WOMEN WHO MAKE A LIVING AS MODELS.

Star (Christchurch), Issue 5357, 7 September 1895, Page 3

WOMEN WHO MAKE A LIVING AS MODELS.

(Nin York Tribune.) ' , • There are hundreds of young women in New York who make their living as models; one authority ssys that there are more than a thousand; which estimate leads to the conclusion that good looks are not scarce in the island of Manhattan, for these young women owe success entirely to their fine physique. The models here alluded to are not those who sib to artists, and whose charms are transferred to canvas, but those who try on suits, silk waists, jackets, cloaks and capes for the benefit of the customers in the stores and dress* making establishments. ' The more exclusive and expensive of the women's tailors all employ models to dieplay their gowns. The best firms in the shopping districts have them, but the great majority of modelß find occupation in the big wholesale houses in middle and lower Broadway, a number of firms in that vioinity employing as many as a dozen the whole year around. The average model is paid from 12dol to 15dpl a week, but an unusually pleasing subject may command as high as 18dol. Those in the big retail establishments who combine the office of a model with that of a saleswoman get2Odol. The available model must measure thirty-six inches about the bust and twentthree or twenty-four around the waist, her height being in proportion, the trying on of gowns and cloaks for women built on a lesß liberal plan being intrusted to the misses' models; that is, to unformed girls fourteen or fifteen years old. Another advantage of the calling which a Bhrewd young woman pointed out in the course of an interview, was the fact that the models had the opportunity of getting raally first-class. gowns and jackets for muoh less than actual cost. "We rather pride ourselves on dressing well and being in good style," she explained. "It is a part of our business." And looking at the superb young figure, straight as an arrow and in beautiful proportion from head to heel, one could but feel that pride in her appearance was her just right and most becoming. "No matter how good, a model's figure may be, if she doesn't walk well she will never give satisfaction," said the manager of a fashionable firm. *' A certain graoe of bearing and movement is quite as essential in her vocation as a well developed figure. A woman comes here to buy a gown, for instance (our gowns worth lOOdol and over are all shown on models) ; she doesn't know exaotly what she wants, but in looking over the assortment finds one that suits Jn every respeot but for a certain arrangement of the trimming. Perhaps the effect which she objeots to may be new in style and on that account may strike her as odd, when in reality it is a great addition to the costume. Seeing that gown on a graceful, well-built model, as she walks about for inspection, the idea of the modiste who fashioned it will be borne to the would-be purchaser, and she will understand its possibilities as she never would if she only saw it on a lay figure. A good model, one who really understands her business, can sell any number of gowns that might otherwise be unnoticed and passed over. " The importance of the model as an adjunct to trade is not recognised so widely here, in America, as it is abroad," he went on to Bay. "At Round's, and other famous outfitters in Paris and London, there' are models not only of one type of beauty, but of all the varying types-4)londe, brunette and intermediate complexions. One model will be tall, slender, and willowy in form ; another will be plump and petite, another tall, of Juno-like proportions, all styles to suit a varying type of customer. The would-be purchaser is shown into a room that bears no outward sign of the nature of the business to be transacted. A few good piotures, a flower or two, but everything very plain in furnishing and appointments. ' What style of gown does madame require ? ' a factotum has asked at the door; and according to the kind of gown ordered is the speoial room into which madame is shown, one apartment being devoted to the purchasers of ball and reception toilets, another to street suits, yet another to outing gowns and costumes for the house. Madame waits in the empty room, and soon a model, in appearance somewhat near her physical type, comes in and walfcß quietly about that the customer may ace the gown she wears in ; every w<soj, J^ys,^,^,^

three-quarters view. That gown having been surveyed, the model withdrawn, and another of the same type, bat wearing a different gown, takes her place, and bo the toileta are shown until madame select* the one she likes. " This, of course, is in fastidious establishments, where the artist will not make ft cape for a short, stout woman or otherwise violate his principles. The models abroad have a much harder time in gome ways than they have on this side of the water. . A moderately good figure will command a good price in New York, bat in Paris and London they demand absolute perfection. There the models ate required to wear corsets that, in the rigid nature of their construction, must be most uncomfortable, and a model who Ms made a reputation for shapeliness dare not relax her lacings even when off duty, for fear she might spoil the enviable taper of her waist. In some respects, however, even although the wages there are smaller, the foreign models have the advantage over those here. Very handsome toilets are furnished them that they may always appear in keeping with their luxurious surroundings, and in many cases they live in the house where their work is carried on, free of charge, good accommodations and good service being furnished for them. "In the matter of education and general efficiency," he continued, "I think the American modek are of. a higher type. The foreign models have good manners, have quite an air, in fact, when addressing customers and the. Btrangers with whom they come in contaot, but it is just the sort of patois of their trade. It is considered an infringement of good breeding for them to use any but the third person in addreßßing a stranger, and they fall readily into the rut of observance and custom, making really an excellent appearance. The majority of them however, have very little education. Here in Now York they are fairly intelligent, wellspoken girls, and are models of propriety as well as of phyßique, though I do not mean that their foreign sißterß fail in propriety either. . " Many models are women of refinement and intelligence, but neither attribute is essential to their calling. A young person possessing the requisite physical development may be a most acceptable model, and yet have no mental cultivation whatever. The models for the pictures to be used as advertisements by the house sit to artists employed exclusively for that purpose. They don x the handsome hata and gowns and make charming subjects."