THE WOMEN OF EGYPT.

Star (Christchurch), Issue 7506, 13 September 1902, Page 3

THE WOMEN OF EGYPT.

Se&utifol Eyesl, Sands and Foot. In Egypt the forms of womanhood develop tneinselvea about the ninto. or tenth years j and at firteen and sixteen attain their highest perfection. Their complexions are somewhat lighter than those of the men; paxtioularly with the town women, who aiways go veiled when out of doors. The prevailing tone is a clear yellowish, soft brown, while those of the fellaheen, of the upper stretches of the Nile, are somewhat darker. The countenance is of a fine oval, but sometimes somewhat broad. The women aie models of beauty in body and limbs, and in the countenance mofct of them axe pleasing and many exceedingly lovely. But soon after they have attained their perfect .growth they rapidly decline, and at forty many are absolutely ugly. Their eyes, with few exceptions, are bkok, large and of almond form, with long and beautiful lashes, and exquisitely soft, bewitching expression. Eyes more beautiful can hardly be conceived, and their charm is heightened by the concealment of the other features. This is irendered stall more striking by the universal practice. of blackening the edges of the eyelids, both above and belbw the eye, witn a black potfder called kohl. This is commonly composed of a soot produced by burning an aromatic resin, lebin, a sort of frankincense. The kohl ia applied by a small skewer-like pencil of wood or ivory, first moistened in rosewater and dipped in the powder and then; drawn along tne edges of the lashes v The Greet' and Jewish women had' ibis custom in early times. | The eyes of the Egyptian women are the * finest of their features, and faces wholly handsome are far less oommon than handsome forms. The nose is generally straight ; the lips rather fuller than those of the men, hut not in the least negroid. The hair is that deep, glossy black, suiting best all but fair complexions ; in some instances rather coarse and crispy 4 but never woolly. , . ... The women of all classes stain their nails, bands and feet in oettain places with henna (the leaves of a privet). Their hands and feet are beautifully formed, and are stained a yellowish red or deep orange. Many thus dye only the nails of the fingers and toes ; others extend the dye as far as the first* joint of eaoh finger and toe j others make stripes or dots across the next joint ; so that there are several fanciful ways of applying the henna. (Besides this, it is oommon to apply the dye to the whole of the inside of the hands, amd to the soies of the feet. This is said to make the skin less tender and sensitive for walking barefoot. The henna leaf is prepared for dyeing by being powdered and mixed with water and ! applied, boimd on with a cloth end pemaan- ' W one night. The stain does not disappear for a fortnight, when it muse be rei newed. To the nails the henna imparts a i dearer and prettier tint than to the don. ; It is rather an embellishment, to my mind, j than a blemish. By another method tbo stains can be made black, which is muon less pretty. Another characteristic of the Egyptian women is their upright carriage and pit, remarkable in the feflaheen, ow^ *»«"» I carrying the ballas, or cream-coloured water jars, on their heads. , . J Egyptian women axe fond of long hair, and add toa* by artificial means, notwith-Swdb-i the koJan forbids it ; . but -the use of human hak for the purpose is absolutely forbidden. m Three black silk strings united at tbe top to each braid, from sixteen to *&**?>■ inches long, are braided withthe hair for about a quarter of their length; or r they ! may be attached to a band of b^ack «ik lace, wbich is then bound round the head i and in this case the strings hang distmct from the braids of hair. This is termed the safa. Along each string, f*^**™* f the upper extremity^ to about a quarter I of its Lgth, are attached nine or more I little ornaments of gold, of the same form. ! This form may be oblong or pear-shaped. ' They are affixed by a little ring about an inch apart, but each string is so placed that the strings do not hang equally in length. - To the end of each is a small gold tuoe, or a polygonal 'bead, beneath which is a small gold coin. Some ladies wear the kurs, a kind of metal jewelled convex diBC, which is sewed on top of the tarboosh, or cap. . , , The dress of the better classes is haMaome and elegant. Tbe fine shirt is full, like that oi the nen, but shorter, reaohing not quite to the knees. It is of some '■ material, cotton or muslin^, but often of , crepe, sometimes black. A pair of very wide trousers (Shintiyan) of a striped, coloured silk fabric, or of figured or printed muslin, etc., is tied around the hips s under the sHrt, with a dikksh, or running tape in a seam. The lower paxts are drawn up and tied with similar running strings, just ! below the knees, but the hang-over is suffli oiently long to reach nearly to the feet, i over the tie. Over the shirt and trousers j is worn a long vest, or yelek, of the sarao ' material as the trousers, or better. i-oe sleeves also are long, and are made to button down the front from the bosom to a little below the girdle, instead of tapping over it. It is also open on each side, from the hipa downward. In general, the yelek is cut decollete, so as to leave the bosom j half uncovered, save by the shirt. It J should be long enough to drag on the floor two or three inches, or more. Sometimes, in place of the yelek, an anteree or short vest is worn, reaching only j a little below the waist, but otherwise cxi

actly like the yelek. A square shawl or scarf doubled diagonally is worn around the waist as a girdle, the two corners folded down behind. Over all this is worn the gibbeh, or long garment of cloth, velvet, or j silk, embroidered, or not, like a cloak. It j is as long as the yelek. j The headdresses vary very much with j wealth and fancy. Few ladies wear stock- : ings at home ; but in the streets one sees ; plenty of clocked coloured stockings, in j European high-heeled' bootees. Many, it is said, wear the mez or inner slipper of yellow leather t which slips into a bigger one of the same colour when they , go out. These big ones are called bagoog. j Some in old times, but not much now, except at the bath, used high sandals inlaid • with pearl. This was to keep the skirts out j of the dirt, or to make them appear tall. . j All the foregoing are for house wear. i ! The walking or riding attire is tezyeereh. It is a large loose gown, the sleeves of which are nearly equal in width to the whole length of the gown. It may be of silk, black or coloured. ' Next comes the burko, or face veil, which may be of embroidered white muslin or of black crepe, concealing the whole face except the eyes. Finally she puts on the habaTah, a huge cloak of two breadths, of glossy black silk, and three yards long, so worn as to hide the person completely except the eyes. The peasant or fellaheen women wear only the trousers and a blue cotton tunic or . shirt, reaching almost to the feet ; over the j head a scarf of cheap black or blue cotton muslin (tarhar). They go barefooted and without girdle. Sometimes, in the towns, however, if they can afford it, they wear j the burko, or face veil. j