MISS COLONIA IN LONDON.

Star (Christchurch), Issue 5427, 30 November 1895, Page 3

MISS COLONIA IN LONDON.

CONFIDENCES TO HER COUSINS ACROSS THE SEA. London, Oct. 11. Dear Cousin,— The long, bright, gloriously fine autumn came to a sudden termination a few days ago with a downpour of rain, putting a stop to the river trips and country ramblings which promised to continue for a long ' time, so warm, even hot, was it right to the beginning of October. The "tint of fading" of the English foliage has been very beautiful this year as seen in the September sunshine, and could not fail to charm colonial eyes accustomed to the duller, more uniform shades of green. On a country ramble a short time ago I was forcibly reminded of that expression one often cornea across in English-written novels " on a golden autumn afternoon "— for it was golden. Between a glade of trees the drowsy atmosphere seemed to hold the sunbeams which fell upon the brown and yellow leaves on the oaks, elms and beeches, and made the bark glisten here and there like bronze. A stray buttercup or dandelion gleamed among the grass, and distant hayricks and farmhouse roofs shone through the hazy air. A girl coming down the glade, dressed in a dark green frock, with a bunch of woodbine berries at the waist, in company with a lady costumed in russet brown and gold, with red flowers in the headdress, aurmounting golden hair, added a living touch of colour to the tawniness of the still scene. But the rain has washed the gold off autumn's mantle, and white mists creep over fields and river, while in town the merry tinkle of the muffin bells heard in late afternoon, and the advent of fires at five o'clock tea, are suggestive hints that summer is over and harvest past. And now, being faced quite suddenly with gray skies, women are asking one another, with real interest and anxiety, " What will be worn ? "

At present costumes are in the transition stage. A little extra wrapping is all the change noticeable, for society has not yet returned to London, and middle-class folk have not long finished shopping at the autumn sales. Economical and good managers patronise these sales largely, and wiaely also, for there is nob such marked difference in the styles of fabric from one season to another as in the fashion of make, which does change almost from to month in some small particular, unporceived, perhaps, by masculine eyes, bat apparent enough to feminine observation. A man generally knows if a woman looks "all right," but a smart woman can tell wby.

Among tho summer goods are to be found endless little dainty trifles in the way of lace and muslin for the adornment of house and street dresses, which, being obtainable, from a amaU fortune to a few pence, will be greatly abused as well as ÜBed. There is a style of woman and girl who never should wear lace. If ehe doss it ia sure to be on all awry, to be untidy and soiled both at neck and wrists, and give a general hint of the blue-bag and starch. But those women who know how to wear it cannot do better ; it gives character to the gown and softens the face, while it permits those who have not unlimited pin-money to freshen and relieve their gowns. Last season's dress may be converted into a charming house frock by tbo addition of deep collarette and cuffs. But first pick off all the trimming. Nothing is so suggestive of the days which are no more as faded and crumpled ribbons and broken gimp. A woman with a pretty neck may eafoly do away with her high dress collar, and wear the lace collar without. The comfort of this arrangement need hardly be hinted, especially for the hot weather, apart from its effectiveness. Those hard, high, stuffy collars, finished off with two knobby bows just beneath the chin, are anything but picturesque, destroying the outline of the neck, as well as being uncomfortable.

Talking of collars, reminds me that the Queen Elizabeth style is to be worn again this winter on jackets and mantles. No one who favoured them several yoara ago will regret their survival, for they were so delightfully cosy and very becoming to tall figures. But they are a forbidden luxury to the short women, to whom, ou tho other hand, Dame Fashion ie still kind, for if anything Bkirta show a tendency to narrow again. Most of the fulness ia at tbe back ; the very smartest are not quite bo wide at the bottom as they were a fow months ago, and there is no danger threatened iv the way of drapings. Many of the evening drssaeß are made with Princess baoks. ■

Jackets will bs to the fore again for the winter, made with tight-fitting backs and semi-loose fronts, to allow the full-dress bodice to remain uncrumpled underneath ; the aleevcs largo, very large, and in some ensea bell-Bhapod. Velvets and rich cloths, both plain and brocaded, are the chief materials worn, edged and richly trimmed with fur. Although velvet will be among the leading materials, it will not bo a favourite for the whole dreßs, because of its clinging nature— the skirts made of this stuff do not stand out in the approved manner. There are stamped velvets for bloußes on smart occasions made of cream, with bright colours, or black, or any tint you like, patterned in gorgeous shades. With the winter dresses tight-fitting bodices will come in again, bringing with them the vexed question of corsets. The loose blouse left the wearers free to indulge in slackened corset strings, and it is very creditable to women that in some directions there is a grumble that they must be tightenod again. Still there is a Bteady progress in this direction, which the corset-makers have been ready to meet by executing the invention of Mdllo Desbrufere, which is a corset made without the hard busk, elastic gussets being also introduced to allow of a freer use of the respiratory orgauß.

The divided skirt movement doea not miifce mi gw&t etridvs. except & mm %

cyclists, who, on the whole, seem to prefer the divided skirt, and the short over-skirt to the knickerbockers and tunic. Lady ' cyclists n*o longer cause surprise— -it is quite a common sight to see them in the London streets, not perhaps in the town proper, where the demand upon the nerveß would be too great for enjoyment ; but Btill, in thoße places where it requires no small amount of dexterity to thread a way between the vehicles. I have not noticed a full knickerbooksred and coated figure among the ladies on wheels. I think the day is a long way off when women so equipped could pass through the London streets or parks unnoticed, or drawing so little attention bb " the women who have dared "in the colonies. Seeing the ever changing panorama of the streets it is astonishing what a small thing will draw a crowd in London, and I am certain that a woman walking through Piccadilly or Hyde Park in full reform dress would be glad to very quickly regain her home.

The most modish and Parisian house dress seen in a high-class workroom had the double Watteau plait at the front instead of the back. The neck was cut 4 la Pompadour, and the plait extended from it to the hem of the gown. Ab far aa the waist line handsome lace fell eaoh side of the plait, passing over the shoulders to form a sailor collar over the Princeßie back of the gown. Wide effects continue in millinery. The hatß look very much overloaded in their abundance of ostrich-plumes, wide ribbons, and elaborate ornaments.

Tho smart white mohair gowns of the summer serve admirably as demi-saison dinner toilets;

Framboise or raspberry red is a colour that be will much seen in millinery, felt bonnetß and hats being shown of this tint.