Fashions Up-to-date.

Observer, Volume XXXV, Issue 45, 17 July 1915, Page 21

Fashions Up-to-date.

By Mxra.

THERE is no abatement in the popularity of khaki. An afternoon gown of khaki serge, with a wide black moire sash between its Sleated skirt and "jumper" bodice, ad a white lingerie vest, and a very short coatee of black gabardine. A khaki taffeta frock, gauged and piqued', had effective touches of nattier blue. In, Paris, the rage for khaki is even more pronounced; it is one of the outward manifestations of Anglomania, and Paris has not only arrayed herself in it, but is even decorating her walls with it. Tail-or-made coats and skirts, when not black j are khaki-colouredj . and fashioned as nearly as possible on the lines of our soldiers' uniforms. The light shade, with, plenty of yellow in> it, worn by the officers of the Indian army, finds more favour than the darker English variety, with its hint of green, and it is relieved by facings of black and white check Slain white, pale yellow, or scarlet. Ivening frocks made of tulle or chiffon in khaki tones are decidedly alluring, and uncommon looking, especially when finished off with a touch of scarlet, such as a posy of geraniums or poppies, tucked into a waistbelt of gold tissue. The Parisians are even exploiting the possibilities of khaki for children's clothes, little boys being put into tiny khaki uniforms, in which they look very quaint, while for little girls a straight frock, in Kate Greenaway style, with deep pockets at the sides, and the inevitable black patent-leather belt, is a favourite design. A pretty school dress for a little girl is in khaki-coloured • cloth or cotton, of the "jumper" variety —ilong-waisted, with the very short pleated skirt so beloved by Parisian mothers for their little girls. The frock should have belt, collar, and cuffs of scarlet, and* be worn with scarlet socks or stockings and brown leather shoes or sandals.

With regard to the new skirts, pleats of varying degrees are seen in all the tailor-mades, while gathers are the order of the clay for afternoon and evening frocks. Nearly all the skirts in heavy materials are made with a hip-yoke, and the skirt proper stitched into it in pleats, either at back or front, leaving the sides plain,, or else all around. Some models, chiefly those in shepherd's plaid or tartans, are made exactly like a Scotch kilt; deep pleats from waist to hem, folded in so much that when the wearer is standing still, the skirt looks almost —but not quite! —like an ordinary straight, narrow skirt. On a slim and girlish figure this style is very fascinating, but is, of course, not at all suitable for any but girls in their teens or early twenties. Some of our lead-

irig tailors that their clients will not wear the extremely short skirt that the Parisian fashion-mak-ers have set the seal of their approv al upon. ' Five and a half inches from the -ground was to be the longest possible skirt, but in Australia the women, are still asking for, and getting, their costumes made the customary three to three and a half inches out of the dust. For why? They simply could not show so much feet, they declared. But if the feet are well-shod, there is no reason at all why % the skirts should not be six or seven inches from the ground. A well-out, well-fitting, highest-grade boot need never be ashamed to show; itself, be it large or small; it is only the down-at-heel, shabby, badly cleaned and broHen-jlaced footwear that needs a long skirt to hide its blushes; so if you buy the very best of footwear (which is .always an economy in the end, by the way) you may wear your skirts any length you like, and be unashamed!

Though very much curtailed—on account of the war—the season's choice of materials makes up in quality what it lacks in quantity. The tailor-mades are mostly to be fashioned, of fine, closely woven serge or covert coating, for everyone this year, has, of necessity, a shrewd oye to the question of economy. To be smart as well as economical, one must buy the best materials only, for one suit of a good fabric will wear out two or three of cheaper material, and thus be less costly, as well a® looking better all the time. Very light, easily soiled, or crumpled textures, no matter how cheap they apparently are to begin with, are not in the least economical, for they are always being _ either washed or cleaned. The übiquitous blue serge, gabardine, or covert coating will be the chief standby of the busy woman who has to economise time as well as .money; for, after all, the time spent—or rather wasted—in the constant changing of clothes is enormous.

Many women are already wearing black and many more will, of a sad certainty, soon be donning the sombre garb of mourning; but in the wearing there must surely be some pride as well as pain, for the wearer has given a loved' one for King and oountry, and there is proud significance in her mournful apparel.

There have been suggestions from many influential people that those who have lost relatives should refrain from wearing black and wear purple or black armlets as a substitute. It is a difficult question, and the decision must be with the individual, whose feelings play so important a part in the matter. The idea is that, as unfortunately there will be few of us who will not lose someone dear to us during this dreadful war, the effect of so much black; will be terribly depressing, and that one's duty is to the living. But,

on the other hand, the wearing of black is a tacit bond of sympathy between all who are left behind, as well as being a token of respect for the dear and brave dead.

All-important in mourning dresses is neatness and the choice of suitable materials. The fabric chosen should have a dull surface, and no trimming but crape or a dull silk is permissible. The custom of wearing crap«, which had almost become obsolete. ..is, we hear, being revived: in England, and more crape is being usi-cl than for many a year past. It is not the old-fashioned stiff material, but a new fabric, with all the scftneMs of charmeuse or chiffon, which lends itself in the most successful and effective way to draperies and trimmings. It is rainproof, moreover, a fact which will be appreciated by those who remember the disastrous result of a shower of rain on the crape of days gone by.

In this model a straight length of embroidered voile flouncing is gathered to a hip yoke, the bodice is arranged with Raglan shoulders.