THE GARDEN.

Star (Christchurch), Issue 12755, 26 September 1919, Page 4

THE GARDEN.

WORK FOR THE WSSK. tqtchex DARDENSEEDS TO SOW. Beans, beet, broccoli. Ermseki sprouts, carrots. cabbage, cauliflower, celery, cress, cucumber, lec-k, lettuce, parsley. parsnip, peas, onion, spinach.. turnip, tomato. WE AT TO PLANT. Artichoke, asparagus, chive?, garlic, herb?., horse-radish, potatoes, rhubarb. WHAT TO DO. Keep vlie culf.iv.-i tor busy when the surface soil is dry enough for hoeing It is quite Ete enough for Transplanting tiie summer rhubarb, but the winter varieties should ret be overlooked and forgotten during the busy spring season- These ro»:-tr> may he transplanted any time up till the end of October, but. they should be in their final quarters by that elate. It- is strange that so many fail to plant winter rhubarb until the autumn, and then wonder why the plants do not produce many good stalks. The reason is easily understood. Unless the plants have rad a season to establish themselves ir. tleir new quarters it is impossible for them to produce a full crop of good stalks. In'regard to position, select a well-drained, warm site, facing north. Break the ground up. quite thirty inches deep. If there are any large stones in the soil remove them, or put them at the bottom of. each trench. Manure liberally. If the soil is heavy use light stable manure and if the ground is oh the light side try and get some cow manure, which is better than stable manure for light soil. Big plants are not necessary. Small ones arc much better and give better results. When large foots are planted they are a long time getting over the removal, whereas young, small roots, 6r cro'.vns, come away at once, and by autumn make strong plant-, and give, a good supply all through the winter. This rhubarb is recommended to he grown by every one who has a, garden. It" supplies fruit all through the winter, when apples are scarce aid expensive.

Parsley.-—A constant supply of large, 1 well curled parsley is appreciated T)y everyone, but bow fey gardens produce. this good sample regularly. To obtain good parsley, make a small sowing every spring. Select an open posi*ion, along the garden path, make the soil fairly neb. and sow the seeds spar-1 Lagiv. Corer them with a. little fine soil, say a quarter of am inch- “When tbe seedlings have formed tbe third ! leaf, t.bin them out 1 erring the TTPO j plants inches apart. Rsmem-) her, ibis is tbe minimum; if anything. J it is too little, fifteen or eighteen inches I being none too much, especially when 1 one remembers that a strong plant wTH i tive leaves twelve to fifteen inches i long. When the- plants are crowded ! the leaves must be small, and they can- i not lie well curled. Horticultural so-1 ciot-ies should include a class for i{ six ; leaves of parsley 1 in their schedule oil prizes. Competitors would soon find ■ out wha.t splendid, fern-like parsley could be grown by giving the plants a little more generous treatment. A well-grown plant of parsley is quite as handsome as any one of tho crested ferns. FLOWER GARDEN. Most gardens are bright with nar- i cissi, even the small cottage gardens.i These bright, golden gems of spring are now seen growing to perfectionThe number of new varieties introduced every season is becoming rather bewildering, making It difficult for one to keep abreast of their differing attri-i butes. Many of tbe newer varieties are on the big side, tending more to coarseness than to refinement. This is very noticeable in the trumpet varieties. in which section ‘'Emperor,’’ al- 1 though one of the old varieties, is still i ono of the best of the yellow trumpets, i “ King Alfred” is a. better variety J where it will grow, but it is not a. suc-1 cess in every garden. The “ red cups” j are increasing in number, but the deep! colour is very “ fugitive ” in many. The j longer stems of several new varieties make them much more effective for decora five work.' This is the time while they are in flower, to make a selection of new varieties to add to one’s collection. The description in a. catalogue is not always a safe Or satisfactory guide. Ike flowers themselves are better, as in them one can note the colour, texture. length of stem, poise of bloom and size. New Zealand growers are to be congratulated upon the. success they have achieved in raising so many first-class seedlings. A number of those are among the best that- bare been exhibited in Christchurch. When they are put on the market the competition foy them will no doubt- lib ]c<^r»ll. Roses—ln many gardens mses have been severely frosted- Probably they have suffered more from the late frosts this season than one can realise. Tho;-e growers who were late in pruning their hushes are fortunate, for they will have a good first crop of blossoms; but those who pruned early will have cause to deplore the effects of the September frosts. Examine the bushes and cut away nil tho growth that is blackened by the frost. Flower seeds that were sown early should be examined to make sure they are alive- If they have been destroyed make another sowing at once. Examine rockery plants. The snow injured many of these and killed others. Cutaway the broken and frosted parts, and loosen the soil with a small hand fork. Prune all flowering shrubs immediately after the season’s blossoms fade. THE GREENHOUSE. Don’t be in a. linrry to pub half hardy plants in the open. There are indications that more frosts will occur; therefore, keep the plants in a place of safety for another week or two. Some of the hardier bedding plants should go outside,; but they should l*e covered at night, or put, in some position that is safe against frost- These plants are rather tender yet, and a few degrees of frost would severely harm themWbat water is required should be given early in the morning so that all surplus moisture can get away long before night.