FASHIONLAND.

Star (Christchurch), Issue 10301, 4 November 1911, Page 4

FASHIONLAND.

£Fbom our. London Coeeespondent.] September 15. Fashion has taken a short step forward this week, but in a direction thatsome of us won't at all approve. The erratic Dame's worst offence is that, after agitating unsuccessfully for over a year for short ccats, and then, in the spring, getting them, she has declared that they no longer please her, and that wo'vo to go. back to long ones. That's all very well-r-I think the majority of people agree that long coats were ever greater favourites than short ones—-but what of the poor economical ones who have now invested in costumes with short coats. Long ones can be cut short, but, alas, short ones made long are not often a success. Some of the latest models .are trimmed with braided velvet, and the skirts have side V panels at the foot, of the same rather clumsy trimming. There is a more decided tone about everything this week, as compared with last, and some of the costumes, mainly in navy serges, aro lavishly decorated with wide black mercerised braid. Others have velvet collars .in bright colours and braiding as well, and I'have mentioned before that enamel buttons in vivid colours are much seen. Some very graceful black and cream lace overdresses for evening, aro appearing again. With the break-up of the long spell of cloudless weather this week, furs have instantly appeared, and many people will be delighted to learn that, after its long and unjust banishment there are many indications that white fur—that most becoming of, perhaps, any adjunct to the average woman's toilette—is to be reinstated in feminine favour again this season. Ono beautiful evening coat that I was shown this week, was of pearl grey velvet with a broad thick collar of Canadian fox. Whito winter hats, too, are showing in felt, velvet and'that rather heavylooking grebe. " Nothing in the wholo place one could possibly wear " was the verdict I heard passed, by a sensible-looking woman talking to her husband, this week, as both stood looking in the windows of a well-known West End milli- j ncr, whose most delectable autumn dainties were sot out to dazzlo the public. Tyrolean beavers in many different colours abounded, each guiltless of any more elaborate trimming than ono small rosette or infinitesimal wing —the hats themselves were dented in at one side of tho crown as if by accident. The sugar loaf brimless hat that was so much worn in straw during the season is being reproduced now in felt, and there wero models of that The larger shapes were trimmed either with high stiff bows of wide striped ribbon edged with some bright colour, or with an extrsordinary new feather trimming laid on to canvas, as are the feathers on a Maori mat. Used as the Maoris us© them tho feathers look their best, but omployed as English milliners are using them, an expensive hat looks first cousin to a rather threadbaro feather duster. Hobble nightgowns aro the latest things in the- lingerie world ! These are made Empire fashion with low necks and short loose sleeves, and there is a straight band at the kneo from which falls a deep kilted frill. Tho homo needlewoman will be delighted to hear that there is every indication that embroidered muslin collars and cuffs in white, Paris or colours, will again be very popular. On a dark coat and skirt they have a delightfully fresh and light effect. Wool trimmings seem, in theory, anything bat graceful adjuncts to a costume, yet it looks as if they are to become fashionable in the winter. " Tinslitis " ■ is ' a disease of the past, but wool trimming is very like it. The large rovers and upturned cuffs, as well as tho high waistbands with long ends worn on some of tho most fashionable tailor-mades, aro now made of knitted wool in all sorts of- bright colours. A navy blue silk serge has wide rovers of crimson knitted wool, and a deep violot surah coat and skirt has lapels, cuffs, and sash of white wo]]. Scmo of these knitted bands have- flowers of wool worked on theim also. An exceedingly pretty way of draping a lace fichu that may contain a suggestion for my readers, was illustrated last week. Tho skirt of the dress was of grey and cherry shot taffeta, made perfectly plain, except for a double row of small, flat ruchings at tho hem. A very wide sash of cherry-coloured satin was draped over the left shoulder, across tho front of the corsage, and round the waist, finishing at the left siclo with two long .sash ends. Ovev