THE WAIMANGU GEYSER.

Star (Christchurch), Issue 7232, 19 October 1901, Page 2

THE WAIMANGU GEYSER.

Its Discovery. An interesting description of a visit to the country around the above newly-dis-covered geyser was contributed by Mrs Humphrey "Haines to the "Auckland Weekly News" recently, from which we make the following extracts : — THE VIEW FHOM PAKEHERtr. On the morning of Jan. 30 we left Rotorua for Wai-o-tapu, via Pareheru. From this latter place a fair view of the ash-covered country may be had without leaving the coach. In the distance, Tarawera Mountain stands boldly out, showing the chasm on its south-western slope. A little to the left of this, one gets a glimpse of a small portion of Tarawera Lake, while in the mid-distance the bare grey slopes of Te-hape-o-Toroa Mountain, deeply scored by innumerable rain-formed crevasses and valleys, meets the eye. On the other side of this high ground the new and extensive Rotomahana Lake stretches away right to . to foot of Tarawera Mountain,, but unfortunately no part of it is, visible from this point of view. At a position a little to the right of Te-Eape-o-Toroa, and somewhat nearer to the observer, are situated the Inferno, Echo, and Southern Craters, and it is this region that I particularly wish to deal "with later tm. ... FROM rAREHERU TO WAI-O-TAriT. After enjoying this view for a short time I resumed my journey to. Wai-o-tapu, leaving my husband at Pareheru, his intention being to try and find a shorter and more direct track to the Southern Crater than the one •used by Mr Pond and him last year. In the evening, on his arrival at W\u-o-tapu he gave the following account of his explorations: — Leaving Pareheru at twenty minutes to one by the old track (which starts from the southern side of the road, about 170 paces from the loop at View Point) he made his way along it, passing the site of last year's camp, crossing a swamp from which a stream runs to Okaro Lake, then over a couple of ridges and past two small lakes, the second and 'larger of which he named " Fault Lake " ; and so on to the Southern .Crater, where lie arrived at a quarter-past two. Prior to leaving Pareheru, only a very small body of steam could now and then be seen rising from the position of the Inferno Crater, and it looked as if the activity of last year, when Mr Pond and he witnessed a severe explosion of the Echo Crater Lake, had considerably decreased. However, on arrival at the Southern Crater, it was very evident that such was not the case. True, the Echo and Inferno Crater Lakes were all quiet, arid only a very faint steam cloud was rising from their surfaces. But some great change had taken place in the valley, just beyond the Echo Crater Flat and between, it and the Boiling River. From this position large volumes of steam were frequently rising, and every fiye or ten minutes masses of black water were shot into the air to heights varying front. 50ft t^ 300$. During his stay at the Southern Crater this grand display was continuous, and never a period exceeding eight . minutes occurred without a major explosion, and smaller ones were going all the time;, . . . JOURNEY TO THE CRATERS. The next day we got our tent and gear together, and made a start for the new Wonderland on the following morning. On arrival, about one o'clock, much to our disappointment there was no sign of activity, only a little steam rising from parts that a couple of days ago were in such a turmoil. Up to the evening the Crater Lakes and the Valley were perfectly quiet, with a light ste&m rising from them, when suddenly at a quarter to six, from the latter position, and Without any warning, not even an increase in> the steam cldhid, a large mass of black water was thrown to a height of about 300 ft and followed by a lovely cloud/ of steam, which rose to a great altitude and then slowly spread itself into a large, white cloudy It was a magnificent sight, and, although a long distance off, one could not but feel greatly impressed by its imposing magnitude and the vastness of the forces capable of giving such a manifestation. The Echo and Inferno Lakes weve now throwing off an increased volume of steam, and were apparently preparing for a further display of their powers, but in a short time the steam decreased in quantity and all became quiet again. _ At half-past nine the stillness of the night was broken by a loud rushing sound. On looking: out, we saw that the valley geyser (subsequently named the Waimangu Lake) had again exploded, and its site was crowned with a massive steam cloud, slowly rising in the still night air, and brilliantly reflecting the light of an almost full moon. Again on this occasion there was only a single outburst, followed by a considerable period of quiescence. During the night the sounds of three or four further explosions reached us. but they did not greatly interfere with our slumbers, as we knew that by the time the sound travelled to this distance there would be nothing to see but the rising column of steam. ACTIVE CBATKRS. At half-past five next morning, Feb. 2, we were awakened by the sound of another'explosion, and, on turning out, found that the sun had risen and was shining on an enormous steam cloud which overhung ar.d was ascending! from the craters, whilst all around was low-lying mist, through which the steam had forced its way. As the sun rose -higher the mist slowly cleared away, exposing to view the now denselysteaming lakes. During the early morning heavy masses of steam were rising all tht time" and at a quarter to eight anothei beautiful outburst took place. A narrow column of water was shot upwards to ;\ height of about 400 ft, and then fell back on its uprising cushion of white si cam. which continued its ascent for some thousands of feet. Aboua half past eight a vast massive column of black water " was projected upwards, rising in . iUI apparently f-olicl baly mitil it veaclisd hstween * six and :-even hundred feet, then for a- moment it seemfd t:j poise, hut in an another instant it* apex burst outwards, and a. torrent of inky Avater streamed downwards to meet ami lose itself in the snowy billows of steam' which rolled majestically upAvards, swallowing the now 'descending fombre mass and ringing anil tumbling: on itself as it soared higher «,ndhigher into the clear and cloudless blue of lire- heavens. It whs awe-inching, and a iight to !»c remeiiibereJ. Wb*t height this s-team-cloml eventually reached it Avutild bu difficult to Kay, Jjut it must have gone many thousands of feet before it Avas nbsivibed. We Arere singularly fortun-ute in obtaining two good photographs of this outburst, one of the. column of Avater as it rose just prior to its bursting, and the other

I I of its rapidly-ascending rteam, Avhic-.li lat--1 I t-r. as »hr:.Avn in th-c photograph, must haA-e ■ already received over 2000 ft. although, comparatively, it had only just started on its . upAvard 'journey. At half-past ten Mr MattheAvs, of iiotonia, and a. Maori named . Edward joined us at the camp. We all • '.vent down to the Echo plateau, and, as- . cending the. hill to the eastward of it. Avere able t> look doAvn upon the site of all this ! reo;rit activity. Hero Avas a, large, irregu- ', larly-circnla-r 'lake, about ha.lf r.n acre in extent, of black, muddy, steaming Avater, the surface of Avhich Avas about 40ft below the level of its plateau. This lake must [ ht of very great depth, seeing what enormous volumes of Avater, mud, and stones 1 have been ejected from it, so that the hills and Alleys for a radius of abcut 409 or 500 1 yards are covered Avith its debris. Last year the place iioav (occupied by the Waimangu (black Avater) Jjake Avas quite ai flat continuation cf tho floor of this A^a-lley, the Avfcole of Avhich avp.p perforated by i-nnu- ! merable small steam-holes, boiling jets, and ■ springs. Mr Pond and my 'husband 'had crossed -this place many times on their., way to and from the Inferno Cascade and Boiling River, little thinking that in a • few months' time its condition would be so greatly changed. But rot alone* is the immediate vicinity of the lake altered — other parts also are much changed in their appearance since Insfc year, notably the Inferno Cascade, which is new dry, and its pretty sinter basins covered Avith oivud; also the upper portion of the Boiling River, i where vegetation Avas gradually establish- . in;: itself amongst the brightly -hued' rocks j and numerous small geysers and steam jets : Avere continuously in play, all combining to , make the beauty of this little valley beyond description. But ivoav, alas, all this once lovely spot has a most desolate appearance, being of a uniform dull greyish colour, and ' .almost all actiA-it-y has disappeared. As Aye looked, the bed of the Boiling River 1 was quite dry, but it showed signs of hay- ■ ing- recently been traversed' by a, considerable volume of water, nnd there can be little doubt that such takes place during the eruption from the new lake. ' THE SIGHTS AT AVAI-O-TAPTj. We remained about two weeks longer at Wai-o-tapu, Avhich time Aye spent A-isiting the numerous sights AA-hich are to be seen within easy walking distance of the hotel. To enumerate all these Avould take up too much time ; but I may brieflj- mention these most Avorthy of note. Aporc- Wiuiata's ground should of course be visited, as here are to be reeii the famous Champa gTie Tool, the Alum Cliffs-, the beautii ful Primrose Terraces, and numerous coloured lakas, etc. . . . The. Sulphur Gave, though snia.ll, is <>f great beauty. To vieAV it properly one must enter the cave, stooping loav ho as to avoid the sulphurous fumes that are continuously pouring from its mouth ; now the roof can bs seen covered with pendant clusters of glistening sulphur crystals. * Tho waterfall and rapids of the Wai-o-tapu Stream, as it flows through the grounds, will also attract attention. ' Situated more to the AvestAvard, the Tivin Falls of Siot Avater are a lovely spectacle. Coloured pools of limpid water, bailing nrudjioks, sulphur springs, amd weird chasms abound everyAvhere in cuch infinite number and variety" that to enumerate them all •would b 3 impossible.