Origin of the "Sandwich."

Star (Christchurch), Issue 6714, 29 November 1889, Page 1

Origin of the "Sandwich."

It is not certain whether the noble Earl, after whom the handy little "fixing " was named, invented, or merely popularised, the sandwich. But it is clear that the dainty mouthful with which my Lord Sandwich was accustomed to refresh himself without leaving the card-table, and which presently achieved distinction in the fashionable world, had some intrinsic claims to consideration. The typical sandwich of our own day is hardly yet a viand to raise extravagant hope 3, or unduly to excite the waters of relißh ; but some, at least, of its higher possibilities are beingr gradually recognised. Nor have the " eawduat sandwiches " of the railway station materially abated their austerity since the time when the irreconcilable boy at Mugby pronounced authoritatively upon their shortcomings. But these, and all their kindred, are admitted declensions from the standard of a former day. There was assuredly something more than common in the sandwich and glass of punch which formed the customary supper of honourable gentlemen at the Cocoa Tree more than a century ago; and the nature of this may in some degree be realised by the modern revival of the sandwich after the long and exasperating period of it 3 decline. During this gloomy era it has been the butt, and almost the terror, of all classes of travelling Englishmen. Not that thecommodityhasalwaysreceivedfairtreatment at the hands of the public. It has still been held up to popular hatred and contempt, even when freshly cut and composed of materials quite above suspicion. This has arisen from a wide misapprehension of its true functions. As long as the sandwich continued to be a fashionable item of the supper table, it was a dainty daintily served. But it proved to be a fatally convenient form of edible, and its downfall proceeded from its own great usefulness. It was so willing, economical, and convenient a servant that it was imposed upon. Only too soon it began to be carelessly thrown together — at Mujjby the young ladies "chucked" their wares into position — to serve at any time and on all occasions. Its übiquity led to the delusion that it was designed as a substantial addition to the national bill of fare; and from thi3 point of view the popular voice at once pronounced it a failure. A man who had dined upon sirloin or haunch might at pleasure, and certainly with benefit, sup lightly upon a sandwich — and a glass of punch. But the healthy biped who should essay to dine " serenely full" upon a sandwich found that for the most part tlie elegant compilation contained only superficial measurement. From this moment John Bull eet his foot firmly down upon the unsatisfying innovation ; and Lord Sandwich's deceptive little %ilab was i forthwith associated with the curtailed ! "environment of cloth" which had been made popular by Lord Spencer. These were the famous twain of the epigram : — •' Two noble exrls whom, it I quote, Some folks might e<ll u:o ssinutr ; 'Ih-< one invented Jialf a coat, The other — half a dinnir." Now the sandwich, as commonly understood and partaken of, still remains as unsuitable for half as for a whole dinner. But signs of improvement are visible on many sides, and piquant and artistic variations of the original theme are to be obtained without difficulty. Who shall decide when the greatest masters of the cuisine are divided upon an issue of fundamental importance ? Obviously not the public, who have been a3 little able to agree upon the point in question as the mo3t exalted professors of the gastronomic art. "Make your sandwich of new French bread," said the distinguished Ude, " and make a point of leaving the crust upon the slices." If, however, we turn to the more popular pages of Alexis Soyer, we may read the statement that " the sandwich is best made with the crumb of a stale quartern loaf, trimmed free from all crust." Thus was formulated a heresy which the new railway system did nearly everything to propagate. "Stale quarterns" were no longer thrown upon the hands of the refreshment contractor, and bakers were probably not a whit less grateful for the new dispensation. As the traveller knows only too well, when sandwiches are prepared in considerable numbers, tradition insists that the pile must be cropped to a level finish. Thus sqared, as if by machinery, the mass is set aside to compact itself, assisted by a little gentle pressure from a plate or board, which is pleasantly thought to retain the moisture. From this discipline results the peculiar clamminess which has so long been regarded as an improvement on the " chippiness" of the sawdust species. The disengagement of one of these cohesive layers is an operation demanding some skill, and involving no slight amount of risk to the integrity of the remainder. The process of selecting from bulk — for what British subject ever demeaned himself by taking the uppermost? — resembles the act of consulting a work upon " Bread Stuffs," containing short interleaved .annotations upon animal food. But it is a volume in which few free agents are anxious to turn down a leaf. These and similar methods of construction are, however, just now in a state of transition, and for the moment the sandwich may be regarded as having attained the stage of unstable equilibrium Of the diagonal or " cocked-hat" variety — the glass-case specimen of the fashionable buffet — which is so callously manipulated with a pair of plated tongs, the less said the better. It it a feeble neutral ; without the anger-provoking dryness of the " sawdust" brand, or the deprecating air of its limp relations.