, tighcly-fitting sleeves ot' C’ha: tilly lace formed the sleeves, and touch' of colour was introduced by cluster of petunias at the waist. The beauty of the- simple cord© frock was exemplified inf« dainty gov. worn by a slim dark girl. Ii was •- silver and blue shoe taffetas, the cm sage tight-fitting, with latticed sle+rv and the long skirt was corded throng! out its entire length. The cording ga.-. a quaint bouffant effect to the frocl j A pretty fair-haired matron, who always noted for her exquisite dress in' ap[seared in a gown of mole velve gracefully draped and caught on eac hip with a handsome paste or tinmen The corsage was simply cut in a squat decoll-etage, and the sleeves, whit came to the elbow, were slit up alraoto the shoulder, the edges being finish© with a frilling of dainty lace. Another gown of coral pink satin w; qua in tv and prettily trimmed wit graduated row's of opal ascent, sequin and was finished with a girdla < iuehsia-tinted leaves. Black souple satin showed to grea est advantage in an unusually preti frock worn by a very fair young gir The skirt was cut in many flounce each flounce scalloped and wired at ti edge. Both the simple swathed bodic and th© skirt were heavily ombroi ered in sequins, the only touch < colour being a crushed gold rose at ti waist.