Boudoir Gossip on Frocks AND Fashions

Observer, Volume XIV, Issue 793, 10 March 1894, Page 14

Boudoir Gossip on Frocks AND Fashions

(Br Gladys.)

Myrrh used as a tooth-wash will keep the breath sweet.

Sassafras oil is said to be excellent for darkening the hair.

Some noted beauties bathe their face, neck, and arms in fresh buttermilk once a day.

Slender women only can wear with grace the skirts that are raffled to the waist.

Empire scarfs of black and cream laces are graceful and picturesque additions to costumes.

If you are going to the sea shore get a Tarn O' Shanter. They are such comfortable things, and the occasions will be many when you will find a chance to wear one. The prettiest are of white angora wool, lined with silk and with a silk pompons.

White cambric aprons, that almost cover the frock, are in great favour for Bmall girls, and the simplest models fall full and straight from a low yoke-like piece, while others have a low round waist and full skirt, and still others fall straight and full in front, with a round fitted back, to which the Bkirt is gathered.

Fuller's earth is one of those things which no family should be without. When grease has been spilled upon the carpet, a paste of magnesia and Fuller's earth in equal partß, mixed with boiling water, should be applied and let dry. When it is hard, brush the powder away and the grease spots will have disappeared. Fuller's earth and benzine will remove e tains from marble.

Bonnets and hats are made in almost every shape. They are widebrimmed, with the sides, front, or back pinched, crimped, or turned in any way the fancy may dictate, and are sometimes bent very close to the head in a sort of poke shape, small bonnets are smaller than ever, but they are generally pretty and becoming. Jet hats and bonnets are still in favor, and with bright bits of trimming, delicately-tinted aigrettes, or rare lace, can be made to enhance the loveliness of either an old or young face.

In hair-dressing the favourite styles are the 1830 and Louis XV. and XV I. For the first the hair is worn twisted off the nape of the neck into a Bharp knot, or an upright bow of ribbon is made to give Die same effect, for the other it is dressed very full and curly in front with a low chignon. In Paris, ears are at a discount, as it the correct thing not to let them be seen. Ribbons will ba used in the hair and in long, fluttering bows on dresses and bodices, on the shoulders, and in everyway imaginable, but we must bear in mind that this style, however becoming it may be to very young girls, is quite unßuited to any one else.

Simple styles are best for cotton dresseß, and those that are to go in the family wash should be made without lining, and loosely fitted, to allow for shrinkage. The skirt, of four breadths, the back straight, the others gored rather closely, is hemmed widely, and scrapes the floor. The waist is prettily finished with a turnedover collar, a scarf of the same, and a Swiss belt. Though new cotton fabrics have come into use, many ladies prefer gingham for daily wear. These should be made without lining, and trimmed with ruffles of the dress goods, and white embroidery in the popular open-wheel and star patterns, with insertions and edgings to match in design. Batiste, dimity, lawn, organdy and white muslin are also very popular for summer frocks, the batistes being employed for afternoon and rather elaborate occasions. Surplice effects in corsages are especially adapted to cotton fabrics, and are sure to be extremely popular. For slight and delicate figures they are shirred on the shoulders, and finished with wide and fall revers, which tape? to a point, following the crossed fronts.

The basque here represented is made of mode kersey of light weight. The fronts of the body are widened by gores to close in double-breasted fashion, and are reversed at the top in lapels, between which are disclosed lining fronts that pass into the shoulder and under-arm seams and close to the throat with button-holes and buttons, the lining having a vest effect. The adjustment of the basque is due to the usual number of darts and seams, and the neck is completed with a standing collar. The circular ripple skirt is shaped by a centre seam and is joined smoothly to the lower edge of the basque, its upper corners meeting below the closing of the basque. The leg o' mutton sleeves are shaped by inside seams only, are arranged upon smooth linings, and are box-plaited at the top. They are rendered fanciful by the addition of ripple oaps, which have short seams under the arms. Patterns for this may be obtained from Me W. P. Ogilvie, Wellesley-street, Auckland.

Miniature cruets for the breakfast table take the form of china tulips, the tinted petals of the flowers curling back to reveal an oval interior of silver, the top of which bears tiny perforations.

There is a new way of wearing neck scarves, a revival of an old fashion. They are simply tied in a knot and the ends brought over, so that they are wide, and a pin thrust through them in the centre, the ends being tucked in under the waistcoat waistband. Some of the newest blouses are tucked across with gathered tuckinga.

A novelty in shoes for evening wear is made of heavy satin in the new shade of heliotrope known as eminence purple. Over the instep, lending itself to the graceful curves of the foot, is a large purple pansy, perfectly modelled in shaded velvet, which contains all the exquisite O olors found in the natural flower.

Close belts of gilt wire are now made of untarnishable metal.

Coats show very large sleeves and much more extended skirt portions than has been the case till now. There are single-breasted as well as double-breasted effects, but the latter seem to be preferred.

Black and brown felt sailor hats are the stylish winter head covering. Brown and blaok are the aocepted colours, and the latest caprioe in trimming them is to encircle the crown with wreaths of velvet roses. If the hat is black, roseg Bhading from the deep red of the meteor rose to pale pink are considered the most stylish. For brown hats the roses run from yellow to a seal brown, and while manifestly unlike any other flower ever seen, the colour effect is pretty. Standing loops, combining the different shades of velvet, give the desired height.

Brown furs are as popular as ever, and beaver otter seem to have even better prospects than usual. Otter capes, trimmed with mink are seen, and beaver with darker furs, while a long beaver cape, out in circular shape, and hanging in deep folds from the neck, is bordered with a roll of seal. The pointed collarette, similarly bordered, reaohes almost to the waist, and slashed up the back to the neck.

One of the new fancies in trimmings is the waved or serpentine braid of Bilk and mohair, in Heroules and more novel weaves. It comes in all widths, and is placed on gowns and wraps of the most expensive fabrics. Satin folds are now edged with braid or gimp and if one can only afford the time and patience, the embroideied bands form exquisite trimmings. Ruffles for skirts and sleeves in many cases are edged with a fine silk ooxd of a contrasting shade, which makes a dainty finish.

Britannia metal that needs cleaning should be rubbed first with a cloth saturated with sweet oil, then washed in warm sudß and wiped dry with a very soft cloth. To restore the polish make apaßte of whiting and water, cover the artiole with it, and polish with a piece of chamois.

Thin materials, such, as grenadine, barege, or batiste, have the skirts made of silk and covered entirely with gathered flounces of the material. Five flounces of graduated width, out bias and gathered very full, are in great favour for elaborate summer frocks. They are simply hemmed, and are gathered without heading, each flounce lapping about; two inches over that below it. From a third to a half extra fullness is added to the lower flounces. When made of grenadine, narrow purling, like that edging ribbon, is added to the hem, or the narrowest edging of lace, in points or eoollopß, ia used.