FASHION NOTES.

Observer, Volume 7, Issue 236, 21 March 1885, Page 10

FASHION NOTES.

Bx " Jennx When."

Muffs are of crape for the first few months,, then of silk, of Astrakan, or any black fur. A neat little toque is of black lace, studded with steel pins, plume of black and red feathers in front, secured by a steel brooch.. A very pretty costume of apple-green vigogne consists of a pleated skirt and polonaise, the full plastron extending to form thedraped tablier; collar and paretnents of j myrtle-green velvet. Most theatre wraps and sorties de bal areedged with fur this winter, especially with, ermine, blue fox, and black fox. A sortiede bal of rose pink or red satin looks very handsome edged with black fox. i A very neat and pretty costume for a little girl is made of navy blue cloth; casaque trimmed with revers ; parements and waistcoat of a navy blue woollen fabric, spotted with red chenille ; silver clasps and buttons. Beaded net and lace is not used by childrenMany evening dresses for them are being made of cream cashmere, trimmed with handsome cream braid, which is divided in. three or four rows of gold open work insertions. Xo lace is employed on these toilettes. Walking dresses are not of much account just now, because the greater part of the winter confections are made exceedingly long. The pointed sleeve is very fashionable for mantles, especially the pelerine sleeve r . •descending to form a long pointed panel in front, and then abruptly ascending to the turnure. A pretty toilette, called the Charnevalle toilette, is composed of vert cresson vigogne ;. plain skirt, edged with five rows of velvet ;, draped tablier and paniers of vigogne ; mantelet of vigogne, with pleated fronts. The sleeves extend to the middle of the back toform the pelerine ; the fronts are edged with chenille, and a chenille embroidery encircles, the neck, as also does a velvet collar. The lagrande toilette is composed of a -plain. skirt of crocodile skin, plush cloth polonaise,, with short tablier ornamented with plain plush straps and silver buttons ; full looped cloth drapery at the back. On the left is a. bow of plush secured to the skirt by cloth straps ; corsage of cloth, fastened by plush straps and buttons. Plush belt, with silverbuttons ; straps and band of plush on the sleeve. The materials prepared for the coming- k season's court and ball toilettes have been. J| made magnificent by embroideries of silk,, chenille, and, above all, by beads. Thematerials themselves are comparatively simple, tulle and satin being principally used, but the rich nature of the embroidery, the sparkling- beads, the delicate colours employed help to make them peculiarly splendid and striking. Hats with velvet brims and feather crowns, are very becoming to some faces, and, therefore, they are always reappearing amongst winter chapeause. A pretty model for a blonde has the crown covered with the neck feathers of a peacock. The shape is novel, the crown being high and corniceds like a clown's hat, instead of being flat oxdomed like a turban or toque. The brim isof pleated peacock blue velvet, veiled with gold lace, and an aigrette of peacock'sfeathers is placed in front. This hat can only be worn, however, with a blue toiletteof the same color. Terry velvet or ribbed velvet has superseded plush and plain velvet for boys'" evening suits, although plush is still preferred by some. ' ' Terry "is a somewht misleading term just now, because it is applied to ribbed velvet, and English houses are calling, by the name of " terry" velvet, thenew material which the French call tielours/rise, and which is not velvet at all in our acceptance of the term. Velvet, except as bows, holds no place among the materials for young girls' evening dresses, although it -is employed for the casaques of children's costumes at juvenile parties. A ball toilette for a young married lady is made of white broche and white tulle, em.--broidered with pendants of transparent white glass beads. The plain skirt and train are of white broche. The corsage is of broche, ornamented with a full, loose plastron of beaded tulle, which falls in artistic folds down the front of the skirt by way of tablier and is looped at the tournure on the left! On the right side is one of the new sash bows of white moire ribbon, the ends of JP which nearly reach the ground. A bertheand elbow sleeves of the beaded tulle complete the toilette, which is decorated withr plumes of white ostrich feathers in place of flowers. Black kid gloves are not allowable for deep mourning. They must be of black silk or black Swedde. The stockings should be of silk or filossele, and the over petticoat of black woollen like Indian cashmere,, or merino or any fabric without gloss. JSTo white lingere must be worn, and this is one -*j| of the most unbecoming traits in deep - mourning. The skin needs to be fair,, indeed, in order to be independent of a touch of white at the throat. This disagreeable necessity is laid aside with thedeep mourning. Chapeaux for the second period of mourning can be of straw, felt, chenille, or jet, trimmed with spino-le" materials, with ottoman ribbon, and even feathers, during the latter months.