THE OBSERVER'S PARIS LETTER.

Observer, Volume 7, Issue 235, 14 March 1885, Page 8

THE OBSERVER'S PARIS LETTER.

Speciaixy Wbitten cor the Ladies

Paris, January 17

At the commencement of the present century it was the mode to wear the hair short, such as is represented in the portraits of the Queen Hortense and Mesdames Talien and Bicamier. The same fashion is now being revived, and further, ladies prefer wearing their own hair, and not the locks borrowed from other crowns. This hair is worn in bands, or can be replaced with, flowers ; the fashion admits of much jewellery, and diamonds, being worn, flat over the hair. Bracelets can thus be utilised to advantage. In the case of velvet, brocade, and damask toilettes the Seuigne fashion of dressing the hair suits best. Since two seasons the attempt has been continued to introduce powder, the number, however, 'of the voltaircs of this head dress does not appear to bo augmenting.

The mantle most generally worn is the large red ingote, in black velvet, deeply covered with jet ; the lining is frequently in colored silk.

Some pretty bagatelles have appeared in jewellery, and where old silver appears to hold its own. One bracelet is a model of a whip or strap, with a kind of horse shoe fastening. Sculptured designs are in vogue for bracelets. Ladies are determined that their pet poodles shall at least look lovely ; it is thus that terriers display a ring with a precious stone setting on their left paws : others have " bracelets " and lockets. This surpasses the time when the nursery lady had, besides bells on her fingers, rings on her toes. Bull dogs, of the Lilliputian type, have jewelled garters on all their paws, or collars in nickel, with red cloth lining.

Another proof of the tendency to return to tho manners of the eighteenth century, is the passion with which the minuet is pursued. Professors of dancing have opened special classes to suit the whim of the day. It was in Madrid, however, that the revival has originated: the "upper ten" next patronised it during the summer at Trouville, and now it has taken up its quarter iv Paris — -not a ball programme, but has the minuet included.

As was to be expected, theatre Italiens lias failed. M. Mauvel attempted to establish the theatre permanently, but has had to relinquish the attempt after losing his private fortune in the speculation. The failure is attributed to the star system, -vhich devours the lion's share of the receipts. Another cause consists in depending for support on a necessarily limited public and exorbitant prices. It is the low paying places on which the solvability of managers rest. Again, there are no new operas in the Italian repertoire, and the o^l ones are worn thread bare. M. Maurel announces he will sue Patti for breach of engagement. But he may rest assured it will be a long day ere he sees the diva singing here, and so enable

him to attach her salary to pay damages. Patti's fee is too high for Parisians, so they prefer to do without her costly notes. Further, Patti is very disgusted at the courts having pronounced her divorce suit dead against her, so as to prevent her from inai'rying Nicolini.

Sardou's Oriental " Theodora " has enabled Sarah Bernhardt to win new laurels. The wife of the Oriental emperor has found in the intrigues of her station, and the conspiracies surrounding the throne, a perfect field for the numerous phases of her talent ; whether disposing of political enemies, rival lovers, or fortune-tellers, she is equally triumphant. Her salary is 1500 francs a night ; her creditors, who have claims against her for half-a-million, have been allowed to sequester the two-thirds of it.

The winter promises to continue severe, and a great deal of distress prevails. I never remember a season when so many ladies have come forward to work in the alleviation of jjoverty ; up to the present all that duty was left to the sisters of charity. Indeed, in this sense woman's mission is becoming better understood, and it is their own sex which receives special attention, because less has been done hitherto to ameliorate its sufferings.

The lyceums and colleges for young* ladies, under the auspices of the Government, are proving very successful. The testimony of their utility is unanimous. The age of the young ladies' boarding-school, with the piano, the use of the globes, and all the historical etceteras, will soon be a thing of the past. Many of the colleges take a certain number of interim pupils, and these are for the future to receive practical instruction in culinary matters. The widow of Jules Favore is the directiree of the normal establishment which trains the lady professors. In France, a girl without a dot, that is to say, a fortune, has small chance of winning a husband. The girls educated iv the lyceums find now ro difficulty in getting married, irrespective of possessing fortunes. They cannot, in being thus methodically and seriously educated, fail to make their husbands better men, and their country more important and powerful.