THE GARDEN
Help and Hints fur Amateurs
Seeds to Sow. —Cabbage, oa-rrot, lettuce. onion, spinach, turnip. What to Plant.—Cabbage, cauliflower, lettuce. Tomatoes in the open, although rather later than usual, have doao well. Heavy crops have been secured where the plants had received ordinary attention. Remove all fruits as soon as they begin to colour. Every fruit removed relieves the plant of some of its work, and those that are swelling will develop taster. Where seed is to oe saved, select good fruit, true to typo and sound in every way. Remove all decaying leaves from .Brussels sprouts. If these are left on the plants, they attract slugs. Cut marrows and pumpkins as soon a- they art* ripe. If left on the ground too long, the part that is in contact with the soil will begin to rot. Attend to root crops. Carrots that hi vo finished their growth should be taken up. If left in the ground, many will split and become useless. Root that has grown to a fair size should be lifted with great care, to that no part of the root is broken. FLOWER GARDEN. Carnations that weie layered Li January should be ready for transplanting. Handle the young plants with great care, for a little rough usage may
destroy most of the roots. If the groun i i- well drained, set the plants in their flowering quarters at once, but should the position be low and very wet during the winter months put the plants in pots for the winter and set them out in the spring. Young carnations will not thrive in very wet soil during the winter. Young plants from seed that ■was sown in February are doing well. They need watching. vermin are very fond of these young, tender plants, and if left to slugs, earwigs, wood-lice, etc., very few will survive the attentions of these pests Many herbaceous plants are getting past their best, but do not be in a hurry to cut off the current seasons growth. This is a cruel practice, ani
it is impossible to tell how much harm tlie plants suffer from it. Just remove the decaying blossoms, retaining the leaves and stems to perform their natural functions. Violas.—This is a good time to put in a batch of cuttings. If young uiifloivered shoots are available, ther make the best cuttings. Put them in boxes filled with light sandy soil, and place the box, on the south side of a fence or wall. Damp them overhead after a hot day, but don’t keep them too wet. There arc many other cuttings that should be taken and put in to provide Us stock of plants for next season. Get those you require as soon as possible. GREENHOUSE. We must expect seme cold night', any time from now on. Therefore, all tender plants that have been outside
for the summer should be removed to some frost-proof position as soon as possible before their tender tips are frosted. Many plants perish during the winter from this cause. It is the first severe frost that does the greatest harm. If w? had no severe frosts until the end of May the plants would suffer very little harm, because their shoots would gradually have become bard and inured to the cold. Rut a stiff frost on the tender shoots is often fatal. Daffodils for Forcing.——Few spring bowers give more pleasing results when grown in pots or boxes than daffodils. This result was obtained long since, when there were few really-good varie- ! ties suitable for forcing ; but now there I are so many beautiful varieties to | select from and the new varieties that, j are annually placed on the market art; ' almost too numerous to keep in one's | memory. Some varieties are mere j suitable than others. Habit, foliage, 1 lasting qualities should be, considered j when making a selection. Those two j good old varieties. Emperor and Em- ! press, are splendid for pot culture, hav- | ing good stiff foliage and large bold blossoms that last a long time. They ! are very useful for decorations in the conservatory, the verandah, or the ; house. These bulbs do not respond I to hard forcing. If subjected to a ; high temperature both flowers and • foliage grow very long, weak and I brittle. Good foliage is just as neces_ j sary as good flowers, and the only way J to secure good foliage is to keep the plants in a low temperature until the buds arc showing among the leaves. When the plants are put in a warmer house they should be stood quite near the glass and given plenty of ventilation. Pot the bulbs as early as possible to give them a long season in order to make plenty of roots. If cut flowers in quantity are required put the bulb-s in boxes four inches deep, and put the boxes quite close together. If pots are used, their
sizes must lie determined by the purpose for which the plants are required. If. for inside decorations the size of bowl or jardiniers should lie the guide. Five and six-inch pots are the most suitable. Daffodils are not fastidious in regard to soil. They will grow in any : soil il they can obtain enough raois- ; t-iu-e. but if potted in a. compost of I good rotted turf, leaf mould, and a ! little sharp sand, they will give the ; best results.' After the bulbs are potted, stand them on a level surface | and cover them with six inches of j ashes, sand, or soil. This is to keep 1 the bulbs in position without any I weight ou them. Their strong roots : will lift many of the bulbs above the I surface of the soil. j Keep constant watch over the cutj tings in pots, boxes, and frames. Give them plenty of fresh air early in the ] morning and promptly remove every decaying leal. When leaves die they soon begin to rot. and cause “ damping oft ” among all that are nearbv.
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Bibliographic details
Star (Christchurch), Issue 16986, 9 March 1923, Page 3
Word Count
1,002THE GARDEN Star (Christchurch), Issue 16986, 9 March 1923, Page 3
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