THE GARDEN.

Star (Christchurch), Issue 17032, 4 May 1923, Page 8

THE GARDEN.

HELP AND HINTS FOR AMATEURS. KITCHEN GARDEN. Seeds to Sow.—Broad beans, carrots, peas. What to Plant.--Cabbage, cauliflower, horse radish. ' Potatoes should be lifted as soon as possible, and great care should be given to picking them up. All that show the slightest suggestion of disease should be put. aside to** immediate use, and only sound tubers put in the store. Leek*.—Draw some soil up to their stems, to bleach them. Dig or trench all vacant pieces ot ground as soon as possible, throwing the soil up as rough as possible, to expose as big a surface to the weather a« possible. If the soil is on the heavy side lay it up in ridges. The action of frost, wind, sun and ram will make, the soil sweeter, more friable, and much more profitable. The heav\ quarters should be turned up first. Onions.—All bulbs that are quite sound and thoroughly ripe should be graded, tied into ropes or strings, and hung in a cool frost proof shed. Frost will not injure those that are quite ripe, but it is best if possible to store them away from its reach. Don’t dig parsnips until they ate wanted. They are oust if taken up as required. Winter Spinach.—Make a sowing of this useful vegetable now. It may come in when green vegetables are very scarce. Put the sowing in a well drained piece of ground and thin the seedling plants as roon as they are big enough to'hand]». If there are any large pumpkins or vegetable marrow's in the open get them into a cool shed, and they will keep good until they are wanted. HARDY FRUITS. Examine all fruits in store, and remove those that are specked or bruised. These should be used as soon as possible. If they are left to rot, one cannot estimate how many good fruits may be wasted. Examining fruit* is work that needs great care, and some experience, for if some large specimens are handled roughly the\ will gradually decay and become useless. Planting.—This work should be done as soon as possible. Unfortunately too many trees are transplanted too "late, and they do not make a satisfactory recovery during the first season. Small yearlings suffer much less than trees that are from three to five years old. Therefore, aH big specimens should be transplanted early in the planting season. Gooseberries and currants may be trasplanted any time from now on These plants make a lot of roots during the winter. In selecting positions for these bush fruits, put black currants in the dampest position and the gooseberries in the driest. If the roots of a gooseberry plant are inundated for a short time in the winter the chances are that it will die. RASPBERRIES. The leaves have nearly all fallen from these plants, and the beds will receive their autumnal attention. I would remind readers that this is a surface rooting plant, and many of its roots are destroyed by digging between the plants. Digging is destructive. The plants must make good the losses they suffer before they can develop and mature good fruits. Don’t dig between the plants. Remove all useless material with a strong hoe, and then give a liberal dressing of manure. Don’t stint this; give plenty, and let it be good. FLOWER GARDEN. Falling leaves are troublesome, but they will soon be down. Collect and store as many as possible. Leaf mould is so valuable for all plants, and being their natural food, nothing can be better for them. Therefore, save as many a s can lie obtained. If space is limited, make a small pit and put the leaves in this as they are collected. When all have been gathered up put several inches of soil on them to prevent them front blowing about. A cucumber or a marrow plant could be grown on the leaves during next summer, while they are turning into leal mould. Grass seeds sown this autumn have come away well. Do not spoil these j young plants by putting a too heavy roller over them, crushing the plants irto the soil making this as hard as possible. The wee plants should be relied with a light roller to gently pres 6 the base of the plants into the soil. Don’t use a heavy roller until spring, when the plants will have sent their roots deep into the soil, and c»Jn suffer the heavy weight without injury. Probably more harm is done by indiscriminate rolling soon after the grass plants are just above the surface than by any other act. The season has arrived for planting roses, and a few remarks on choosing roses may be useful. When one is planting several hundred bushes, they can risk a few that are not well known, but where the number is limited to a dozen or two, every one should be a success. Unfortunately catalogues do not assist by pointing out the defects or shortcomings oi new varieties, and it is as well to leave new varieties alone until their merits have been proved. The first question to decide is the purpose for which the roses are wanted. Then seek the assistance of someotie in the locality to make a list of suit-bale varieties that will give what is desired. Successful rose growing must follow good preparation. It is not » wise to purchase a rose bush and put it into a mixed border, where strong growing plants will more or less smother it. Failure is sure to follow such an unwise act. To get the best possible results roses should have a bed to themselves, in a" position open to the. early sunrise and evening sun. The only period of shade should be in the middle or hottest part of the day. The soil should be on the heavy side. If it is light, add some heavy soil and make it firm about the roots.