NEW POUFFED SLEEVE.

Star (Christchurch), Issue 5689, 7 October 1896, Page 4

NEW POUFFED SLEEVE.

» (Leader.) The most fashionable sleeve at the present moment is undoubtedly the long, tight-fitting one, either plain or ruffled, and finished at the top with a full round pouff, as shown by our first diagnun. The ruffled sleeve is used for thin textures, such as canvas, grass lawn, grenadine and chiffon ; also for muslins and chin 'washable materials, and only thick, solid textures and silk or satin, are m;.d«s t>»ain. The ruffled sleeve, as shown, talan r-ln-te yards

of twenty-two to twenty-seven inch material, the ruffled part alone requiring three-quarters of a yard for each sleeve The lining is first cut, as shown by diagram No 2, the parts marked E showing the elbow, where the upper sleeve is gatKex-ecL on -to tlie svnn.ll -under part. Now, it is most important that this elbow fits accurately, as if placed either too high or too low the arm can only bo bent partially, and the sleeve is strained by every movement. In order to bring £he elbow to its proper position, the alterations must be made either at the top or bottom of the sleeve, as may be required,' and this lining should be fitted before the outer material is put on. The line marked P shows where tho pouff is sewn on, and the ruffled material goes just above this line, and is fixed before the pouff. When cut out, the longer seam of the lining is stitched, leaving the lining to spread open in one piece, and lie almost

flat, except for the rounded elbow. The material forming the ruffled partis then cut, and laid over the lining, commencing first at the middle, and making tiny irregular pleats all down. The ruffled part is shown by the upright piece marked twenty-seven inches, on the third diagram, and the crosses denote the centre, which should be arranged first. When the centre is fixed the material is drawn at each side to the under arm seam, and when tacked down the two sides are laid together, and the scam stitched through lining and material together. The pleats should not be too regular or follow the line from the centre too accurately, or the effect is stiff and unpleasing. The pouff, folded double, with theunderpart uppermost, is shown at the lower part of diagram No. 3, and it will be noticed that just under the arm the pouff is exceedingly shallow — in fact, lies almost fiat

over the lining — otherwise there would be an ugly hanging piece showing quite below the proper line of the pouff. When setting on the pouff, the lower part should be first gathered, and sewn to the sleeve from the inside, and the pouii" then turned up, gathered, and fixed to the top. The fullest part of the pouff, both top and bottom, is between A and XA, as marked on the diagram, and just above the under arm seam, on top of the sleeve, the fulness is slight, whilst underneath there is barely any. This sleeve will certainly remain in favour for some time, and will figure largely in both spring and summer gowns. Once the lining is well fitted, and the elbow accurately placed, a correct paper pattern should be kept, as this saves a great deal of unnecessary trouble, and no plain sleeve can set well without the elbotr being absolutely in its place.