Dresses of the Week

Star (Christchurch), Issue 16845, 22 September 1922, Page 10

Dresses of the Week

The outstanding feature of the new j •spring fashions is the uniformity of | • line seen in all the frocks; they are, j almost without exception, cut in the . one-piece “ chemise ” style—as far as foundation is concerned —and then J elaborated according to fancy. There | were such numbers of these frocks i worn last summer that one almost expected a change in design this season; j but apparently there is no need to look further afield for other types, for j the “ chemise frock ”is the one and { only ” model that need call for our j attention. For novelty aud iudivid- > uality we shall have to rely on the j methods of trimming and tho judicious i use of materials to achieve uncommon j effects. The choice of summer fabrics is al- j most unlimited, and prices are oer- J tainlv easier than they were last year, ! so that tho average girl can be well ‘ dressed at a comparatively low cost, ] and there is no longer the need to haveonly one or two new frocks in the season for the cost of material for a washing frock need not exceed ten or twelve shillings The newest floral voiles, with a design which looks almost like bead work, are very popular ■ so arc the ratines or sponge cloths, mostly seen in blue and white or black and white stripes or large checks There is a decided preference for grey in this year’s fashions, and, a.s a colour it is very quiet and “ femi- . nine.” but one must he very careful what shade of grey one chooses, for sometime*, there ore tints of mauve pink iu it that will he disastrous to seme complexions. The best grey is really grey all through—a tone which i does not change in artificial light : Slato grev suits women with dark grey ! eyes. but the brown-eyed woman j should never wear it. There are many I aud varied materials, such as hopsac, : whipcord, gabardine and silk alpaca, 1 which are ideal for spring coats and [ skirts; while for dainty frocks nothing can be prettier than grey georgette shantung, silk crepe, foulard or ninou. There are many grey and white striped materials, too, which are very effective, such as a grey and white striped ninon made up over palo grey. A grey and white striped summer cloth or whip cord for a coat and skirt, or grey and white muslin for n simple summer frock. Biscuit is another colour that is to be much worn this summer, and will b© welcomed by those who cannot wear grey ; it tones so well with the darker shades of colour, such as olive green, red, black and henna. Crepe de chine of a heavy make, twill, silk, crepe, muslin, and foulard are all satisfactory materials, and where the groundwork is biscuit colour and the design a brighter one, some very fascinating results can be obtained. Nothing looks cooler or more suitable for summer wear than a biscuit! muslin or silk frock with slight, touches of black. Very .springlike was a frock of hue lemon yellow muslin, completely worked in Broderie A rig! a iso. It was gathered into the waist with several rows of ruching, and the bodice was slightly gathered. There were tiny tucks on each shoulder and the elbow-length sleeves were also composed of embroidery. Tlie hat to match was lemon yellow, too, in crochet straw, with a sash of satin ribbon drawn into a bow in front, the brim being softly upturned at the back. Light tan ratine made a cool-looking spring frock. It, was made on long, straight lines, with ft slight gathering on the hips, and the front, opening to the waist, was fastened with a row of white bone buttons and crocheted but-ton-loops. The whole froc-k was eyeletembroidered in white in panels, the narrow belt and top of the hem being treated in the same manner. Tlie elbow-length sleeves wore also worked and the hat was of gold coloured allover plait, with wide sides, the under

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"STELA"

brim lined with crepe de chine in the same tone. Jt was finished with a hand some wreath of vari-coloured fruit. Crepe de chine will be a very popular material for late spring and summer : One. noticed during the week, was of a soft ivory shade, patterned in a futurist design in jade green and black. The bodice was plain, with veryshort sleevbs and the skirt had a flared | overdress cominpr to pointed draperies on the hips. The girdle was of jade and cerise plaited raffia, ornamented i with rosettes of the same material. • A touch of originality was lent to «i • coat and skirt in a fine navy gabardine, j by the addition of loose double side panels on the coat. These were picotedged, loosely draped, and came to a i point an inch or so below the coat hem ! The sleeves were long and rather tight. I finished with a narrow band of mustard f yellow cloth, the flat collar being also « finished in this manner. Tlie narrow | licit, which passed under the ride panS els. had a centre line of yellow and it fastened in front with a blue hone buckle. The hem of the coat, which was of medium length, composed of ;v band of yellow cloth. The skirt was perfectly plain and the accompanving hat was a cloche with a crown of black '•ire ribbon, and a brim of chrysanthemum straw. The under brim was ’ : ned with the eire ribbon and th? sharply upturned back was finished a double aeroplane be / of the same. A costume in a deep shade of violet • consisted of a handsomely braided coat I opening over a vest of Oriental''patterned satin, ami a skirt with four loose panels, also braided, which came coneiderablv below the hem of the skirt proper. The wearer’s hat was a small shape in cinnamon brown straw with a wreath of French flowers and draped with a black lace veil. Tobacco brown was the colour chosen for a smart costume in gabardine, ihe coat was long, with a low waist line and a. flaring basque. Tlie waistline was marked by a line of white, where the material was cut away to show a piping of white gabardine. This line ran straight across the rather plain back of the coat, and dipped lower in front, where it ended in a I -shaped panel, inset with four brown bone buttons. The wide rovers to the collar were ornamented in the same way and the cuffs were also piped with white. With it was worn a capeline of black embroidered crinoline straw, with a crown snsh of black satin ribbon, and a. large flower, in shades varying from rose to heliotrope, dropped on ihe brim edge. For days, when winter's wind can still be felt, the ideal wear was a woollen suit in a mixed cinnamon brown and white knit. The straight little sneque coat was bordered with golden brown, the Lont revers being also edged in this shade. Hie only fastening to the coat was one large hope button to tone with the costume. The coat pockets and the hem of xhe straight skirt were also treated with the golden brown shade. The hat was of the little knitted pull-on type to match, draped to the right side and finished with a heavy tassel. A costume in gabardine. ,of a pretty pearl grey shade was mane with a long coat, flared on the-diips, and two wide flat pockets in front, fastened with a large grey bone button. The sleeves were very wide with cape shaped cuffs, and the skirt was plain, all the ornamentation being placed on the coat. The hat was a capeline in black crinoline straw- with a transparent brim of corded lace, wreathed with pretty French flowers and finished at the back with a flat satin bow. The long coat, so fashionable some months ago and temporarily out of favour, is returning in the newest spring models. A costume in this style was of tete-de-negre facecloth, the • flaring basque of the coat gathered on

the hips and striped with three ftw of braid, leaving the back perfectly plain. The wide flat collar was finished with two rows of silk braid, set on crosswise, and the coat was fastened with two groups of very heavy squarecut buttons. The hat was a turneddown shape in henna satin, with a fawn underbrim- It was ent away at the back and finished with a spray of fruit and leaves. Grey was the colour utilised in a coat and skirt in fine gabardine. .Hie long coat was fairly straight to the low waist, where it became a flaring basque. Just above the waistline were placed three short rows of royal blue braid, stitched on crosswise and studded with small white bone buttons. Two loose side panels were liue-d with gold and blue shot satin, and had little crescent shaped pockets inserted. Tlie collar was braided in bine and the coat fastened with two lafge whit© buttons, the hell-shaped sleeves having turned hack cuffs. The wearer’s hat was a Katinka shape in powder blue crepe de chine with a deep-folded crown, finished with a band of satin ribbon and the upturned, wide brim was patterned in futurist roses in gold tissue. Navy blue will always hold its own as the colour for smart wear in coats and skirts. A oostume in this colour in gabardine consisted of a coat mode with a long pouched bodice gathered into a very wide belt at the back. Tho belt commenced at the right side of the back panel, being ornamented there with a row of black bone buttons, and, crossed to the front. It was loosely tied at the left side. One side of the ooat front was quite plain, the other belt end being attached to the edge of tho front rever. The belt was lined with silk in vivid orange and black stripes, and made a brilliant splash of colour when loosely tied, the ends being allowed to hang free. The sleeves were plain and narrow, the collar could be worn either open or closed, and the hat was a carveline in navy crinoline straw wreathed with a spray of autumn leaves terminating in a large ceil-blu© flower. A charming reception gown was aha nd worked French model in powderblue georgette. The sole ornamentation was innumerable rows of tiny tucks, and the dress was worn over an underdress of cherry crepe de chine, the georgette being slashed at one sido from hem to hip to show the vivid underlining. The waist was defined by a girdle of linked steel, and the hat chosen wa« a small shape with a black corded satin crown and a transparent brim of ra.dinm lace. It was finished with a big rosette of lace placed on tho crown in the front and centred with a small French posy A dainty white voile frock was made long-waisted, the bodice being covered with embroidery in a lacy flower design in black thread, and the waist line was defined by a. row of heavy bladk pear-shaped buttons. The hem of the slightly full akirt and the narrow side panels were also embroidered. The sleeves were very smart, with a deep arm hole reaching from waist to shoulder, a, row of embroidery being inserted on the shoulder. A string of handsome black Rnd white glass bead?, cut diamond-shaped, was worn round the throat, and the hat was a. katinka shape in flame coloured crepe de chine, with a soft, folded crown and a wide brim adorned with rosettes of rucheci flame and silver ribbon. A street frock in rose pink ratine was handsomely embroidered is ivory bone beads. It was mad© on simple lines, the waist defined by a loose, headed belt, and the short sleeves were also beaded. The hat was a wide trimmed shape in rose crepe de chine, tho transparent brim of georgette beiug finished with double rows of ruched white and rooe eire ribbon, picot edged.