FASHIONLAND.

Star (Christchurch), Issue 10536, 10 August 1912, Page 4

FASHIONLAND.

rFnoii Ouir. Lady Correspondent.] LONDON, Juno 21

As wiseacres foretold at their birth, shot silks have speedily lived out their life and now are killed by their own popularity. They appear still in shop windows, though in small numbers, and, very, occasionally, in the street, but not worn by any up-to-date individuals.

In that they are being worn ad nauBeam, bowler and top hat 3 for ladies are now as bad as shot silk gowns. These show generally, in whatever colour the straw, only a broad white band terminating in a flat bow round the crown and an osprey or tulle mount. ..Mustard colour, so popular early in flie season, has almost disappeared save in footgear. The newest boots with patent leather goloshes have mustard suede tops. , Tulle, in great masses, bows arid billows, ruches and mounts, is the only trimming on some very largo hats. One-sided paniers appear in some of the newest evening gowns, and are not so incongruous as they sound. One seen this week was all black, the foundation being of beautifully .draped dull eilk. Over the left hip and down to the foot of the train the beaded tunic of the bodice was continued, while at the back arid just reaching to the right hip was a slight panier.

There seems little doubt that beads and beaded ornaments are returning to favour for evening dresses. Collars of folded tulle with an outstanding bow at the back are often to be seen now with evening dress. They are v for the long-necked Woman, though a 'too thin neck will always be enhanced by their softness.

Aeroplano corsets are the very latest invention, and seem to bring aviation for ladies down to an intimacy that is unexpected, even though there is to be a special ladies' flying day in a fortnight. There is_ very little of these —what there is is silk and costs 29b 6d.

Home-made kimonos of figured eropon edged with a double band of silk to match make pretty and inexpensive presents, much appreciated. An obi is rather a nuisance than otherwise.

A black velvet bow worn at the top of the collar is a Parisian innovation. Tweed skirts, in light, fine materials are now being very slightly gathered in at the back, and though in corslet shape, are finished with a narrow band of the material, which is completed at the, back with a small flat bow of the tweed.

Dainty pockets, that are at the same time novelties appear on some of tho newest model blouses. One' of these was in flowered gauze, patterned in pink rosebuds On a blue ground, and trimmed # with tiny linen buttons worked with silk thread. At the left side appeared the breast pocket trimmed with blue silk and finished, with buttons. Only the very smallest handkerchiefs are accommodated in such flimsy material, of course. Pleated skirts show signs of returning again—a strange state of things, if they become popular at tho same time as the tightish plain ones that are still the most universally'fashionable. The only examples seen just now are in thin silks. An unpatterned silk skirt and spotted foulard coatee is very smart.

An incongruity that cannot be commended is the idea of having very long tight sleeves on a gown with a decollete neck. It seems a pity that just as the hot summer approaches,, when three-quarter .sleeves are so delightfully cool and so appreciated these long, ,graceful ones should be brought in. A singular gown, of remarkable effectiveness, seen this week may contain a colour suggestion of use to some of my readers. The foundation was of white mousseline de soie, the skirt was gracefully draped, the low neok cut square and outlined with folded black tulle, with an inset of pale coral tulle in front. The plain loose sleeves, to the elbow, and the tunic—like draping, divided in the shape of a large inverted V at the waist in front, reaching to the hem at the sides and terminating on the little train were of soft white lace and coral embroidery. The high waist was marked with two narrow bands of folded black tuDe. The unusual note in the gown is supplied by a sort of lattice-work of black tulle, in intertwining festoons from the decolletage to the waist and, tunic fashion, from the waist to about the knees, longer at the 3ides than in front of the skirt.

There is a distinctly neglige effect about some of tho new, thin gowns and race coats that is difficult to admire. Both have frills of lac« down tha centre from the neck to the ground.