Fashions Up-to-date.

Observer, Volume XXXIV, Issue 24, 21 February 1914, Page 21

Fashions Up-to-date.

Br Myra.

EVEN though it is midsummer and news of clothes is quiescent, there are many interesting things to talk about. * * •

Clothes have a tremendous psychological effect on us, I think. If we dress so as to look cool I am firmly convinced that we feel coo) When we look at a woman swathed in furs we feel warm immediately. When we look at a woman dressed in white or pastel tint we immediately feel cool. This is why I always urge Australian women to follow the example of those who live in India and dress for the climate.

A charming mid-summer gown is made of the wide-meshed net that is so fashionable just at present. The underskirt is of white charmeuse and lace. You will understand, I hope, that although the fabric is' transparent, the underskirt is of stuff that veils the figure. There is nothing to my mind more hideous than the so-called X-Eay gowns. I like the X-Eay hats, but the gowns that reveal so nmcn of the figure are utterly vulgar for daytime wear. And, frankly, they are barely possible at night unless one is in one's own home. Then, too, only a good figure can stand such frankness.

It is not necessary to wear more than one underskirt, but that must be opaque. A heavy weight of charmeuse or crepe de chine used for the under robe satisfies all the conventions, to my mind.

For wear with evening dress rich women are indulging in undergarments of crepe de chine. Although in the long run this material is not expensive when its wearing and washing qualities are taken into consideration, its initial expense is too high for those who are not blessed with a large purse, but if the articles are made at home its place can easily be taken by Japanese silk. Underclothing, waras 'well as thin, is essential with evening frocks. Japanese silk has these qualities, and is cheap also in the first place.

The smart woman uses a parasol as a charming accessory to be carried gracefully. It makes a delightful finishing touch to a toilette, and since it is very important that it should harmonise exactly with both the colour and the degree of smartness of the costume worn, it follows that the well-dressed woman is obliged to possess a considerable variety. For the morning she will carry a parasol in f aille # or moire of a plain green, blue, crimson or suede colour. The rather massive handle made of a stick of curved wood achieves the desired effect of simplicity. For the afternoon, when a more elegant parasol is needed, there are parasols made of black Chantilly, veiling a foundation of taffeta or of white mousseline with a narrow velvet border.

This season the array of bordered stuffs is particularly effective, but these are necessarily expensive, and are, therefore, more or less exclusive.

It is true, too, that bordered materials require more care in handling than do plain goods, but it does not necessarily follow that a highpriced dressmaker must be sought in order to have them handled with skill.Any clothes maker who "feels" the gowns she is creating can develop a charming frock from bordered materials. The vogue for drapery makes it possible to use bordered materials in many ways not dreamed of in past seasons. There is nothing symmetrical in the draping of the smartest frocks, the skirts are fairly bundled around the figure, pulled up to the waist line in front or bunched up in the back to make the front of the skirt longer. One side of the skirt may be crossed over the other in apparently the most careless manner.

The draping of the waists is even simpler: the fichu is the favoured mode, and the border of the goods is just the very thing to use for this fichu. Borders likewise lend themselves easily to broad revers and draped collars. They are stunning when applied to the fascinating draped wraps, the border forming a decoration at the bottom of the garment, which does away with any necessity for lace or embroidery. Or it may be used for the long burnoose hood.

No matter how hot the season, every woman feels she must possess a coat suit of some kind for everyday wear, if necessary, or for the cool occasions which present themselves.

One of the most charming fashions for many years is the pretty little coat of satin, ninon, or tulle, which can be slipped on at a moment's notice over practically any sort of semi-evening frook. TTor renovating a last year's gown they are invaluable, and can be worn on all occasions. The printed ninons so much in vogue are excellent lor the purpose, and as only a small quantity of material is required, they are not really an extravagance. A last season's black satm frock takes a fresh lease of life if worn with a coat of black lace over white tulle—to quote only one possibility in connection with so useful a garment as a black satin dress.