Dresses of the Week

Star (Christchurch), Issue 17032, 4 May 1923, Page 4

Dresses of the Week

Written by “STELLA”

rusts and the full-toned apricot from sunset yellows, flame, and deep sand colour t-o the red tones. All these colourings are of the deep, full tones, curiously enough at the other extreme of the newest and most exclusive fabrics, which show tones so* faint and pastel-like that they are hard to define. A lavender which can scarcely be distinguished from palest pearl grey, or pearl white, save only in the folds. A blue that is only one tone from chalk white or an illusiVe silver grey, and a pink that really only blushes in the depths of the folds, and might be white or silver, taking a shade of cosiness from the lights. These are. however, all new colours for evening wear. There is a dead white, too, that is new. It is peculiarly dense and lustreless, and it is almost impossible to think of anything with which to compare it, as it is not at- all of the chalk tone. The dull silks are coming in again, moire, corded and the betigaline makes. These are not for the clinging Egyptian mode of dress, but for the more bouffant styles inspired by the \ T ictorian models, which are sent forth by the rival schools of designers. The flat tuck is going to be a very decided feature of the winter fashion. It is described as a tuck, but very often it is a fold that is stitched on. Skirts are trimmed with them in many unusual ways. They rarely go round just plainly ; more often they follow a curved-up course, growing narrower as they rise. That is, the top tuck will be fairly low down on one side, and will curve upwards across the front and the back, .growing at the same time appreciably narrower. Sometimes they are diagonally at the sides only : again they are only across the back or tinfront width. .They ma( edge the skirt in two narnow folds or tucks, or they may cover it from the hem to the thighs. The lower part of the sleeves, especially when they bell,- or flare out- arc often bordered with several rows or tucks or folds. Ipdeed. in. some of the newest models, this tuck effect is attained by a single thickness of the material, not. even folded, but cut on the cross, and stretched a little to make it curve properly. In this case it is always of doth, or some firm fabric, which will not fray, and therefore does not need hemming. Rivalling the tucks or folds arc the rows of piping or cording which are now used a-s trimming in so many ways. One of the smartest evening frocks for a girl had the full skirt edged with two rows of this piping or cording, and the little sleeves were also piped. It is used as a waist finish, sometimes all round, sometimes only at the sides. Rows of small tucks or nullings are used in the same way. especially to give

a certain little lift t-o the material in the draped frocks, when the rows of tucking are placed on the hip from back to front. It gives just the spring that is needed to prevent the material being drawn too closely to the form. It is one of the difficulties in making the draped dresses that they are apt to cling so closely that they drag uncomfortably when the wear walks, and tend to ride up in rather an embaransing fashion. Therefore some device to raise the material on the hips, or catch it up somewhere across the front is adopted. Knitted and rough woollen suits are very much in favour at- present, an in ere a singly large number being seen 0,. the streets ami at all the race meetings. Very simply made, most of them rely on colour for attraction. A particularly becoming one seen during the week- was of a blue and grey mixture, the bottom of the coat and skirt being patterned with navy blue irr a lnrg* check design. Gracefully conservative in cut. with i deep collar and a coatee effect in black chequers, a. costume of rich reseda rejoiced in a new sleeve in the shape oi double cuffs. The skirt fastened dowi the left side with large black buttons Then there was the shoulder fastening clasp of black jet, and step folds at th waist. Fine black crinoline sfcravi close-fitting, with outstanding wingand an ornamental pin, comprised tin , hot. Autumn has brought new smart nos t-o the Avofld of coats, and one of tic prettiest of the season's inventions w i in light fawn camel cloth with the hi I adjustable collar, so dear to women winter, and bands of darker shade cur cloth at the cuffs and waistline. That one can appear si indy gown and yet wear puffs was proved at recent dance by a gown of softly dr a; ivory crepe satin, li fell quite strand from shoulder to hern, and was th caught up into a big puff at the bio. leaving the hem line long at o side and drawn up cn the other. The tendency of the new waistline '■ be anywhere but at the waist Was clear lv illustrated by another evening gow> this time in lemon shade. Satin be©d were traced by skilful fingers over tin background of fine crepe do chine, an the slender line was retained de*pi' * the quaint, hip-low. stuffed girdle lemon and silver. fact and’each enhancing, the beauty / the other., were blended in an exqnjs” evening gown. Ivory satin comprbili© sheath-like underdress. and she! pink and ivory traced the delics? lace overdrape, brought over the rigli shoulder and caught on the leii hi with diamante links, the loose ha-’ piece forming a short train.