Fashions Up-to-Date

Observer, Volume XL, Issue 6, 11 October 1919, Page 23

Fashions Up-to-Date

[By Dolores.]

A Satin Petticoat. You might easily think this was an evening dress—one of the sleeveless variety—but it is just a petticoat Nothing could be simpler to make, for there is no shaping and cuttingout required. To make the top, a piece of wide insertion and a strip of satin about four inches wide are needed, their length about l£ to M yards for a medium figure. These two straight pieces are joined lengthways, shoulder-straps of ribbon or of

velvet are sewn firmly to the insertion, and two rows of gathers are made in the lower edge of the satin, drawing it in to the size of the waist, where it is joined to the petticoat skirt. A strong beading that will take an inch-wide ribbon covers the join neat'y. The skirt, which is simply two straight lengths of satin 1 gathered at the waist, is trimmed at the foot with a band of insertion to match the top, and is finished with a narrow pleated frill. A petticoat like this would be sufficient lining for a frilly net frock, and would certainly look very nice. <® <® <$ Separate skirts for wear with plain jumpers are in bright stripes, one of the stripes being used as trimming on hem, belt, or pockets. A French model had horizontal buttonholes worked at three-inch intervals down each side of the front and back panels, a stripe being pulled through these slots so as to form a cascade of loops from waist to hem. ® © $ A walk down Bond Street revealed to me some insouciant creations in lingerie via. the shop windows (says a London woman). I wonder who designs the pretty picture things to adorn dn,timate garments. First I gazed and wondered at several little baskets crammed with bright flowers and strung upon embroidered blue ribbons. A little further on the chef d'oeuvre of the window was a neathie upon which three hand--painted cupids performed parachute descents from a painted blue ribbon. A little French girl near me naively remarked that thoise petits anges were nice. @> ®> © "The exhibition of bare arms necessitated by the present Parisian evening gowns is a perilous fashion," says a French satirical writer, "for it is a test of feminine charms from which many women fail to emerge triumphant. The beautiful white arms we see before us in the stalls unveiled up to the shoulder first surprise us, then trouble us, finally

captivate us. They make us think of the honey, jam, and.dainty cream pastries we ate before the war. In the semi-obscurity of the theatre stalls they have the phosphorescence of moonlight, and have more soothing qualities than a Chopin nocturne." ® ss> © A Pretty Colour for Summer. The favourite colour for this season seems to be coral pink. It is seen in afternoon dresses, and blouses; there are many coral pink hats and even underc'bthing and nighties share its popularity. Some coral pink sunshades are veiled in black net, and very beautiful they are. Everybody who is anybody in the dress world is going to carry a sunshade this summer. Nothing can be too light or too fancy, or too fluffy in sunshade designs, too. There is the lingerie style with both fine and coarse lace and embroidery frilling. There are quite new kinds which are like wide-brimmed hats.. These are trimmed with big up-standing bows, or are swathed with sashes and bows. ® <© « Much Used Trimming. Many sunshades are trimmed with ostrich feathers and ostrich tips, especially the little motoring paraso*. The small early Victorian carriage sunshade has received new life for use in motoring. The newest idea of all is a wonderful creation of gold tissue. Then cretonne parasols are not going to be kept merely for seaside use either. Some of these are rather wild in design, but others are really dainty. @ . ® ®> Muslin and Woo! Embroidery. . Here is a hint ready for the summer. In a letter from England a friend tells me that she has just made some pretty party frocks for her little ones of organdie muslin, embroidered with fine wool. The combination sounds a rather strange one, but she assured me that it is charming. For one of the children she embroidered white muslin with Wedgewood blue wool, and for another the frock was pale grey with rose-pink wool. She tells me that she always makes her chiidren's play frocks of bright-coloured crash.

Personally, I think that where possible children should always be dressed in white or bright colours. Of course, this is quite impossible in many cases, where the laundry is a consideration, for instance, but even if the every r day frocks have to be of not-show-the-dirtr colours, the best frocks might be gay. I : lately saw some all-over embroidery used in a very effective way — as a pinafore dress over a pretty white muslin b"louse. It was at a children's party, and the wearer was a pretty little fair child of 10, who, with the frock,

wore a wide sash of pale blue, and in her hair a ribbon to match. Instead of the all-over lace, the same idea could be carried out in colours, making the pinafore of figured sateen or foulard. In the latter case, the underblouse would be nice, made of silk, either white or tussore.

Simplicity Is Good Taste

A simple flowered voile frock with a hem-stitched lawn collar and cuffs and a folded belt of the voile, or of lawn, can be as charming and dainty as an expensive crepe-de-chine dress, and twice as useful. The simplest styles are beat for cotton materials, and what a blessing that fact is to the girl who makes her own frocks. The home-dressmaker can always make a success of her work- if she keeps to the simple note. Too much cannot be said on this point. Every bit of trimming—even if it is on/y a row of stitching, either adds to the beauty of the costume or detracts from it. Simplicity is not plainness, and it is not stupidity, but it is the knowing what to leave off. Beauty of dressing need not mean costliness, but it does mean intelligent thought and a reasonable amount of atten-r tion to design and suitability. Stout women should avoid anything but the most simple lines, figures, and inconspicuous colours, and anything like a picture hat. No woman is well-dressed in a costume that is exaggerated. The toorscant skirt, the low-cut neck or transparent skirt, are forms of exaggeration, and they show extremely bad taste.