Fashions Up-to-date.

Observer, Volume XXXIV, Issue 23, 14 February 1914, Page 21

Fashions Up-to-date.

By Myra.

THE short tunic is very noticeable in evening toilettes, and is made of transparent materials as a rule, and trimmed with pleating, a ruche, or with narrow fur. • * *

Wide hips and narrow shoulders are the order just now, and the prominence given to the hips helps to accentuate the narrow shoulder effect.

The fashion of combining plain and figured fabrics in the one costume has acquired much popularity, and for medium-weight walking suits, as well as evening and afternoon dresses, there is no more fascinating idea. I saw, recently, a skirt of silk poplin, slightly draped on the right side, worn -with a basqued blouse of brocaded velvet, which had a collar of real Irish crochet finishing the V* shaped neck. The whole costume was very effective, and might easily be carried out in a colour, as well as the black which composed the original design.

Many of the silk and wool materials are shown in plain and figured to unatch, and these are exceptionally good for ordinary wear. This idea is an excellent one when renovating is to be thought of, for it is so easy to freshen up a dress that has become slightly the worse for wear, by the addition of some new material. For example, a figured voile or muslin might, at the end of the summer, be made to do duty for a few weeks longer by cutting away the loSver part of the skirt, and substituting a band of plain coloured voile in a tone to match the dominant colour of the figured material. A sailor collar and turnedback cuffs might be added, which would quite effectively renew the soiled parts" of the frock.

A quite original way of carrying out this two-fabric idea is seen in the Russian blouses of striped cotton material, or creme serge, to be worn over narrow straight skirts of navy serge for boating, yachting, etc. They are certainly much more utilitarian than the whole costume in the light colour; and when white shoes and gloves are worn, and a smart hat with a touch of some favourite colour, the toilet is very effective for its own special purpose.

Lingerie gowns are, of course, in great demand during the hottest month of the year, and one of the most charming models I have seen was made over black muslin. It had a very open design of embroidered stripes and a deep border, and the bodice opening, which was cut very low, was filled in with finely tucked net. It had a wide swathed belt of black satin, and a deep sailor collar, arranged also in black satin. The toilet was completed by a black hat, white gloves,

and a white parasol, and was an ideal " black and white " model for a warm day.

Another muslin frock with a printed border of pink roses and a ribbon edge in a deeper tone, had a quaint skirt, which was arranged from a single length of the bordered muslin. This started on the right side at full length, and formed a slightly full skirt until it commenced to cross the right side when it gradually decreased, and wound across the figure, thus forming a graceful drapery, which ended on the left side under a deep sash of cerise ribbon to tone.

Some of the silk mull-muslins have beautiful designs in colour, and make lovely frocks for afternoon or semi-evening wear during the hottest days. Some have chintz designs; others are scattered all over with single blossoms, birds, or prim little nosegays of tiny flowers. Another material which is largely used is the printed cotton voile with a border of ratine; and other favourites are the old-fashioned dimities, silk crepes, voiles, cotton crepes, Chinese crepes, ( .|.o p ., nrion, crepe meteor, and so o", ad infinitum. It is astonishing the number of different fabrics now made with a crepe finish, and new ones .«eem to be shown each day There is to be a perfect rage for satin or brocade vests for the autumn coats, and they will be, of course, quite severe in cut and outline. Some women have extra vests made of various materials to fit neatly into the coat, and secured by means of press-

studs, and thus " ring the changes" with good effect and a minimum of expenditure. Others, again, have white pique slips made up to fit just inside the line of their coat-fronts, as men wear white slips inside their vests with morning coats. These "vestlets" have the advantage of coming out to be washed in the usual way.

A fascinating adaptation of the vest idea is the tiny lace waistcoat fastening in front, worn inside the crossover blouses. They may be very easily made of fine white lace, tulle, or net, and finished off where they fasten with a narrow beading, edging, or point-lace braid. Underneath the opposite front, to sew the buttons on to a narrow bit of soft ribbon is stitched. For more ordinary wear, a length of net or sirpilar fabric is simply 'stitched at the back of the blouse, on the neckline, brought round and crossed in front, being fastened on to the camisole or under-slip with tiny brass safety lace-pins. Where the blouse is cut in a rather low V-shape, this is a very charming addition, as it softens the line round the neck, and is certainly very much better for street wear than the entirely open throat, which we often see. It is, withal, most cool and comfortable, and infinitely preferable to the high, boned collars we used to wear.

Floral ribbons are to be much in evidence, and all the newest designs have the patterns heavily splashed cr blurred. The designs are not confined to flowers absolutely, for some very beautiful ribbons, with patterns of fruit, purple grapes and green leaves, for instance, cherries in tones of cerise and green, plums, currants, pomegranates, and various other fruits are seen. So, also, are some wonderful conventional designs; but in all and each of them the actual pattern is so blurred as to be very indistinct. These ribbons will be worn largely for belts and ends, as well as for adding touches of colour under transparent blouses, etc.

The decollete style prevails, and undoubtedly will do so for a long time to come, now that we have experienced the comfort of the neck unhampered with the high collar.

Lace blouses are smart wear, over white or flesh-coloured silk foundations.

Soft crowns, with high brims, are the very newest in millinery, and sotp° of the latest models have a decided frill as brim. The new feather mountsare mostly high, and worn here, there, and everywhere, I might say. For on some shapes they take up a front po-itron. vhil n on others they take are relegated to the back, or are seen on the left side of the wide, upturned brims.

Bodices are comparatively plain in make, skirts being fussy, while longsleeves are adopted for almost aIT ■-owns that are for day wear.

Coats are shorter this season, and the basques of some ot the new models are quite full; but for really pracical wear the plain, well-cut coat and skirt is hard to beat.

One of the fads in Paris at present is the wearing of amber, which has had quite a vogue for some time past, yet seems as popular as ever. Everyone seems to be wearing amber beads, and now amber buttons, hatpins, ec, are being sought after with avidity. Then there are the Chinese ornaments, which are particularly curious and novel. They are in shape of a pendant mounted on vivid coloured silk, knitted un to form a necklace, and showing a' few carefully chosen beads of jade, amethyst, or carved ivory. The colouring introdaced into these necklaces is wonderful, the combination of shades being typical of the Chinese, who put bright amber with lapis-lazuli, or wine-coloured silk or turquoise blue with the most vivid yermilion. The lapis-lazuli and the amethyst, however, are favourites, together with a pale, clear green jade for the amber ornaments, and some of them are very beautiful indeed, and are copied exactly from old Chinese models.