Boudoir Gossip on Frocks and Fashions

Observer, Volume XVI, Issue 925, 3 October 1896, Page 25

Boudoir Gossip on Frocks and Fashions

(By Gladys}.

Jackets plain and jackets slashed, jackets long and jackets short, are in bucli profusion that one is at a loss to decide which is the correct form. White linen lawn vests, with hemstitched tucks and frills down the front and a tarn-over linen collar, are worn with the coat and skirt gown. Green is an extremely popular colour, in all the divers shades imaginable, and pale lime green straw trimmed with blue or purple is one of the picturesque effects commonly seen this season. Fsahionable women have taken up knitting ; have gone back to serving tea on a large tray instead of a newfangled ' table ; christen their children by names that are sedate and Biblical, and cultivate old-fashioned flowers in their gardens. New skirts are perceptibly decreasing in size, and are cut on about the same principle, except that all the front godets are omitted, and those on the Fide as well, leaving three or at most four godets behind. The latest straw hats have a high crown and a brim which curves slightly over the face and straight at the back, while wide black velvet ribbon and feathers with a bunch of flowers tucked under the brim, form the trimming. The correct way to carry the handkerchief at' present is to tuck the little square of linen and lace in one's sleeve at the wrist, allowing it to fall and partially . conceal the hand, somewhat after the manner of the new sleeves. A very stylish skirt is known as the bell skirt, and is cut in one piece with a seam at the centre back. It is gathered slightly across the front, and the fulness at the back may be side plaited or gathered, as preferred. For heavy materials an interlining of haircloth, fibre chamois, or moreen about eight inches deep is all that is necessary, while for light-weight materials it may be eighteen or twenty inches deep. Serge, mohair, whipcord, novelty goods, cloth, or silk may be made up in this way. The skirt measures four yards at the lower edge. Shirt waists remain as popular as ever, and are as varied in style and trimming as other articles of dress. The prettiest of all are the silk ones, made exactly like the percales, and worn with a black satin stock collar, while the embroidered muslin shirts, with white linen collar and cuffs, are very dainty, and those of fine ecru batiste, trimmed with narrow Valenciennes lace or fine embroidery, are useful and cool as well as pretty. The one novelty in "cotton waists is seen in the sleeves, where the stripes run around instead of up and down, while the shirt necktie has Bapplanted the long tie worn last year. A very handsome and attractive waist is in striped changeable silk and velvet It is shaped in a point at the front and back and curved gracefully over the hips. A smooth vest of velvet is arranged upon the fitted lining that is closed at the centre front. The full fronts are shirred from the shoulder to a short distance below the bust to form a frill at the front edge, and are gathered at the armhole, also at the underarm, forming a puff between, and the fulness is laid in closely lapped plaits at the lowtr edge. The mili nil back is fitted; smoothly across the shoulders and has the fnlness laid in tiny plaits at the waist line. A plain Rtanding collar covered by a prettily wrinkled stock of ribbon arranged in full loops at the back completes the neck. A twist of velvet outlines the lower edge of the waist, aud cuds in a full bow at the back The one seamed gigot sleeves are shirred at the top and droop in a graceful way above the elbow. This waist will make up well in serge, mohair, cheviot,and various other wool diess goods in combination with velvet, silk, or contrasting material.