Fashions Up-to-date

Observer, Volume XXXVII, Issue 15, 16 December 1916, Page 21

Fashions Up-to-date

By Myra

EVEN the eimplest hat can look smart if worn at the correct

angle. A little, picture hat placed the right way rests on a bandeau of flowers at the back, and for the rest the trimming consists of a simple ribbon, nothing more.

The new plaited linen hats with plain linen crown are just the thing with light cotton frocks, such as pink or mauve, and look specially well in the smallish "pull-over" stapes.

Slender belts of black patent leather are now sometimes finished off with a black velvet bow instead of the severer buckle—a new idea and a pretty one with a voile or foulard frock.

Shrivelled grapes are enjoying a certain vogue on the canotier hat of stretched aerophane.

A coloured linen handkerchief tucked into the sleeve of the girl war-worker's severely practical suit or overall gives it a bright touch. It is pretty in violet, tan, green, or blue, and is of the perfectly plain hemstitched orde.r.

Butcher blue, shrimp pink, and peach are favourite colours , to choose for the summer cotton frock, and big white mother-of-pearl buttons form a suitable fastening. All the "natural" tints are well liked, and go by different names, such as gum, parchment, and nankeen, and the greys are distinctly in the ascendant and very cool and charming looking.

A dress of this kind requires no trimming. That is part of the charm. It is so constructed that the belt also is part of the design, a most satisfactory method of arrangement. A big flop Leghorn hat is an appropriate choice in headgear for a summer day, and the one illustrated has a bunch of apples with dark leaves as a decoration.

The number of dainty petticoats seen is now great, and the materials that compose them are cambric and taffetas, crepe de. chine and satin. Pleated ruffles of net appear on the satin skirts, and the old plan of twisting the material into the cockleshell pattern is revived for many of the new designs.

The only drawback to the pattern is that it is a dust-trap, but the folds of the "shells" can easily be separated and a brisk brush will perform the remaining cleansing rites.

Early spring and summer fashions smothered us in such an, avalanche of voile, the march of gingham into the front rank for cool frocks has come as a complete, surprise. Though still admiring the dainty very much, one. cannot help having a wandering eye towards ginghamit is always such a suitable fabric for summer wear, and. combined with something fresh and pretty in the way of front and collar, and topped by "a shady hat, the .gingham frock can hold its own anywhere. The deep Quaker-like collar of white Organdie is the most charming wear for the pale pink or blue gingham, but for some of the other tints there are pastel colourings in muslin neckwear that are. distinctly and attractively out of the common. For instance, with a grey, biscuit, or sandcoloured gingham what could be prettier than front and collar and long, pointed cuffs of the "Cavalier" order in palest pink, delicate mauve, or even a rather decided saffron? Simply delightful!

There is not a doubt of it that the woman whose toilette exhibits the attributes of well-cut, -well-made, exquisite simplicity is she who invariably scores in the dress stakes. She is distinctive. This struck me quite lately at a large gathering, where the women were dressed to the last degree in every form of latest fashion, which unerringly ran to taffeta. But one's eye was constantly arrested by the sight of one simple dresser among the lot—a pretty dark-eyed girl in pink gingham. Yes, really! Just the old-fashioned cotton frock of yore, pale and delicate in tint. It was beautifully made, hung in straight, though very full, lines to within five inches of the ground, and firmly belted at the waist by a narrow line of white suede, with mother-0 , -pearl buckles. The appointments of this simple toilette were perfect. The finest of white Organdie chemisette and collar, white suede gloves, black silk stockings, and a relief from the vulgar type of footwear so much seen now was a pair of narrow-vamped black patent shoes. She carried a balloon bag of black taffeta, with a swaying jet ornament.

There is only one garment that comes first in considering the restocking of the wardrobe at the beginning of each and that is the tailored euit. Our coats and skirts well chosen, we feel that the

foundation-stone of the new eeason's toilettes has been "well and truly" laid. Having dispensed with this important beginning, we then turn our attention to the dressy type of frock, and it is most interesting to note that amongst all thie volume of taffeta an exclusive note appears, which reduces taffeta frocks to the level of the commonplace. Juet here and there one sees it on someone, perhaps, who has just returned from overseas, which explains its exclusiveness. This new arrival is none other than our good old friend and staunch stand-by, the black satin frock. How it pops up now and again, looking most _ elegant, and always saving the situation when the commonplace has. set in. Each appearance is made in a slightly different guise, .so that, black satin though it be, it is black satin that keeps pace with the modes. This season it is charmingly combined with Georgette crepe and chiffon, and, warm though the weather be, it has odd little touches of narrow lines of fur.