FASHIONLAND.

Star (Christchurch), Issue 10683, 1 February 1913, Page 4

FASHIONLAND.

[From Our L.tnr Correspondent.] LONDON, December 14. What sort of a scene London streets, within hailing distance of Christmas, will present in a few years, it is bewildering even to imagine, for each year seos a greater crowd and each year, consequently, a smaller space. Tho Christinas spirit comes to tho shops, and it is interesting, too, to note lu>w the shops como to the Christmas spirit, by marking, ovary possible and impossible thing, " Suitable "for a Christmas gift!" Even coats and skirts come under this, and whoever 'heard of a person desirous of giving a present of this, value, thinking of a coat and skirt, and especially a coat and skirt decked out with little Yule-tide touches as if it were a box of handkerchiefs or sweets! No matter. There's something rather tender in tho appearance of a quite solemn umbrella tied into its box with bows of bright red ribbon. Would you be a fashionable laftv then you must abroad in a long coat of a now black material rather like caracul, but smoother and more shiny, with a beautiful shadowy sheen like that which follows the wind's course over ripe corn. Only in b'.~ck aro these so far. Long flat fur stoles are being worn in extraordinary and very clumsy fashion now—round the shoulders, crossed in front and with one t-'/id passed right' round tho hack of the hips and to the front again. Frills of lace in white or cream, with a sort of backbone of dark fur, trim many of the new dark plush or satin beaver hats. Very little woolly beaver is seen, though there are a few small tricornes exhibited. Brussels sprout feathers grow in favour, and now can be had in many colours besides the green in which they started their ugly life. The newest veils are of thin, open net with a unique design, such as one large ivy leaf, about the centre, and no other ornamentation. Separate trains from the waist only, and of gold or silver lace, are new ideas. They are generally bunched up to form a sort of bow above the waist belt. Veil pockets are little silk envelopes, destined for presents, with, inside, a veil of fino fibre which can bo packed into a quite tiny space. Flower ties gain in favour, and among tho small gifts this. season are all manner of dainty posies in silk rosebuds and cowslips, mounted on buckram with a safety-pin attachment. Gloves, which hitherto have been content to keep to unexciting limits, now are breaking out in several original ways. Long kid gloves for . evening wear have patterns pricked into tho arms, and white silk ones sport painted designs, while the gauntlets of both white kid and wool gloves are of bright or delicate shades. "White woollen gloves with turned back gauntlets of 1 coloured knitted silli are both stylish and warm. On collarless gowns the latest idea has a high art effect, for 011 a plain rough brown sers;e indoor dress, for instance, there will appear a Peter Pan collar of accordion-pleated ninon in emerald-green edged again with navy. The result is by 110 means ifnpleasiug, and would be very piquant on a darkhaired girl cf warm colouring. „ Broche gauze the material described last week/ 1 that appeared to be velvet brocade on ninon is an ideal medium for an evening gown, whether for an old. middle-aged "or young wearer, and even a white-haired lady could. wear pure white in this loveliness without appearing ridiculous. One particularly effective gown —this for any age if the colouring is right—of this week was of pure white, the velvet on the gauze appearing like flakes of snow just fallen. From'tho corsage downwards the dress appeared to be made in one, very gracefully draped. bodies at the top was of pleated white silk tulle, r.r.d the only other trimming appearing on the sleeves or down one side of the bodice and skirt was white swansdown. Single earrings, such as used to be worn by nten, who chose a very precious jewel, are being sported by smart women now. A dressmaking hint that may not be new to some, but that is infallible, is wall worth knowing. It is a method that can be carried . out by oneself, though it must be confessed that this is not nearly bo easy us if a second person did it. It should be said first that a good standard is to make walking skirts clear the ground by thrco inches, evening dresses by an inch or an inch and it halt, and sport skirts by quite four inches. When all but the hem is complete fit the skirt on, and fasten it at tho waist and plaquot. Then take a yard stick, place one end on tho iloo;, pressing it against the skirt; then at

the top where tho stick touches the skirt niako a faint innrk with a piec* of tailor's chalk. Repeat this nl! round the skirt, nncl from these points measure downwards towards the hem, marking it tlio lougUi you desire. 'W.i can then turn th." hem up at those marks and be sure it is exactly oven nt the bottom. Some dressmakers advise hanging up for a time a skirl after everything is finished but tlio ;iem, so that any gathers or pleats drop as much as they will do.

'This article should reach New Zea!nv>d in midsummer, when rosea are plentiful, and some fortunate possessor of u garden may like to know how to make nttarof roses--not_ so drcn<hully diiticiilt as imagined. 'ihe petals are rot: dried :n < hj« sun as for pot pourri, but nre dropped frcsli (picked if pos-r-ibh' carlv on a hoi morning) into pure tilc-ohol. which should be obtained from a. chemist Allow ten ounces of spirit to every ounce of rose leaves, and lent o the petals m the liquid for two days. The "alcohol should then be strained, the leaves squeezed, and a f re.--h supply ot petals added. This must be repeated daily for a month. At the end of that time the attar merely requires to bo strained through paper and bottled. It may be necessary from, time to time to add a little fiesli spiiii', but don't do this if pcssiblo, as it ot course weakens the perfume.