FASHIONLAND.

Star (Christchurch), Issue 10418, 23 March 1912, Page 4

FASHIONLAND.

[From Our London Correspondent.] February 2. Pictures of some very beautiful black and white gowns hare been sent to mefrom France this week. One of these is of fine white soft satin, made a little short waisted, and with a slanting panel of creamy guipure lace, from the left shoulder to the waist, and down the centre of the skirt, and slightly draped round to the right side of the hem. The V shaped neck is absolutely jpkyn. and so are the elbow "Jeeves—in fact the severity of this creation is its greatest distinction—but, at the right of the decolletage at the waist, and spreading its petals wide, is a tiger lily of black velvet, with each petal putlined with pearls, and with a centre of pearls. The skirt has a slight and beautifully draped train. White satin shoes are shown with it, and pearl ornaments. An unusual gown for the street is of black chiffon taffeta, tho coat made in Russian style, fastened invisibly slightly towards the left, and a good deal longer at the back than in the front, where it reaches about half way to the knees. A very narrow band of black patent leather fastening at the left with a flat leather buckle gives a high waisted effect, and the sleeves, long and tight, are finished with narrow turn-back cuffs of soft ivory net." A very small vest of ivory net, and a round collar of soft net lace, lend the only other touches of white. Just below" the coat, and set slantingly on the skirt, is n broad band of black fox fur, that gives a singularly original touch to the otherwise simple costume. With this is worn a, high toque of Mack taffeta with a black busby aigrette at the back.

Two other unusually effective gowns illustrated may bear description as suggestions. Both are of white liberty satin underneath; one was for afternoon and the other for evening wear.

The first could only be worn by a slender, full-chested woman, as its simplicity would accentuate either n tendency to embonooint or scragginess. It has no collar, and the sleeves are long and tight, with about six white satin buttons on the outside of each arm. Round the neck, and in a pretty cascade down the front of a draped bodice, is a frill of Mechlin lace, and down the centre of the skirt and slightly draping it are six more buttons of white satin. A high swathed bla-ck satin belt stretches from the normal waistline to the bust, and the whole of the back of the skirt, over a panel of white satin, is of black satin, with a looped loose bow, just below the waist at the back. There is no train. With this is worn a block velvet picture hat with white feathers. The second —the dinner gown—is of white satin, with a V-shaped dccolletage. It is made Magyar style, and is quite plainly draped with black ninon, tho edges of the short, plain sleeves being iaggotted with black over white ninon. The bottom of the belt is on the normal waistline, coming up to a peak at the decolletage hi lront, and is of thick, black lace, mounted on black. At each side of the skirt is a loose panel of black ninon, edged with a wide band of the black lace, and, below that again, with a band of black silk velvet, so that it reaches below the knees.

A long sash of black ninon finishes the gown at the back and falls over a train of white satin.

Embroideries aro so much in favour that any girl who cares for embroidering should experiment and see how elaborate an evening coat or evening gown she can make for herself, with very little expense, and yet beautiful result. Cretonne flowers may b© used, but the richest method is to cut out roses or conventional flowers in tinsel brocade, and applique them upon rovers, sewing them with heavy buttonhole stitch in coloured silk. On a gown or coat of velvet or silk this looks very effective, and cabochons could bo made tho same way for the simple Alpino hats that are now worn, turned up in front.

A serviceable bath-robe and one at the same tim.-» bright and pretty, that will siand any amount of washing, can be fashioned, kimono style, of Turkish towelling. It should havo a wide collar, revers and sleeves edged witlj pale blue, pink or any colour lined, and bo fastened with large buttons. Short waists, a beauty specialist grumbled recently, will be found at their demise to havo encouraged people to allow themselves to grow fnfc, after the rigorous demands of Diroctoire days. Tho high waist-lino and straight skirt undoubtedly help to conceal stoutnr-"f', and make a woman realise that she may indulge in broad hips without quarrelling with her. dressmaker.

Cockades of various descriptions look as if they're i-> be the most popular millinery embellishment for the -spring, and aro of feathers, down, wool, chenille, etc. A smart hat of this week was of soft white velvet felt, with, as its only trimming, a drooping cockado of black chenille.

For so mo reason or none one finds, in trying on hats, that if 0110 is not very much be-padded as to coiffure, nearly all the models are too large in the head, and a new idea, therefore, that will make the most obstinate and tempting creation lit every head that

desires it, will bo welcomed. This ia a hat that will expand or contra'ct by means of ribbon lacing that pulls out cr draws in at will. Tn bonnets the plan is carried out in tho strings. Very heavy veils, foolishly called coquettish, with tho object of luring women to don such sight-weakeners, are, it is prophesied, to bo the fashion, and many are already seen. Some have sprawling; scrolls FWTanged in a bewildering mazo of turns on a thick ground of Russian net; others scroll patterns interspersed with groups of heavy dots. The mosaic veil is a great favourite. This consists of thick and thin threads arranged in a small uneven pattern after the fashion of mosaic work. Sprays of heavy velvet leaves and flowfrs worked on tulle form another design. Some of the newest veils are actually embroidered in coloured hieroglyphics with an effect on what can bo seen of tho face beneath that is too horrible to call forth admiration from anyone.

The belted' Russian blouse for outdoor wear is expected to be much seen during the coming spring months.