Fashions Up-to-date.

Observer, Volume XXXV, Issue 49, 14 August 1915, Page 21

Fashions Up-to-date.

Br Myra.

THE most important thing to note about the changing fashions is the fact that 6kirts are steadily growing shorter and wider. Some of the English fashion papers show them of ridiculous dimensions, but it is hardly likely that sensible people wiE, in these days of stress, pliwige into fashions which might almost be described as freakish. At the same time, many will hail with delight the slightly wider skirt, for undoubtedly that garment had become aggressively tight.

Although, it is quite unnecessary to rush into very wide skirts, one begins to look consipcuous in an extremely narrow one. One must consider, than, how to widen a narrow skirt. It is becoming quite common to see down the front of a blue serge skirt a fine broad band of black silk braid, which has been added to hide the section of skirt into the wider effect. That is one way of managing. Another is to introduce a colour combination. It has long been rather distinctive to have a coat and skirt of different materials —the skirt of check, for instance, and the coat plain. There is no reason why tne same plan, should not be adopted with suits which, though onlly ihalf worn, have suddenly become out of date. Most coats will wear out two skirts. Further, the fashions in coats have not changed very radically. To the old coat it is effective to add, say, a striped skirt of the required width. A dark blue serge coat would look well with a striped skirt of blue and subdued green, or deep orange brown.

There is one kind of costume which none of us can afford to do without, no matter hoAV sternly Aye may try to practise economy, and that is the useful coat and skirt. The new coats show an extraordinary variety of length, but it is quite safe, when buying a neAv costume, to have the coat just be'loAV the hips. Waistcoats are very much worn, and are often of some bright colour, or if of Avhite a touch of colour is given m the buttons'. Bright printed sulks and foulards are being used to trim the coat®, for the tailor-made of today calls for a bright touch of colour if it is to be really smart. To match these gay-coloured trimmings and waistcoats, bright-coloured millinery As to be worn. The black velvet hat has lost none of its popularity, but is now trimmed with gay

wings, bright flowers, or ribbons.. A peep at some of the new spring models reveals a perfect riot or colour, which will be a pleasing relief < from the sombre black which we have been wearing ajll through the winter. The new straws are bright, and shiny, and are trimmed with gay-coloured flower® andl ribbons. With regard to the shapes, these seem' to remain for the most' part small 1 ; hut as I have often said, the excessively narrow brims are much too trying for many faces, so I think - we shall' see larger hats with us as the year goes on.

Blouses and bodices all open in the front to-day. And we give a sigh of relief at the thought, and say "How nice andl easy!" recalling our past struggles when left to grapple with the buttons or hooks-and-eyes at the back. But Fashion, dear lady, deems it not w&ll fotr her followers to have all their difficulties removedh when making a toilette. Therefore she has multiplied our buttons, and set them just as close as they can well be, and they are for use, not ornament, so that the fastening of blouse or bodice is a matter of patience and a trial to the temper, especially when dressing in a hurry. Not but what these close fastenings give a very trim and neat appearance, when all's said and done.

A mimber of more or less fanciful designs are to be seen among the tailor-mades, .and as the season advances there will be a greater rage for the lawn and lace collars than ever. Not only will Avhite be seen, but already little under-bodices or waistcoats of pink, blue or mauve linen appear with a neat blue serge coat. These fasten almost to the throat, and have a slightly reminiscent touch of those stiff-fronted shirtc worn by both French and English women — ceratmly eighteen or tAventy years ago. They are smart, and softer looking than those just referred to. One cannot help Avondering if the hard, straight-brimmed sailor hat, Avhich accompanied the stiff-fronted shirt, will find its Avay to us again. Let us hope not!

It is iioav a foregone conclusion that tagetas glace silk will be a favourite fabric all through, the, coming summer, as much for walking costumes a® for goAvne Avhich are intended to be worn indoors only.

Amongst popular materials for blouses for home wear delaine may be mentioned. This is delightfully soft and cosy, and is sufficiently Avarm to be made up without any lining. If trimmed Avith coloured cross-stitch it is particularly effective, while, on the other hand, some strips of coloured wool embroidery Avhich may be had now so inexpensively will be quite suitable. There is a new pattern for morning and afternoon blouses which has proved to be most becoming. It is cut something on the lines of a Raglan, witn the exception that there is no seam midway across the back, as is usual. There is a seam down the centre back instead, the half of the sleeve and the back being thus cut all in one. This seam, which is part of the sleeve has a narrowing effect, which is not always becoming.