Fashions Up-to-date.

Observer, Volume XXXV, Issue 46, 24 July 1915, Page 21

Fashions Up-to-date.

By Myra

FOR skirts, the general rule is that they are wider all around, and we may as well make up out mimds to the fact that the long straight skirts we have been wearing are quite useless 1 nowadays, and must be put entirely out of commission—that ifl, of course, as skirts, if the material is good, however, they may be madie use of in, many ways for entirely different purposes. Silk and satin, crepe d« chine, and some lighter silk and wool mixtures may be fadthlionedl in/to tpetticoatis; cotton or linen fabrics will make excellent working aprona; while serge tweed or cloth can' be cut clown to make coats, caps, or frocks for children. Where none of these ideas are carried out, it is best to give away the articles at once to someone who will make uee of them, and in these days there are many avldo would be glad of help in tlhis direction.

There is not a dbubt of it, that the women of uncertain! age faces nrach danger in rushing in and adopting the new fashions wholesale. The new short skirts have such a fascinating way of making every woman look extremely youthful from a dlistance. But there is something grotesque in the actuality, when one comes close to a girlishly short-skirted figure, and finds that she is a grey-haired matron. Nothing could be more sensible than short skirts for winter wear, but except for the young and . slim,, it would be wiser for women to choose the skirt 3£ inches off the ground rather than that which is 5£ or even 7 inches from the floor.

The extreme shortness of our skirts raises boots to the level of the most important part of the toilette. With so nrucih boot being revealed!-to-the critical eye of the public, we must be frightfully particular about the choice of footwear this season. Many women are wearing the boot, of patent leather with white cloth nipper®, and, when spotlessly white, they are smart enough, though they make tihe foot look much bigger than it really is, but when these uppers are soiled', which, alas! they too frequently are, the effect is disastrous, giving a common, slovenly appearance, and quite spoiling the effect of the whole toilette. The patent leather boot with black or tan uppers, is the softest, and smartest mode wearing with short frocks.

This is undoubtedly a year of trimmings; the plainer the costume and cut, the more trimming has always been applied to it. They begin in a small way, these trimmings, with braidings, tiny strappings of cloth, and, on evening gowns, single rows of diamante or other trimming. The military braidings began in simple frogs across the coat-fronts; now they extend to the skirts, and several of the new tailor-mades show braidings on the skirts and sleeves as well. On evening gowns, especially black ones, trimmings of jet are increasingly pojpul'aa-, used in crossed bands amd in the new "jet tulle," one of the very newest and most original of oirnamenitatioins. It is made by the yard in almost any width, is as light as the proverbial feather, and presents what is apparently an unbroken, sheet of glittering ]et to the world of fashion. * * *

Plenty of dainty cuffs and collars are necessary, but a supply of these can easily be kept on hand, and those, that dk> mot wash well can be cleaned with petrol at a very small expenditure of time and money, and will come out of the process> as good as new. Another dainty notion, very much in vogue is the wearing of a posyor, as our French cousins call it, "a "boutonniere." These trifles are pinned on the coat, or the blouse.

Mourning fashions for widows have undergone many changes within the last few years, and no longer are heavy crape bonnets and veils worn, except in the case of quite elderly women. A crape veil hanging from the back of a small roundi het is a style adopted by many younger widows, some of whom—indeed, the majority—dispense altogether with this appendage. In any case, the crape is not worn over the face, a net or lace veil is all that is necessary, and , it is certainly much more hygienic. For tlhe back veil, or "weepers," a© it used to be called, a fine nun's veiling or ninon is sometimes used, as either is lighter to wear than, the orape. Little white lawn collar® and cuffs are almost invariably worn by widows, and, needless to say, no jewellery except jet is permissible. * * * A friend' has told me of an excellent way to renovate black cloth or any black woollen material. I have not tried it myself, but she tells me it is very effective. It is simply a concoction of fig leaves. Boil a handful in two qoiarts of water till the liquid is redluced to about a pint, rub the material with a piece of sponge dipped in this, then press.

Black silk which has seen its best days oa.n be revived by being thoroughly sponged with benzine, then ironed under damp muslin. Black silk ribbone cam be washed in lukewarm water and a little soap, rolled up in a towel for an hour or two, and then ironed. Treated in this way, they will look as good! as new.

Guaging is a new feature, and forms the prettiest of trimmings when tried in conjunction with quaintly flowered silks and cottons. The coatee bodice is another charming innovation of this season.

Slhall we ever tire of wearing blouses? people thought that when the one-piece dress came in, it would oust the blouse from its pride of place in our wardrobes; and so it may have done for a short time. But the blouse has come back again into the favour o£_ even the very few who discarded it for a while, and now reignls supreme. Blouses, blouses, andi more blouses —in every conceivable shape, colour and material—are seen everywhere, and on every occasion. The morning blouse, the afternoon blouse, the evening blouse, the tailored blouse, the shirt blouse, the dressy; blouseall are seen in infinite variety; and when one comes to think quietly over matters of dress, one comes to the conclusion that blouses form the predominant feature , of our dress in every respect. Never was a more useful garment invented, and never will its popularity cease, apparently-

With a good supply of blouses, a coat and skirt, and a silk skirt, a woman is equipped for all occasions, and in these days of stress, when every "woman is oonieidering "ways and means, and 1 trying to make one shilling do the work of at least two,

the economy of the blouse is made dtooibly manifest. Take the ordinary woman's life, for example. When she gets up in the morning, she dresses in> a blouse and skirt. If she is going out, she adds a coat. In the afternoon, a silk (or silk and wool mixture) skirt can be worn with a blouse of the same, or a contrasting material. In the evening the same skirt will do duty, and the blouse can be changed for a more diressy one of lace, net, or ninOTi. For visiting, a coat and 1 skirt, with a good blouse, is the usual wear. For afternoon parties the same .costume is cj.udte permissible, especially in the winter. If the entertainment is a large and fashionable one (but there will be very few such this season), a smarter costume will be necessary, but can easily be evolved 1 by getting ia good blouse, and having a skirt, and coatee, or shoulder straps or sleeveless bolero of taffetas, velvet, or satin to wear with it. If the blouse is purchased or made separately it can be worn oin many different occasions, a.nd when worn or soiled, can be replaced with a new one. Most of the new veils are either made of fine Russian net, with a

beauty of patch, added at an effective point, or of the finest shadow lace. Some of the prettiest of them are gathered' in under the chin, and bordered with a very na-rrow band of fur. This bamd of fur is finished at the ends with a small hook and eye, and in this way the veil is confined at the neck, and looks trim and neat.