FASHION NOTES.

Observer, Volume 6, Issue 152, 11 August 1883, Page 10

FASHION NOTES.

! Buckles are ali'c&ej'rage. Ottoman ribbons are in high favour. Gold braid is very stylish and much worn. The fashion of sealing letters is on the increase. Sun umbrellas are to match the colour of the dress, and are mounted on thick oaken sticks, handles studded with gold. The Fedora bonnet has a pointed brim and puffed crown, and is made up in the yellow silks and laces that Sarah Bernhai'dt brought into fashion. A recent novelty in screens consists in the iusertion of a central piece in each panel of heavy cretonne, with a tapestry design, which iB deeply bordered top and bottom by plush. Leghorn hats are among the revivals of this season, the large Gainsborough leaf being of chip or Leghorn, the front turned up, and covered with puffed velvet or lace. The Leghorn plait is now dyed brown, grey, or chocolate. Velvet will be used for trimming throughout the summer in bands on the skirt and corsage, especially with plaid and chequered zephyr 9 and many-coloured cashmere chintzes. A sash of ribbon velvet is also worn with them, tied loosely in front with long flowing ends. The now hats include the Sir Peter Lely, Sir Joshua Reynolds, and other large picturesque shapes, copied from Flemish, Spanish, and other pictures. Some of the brims are immensely wide, and have for trimming a wreath of strawberries and green leaves set into a bed of green moss. Parasols are all of a large size, and carefully chosen to suit the dress, whatever it may be. Deep lace falls are used as bordering, either in black or ecru. The handles have large hooked ends or rings to slip over the wrist ; flots of ! ribbon flutter from the top of the sunshade, as well as make gay the handles. Shoulder capes are made of lace, chenille fringe, or in gauze puffed on a foundation. The ! newest have long ends in front, which are either left loose, crossed over and pinned, or the ends thrown over in a half tie. The shoulder seam is in every instance set in full, like a dress-sleeve. j Some few capes fasten on one shoulder with a large flower or brooch. Among other pretty dainties which fashionable young ladies are preparing for summer wear — works of their own hands — are garden-party hats of ficelle lace, lining the inside of crown and brim with pale-blue or rose-coloured surah or Canton crape. Another fancy is to run black velvet ribbon through the meshes, finishing with a knot of velvet on the top of the crown. Braiding is still in favour. Gold braiding is one of those trimmings which may either make or mar the effect of a dress. To braid dark navy blue serge with gold would once have been looked upon as an error of taste. But since the I Princess of "Wales appeared in a navy blue serge, having a vest and cuffs of crimson silk with rows of gold braid, .criticism is no longer unfavourable. Bonnets have changed yevy little either in shape or trimming. The Olivia front and coalscuttle divide popular taste with the small capote. Plaits of straw, braid, or gutta-percha — all three being made in varied colours — or in gold, steel, or silver plaits afford endless variety, and the trimmings of gold pompons or flowers, with the addition of a little lace, decides the character of the bonnet altogether, whether it be for dress occasions or to do homely duty. The two most general styles of skirts are eer- | tainly those with either the back like a long Newmarket coat, with plaits inserted, opening ! over a flounced front, or else those with the deeply kilted waterfall back. The newest waterfalls are finely kilted at the waist, the kilts j turned towards each other, meeting in the centre, then allowed to fall loose, but tacked near the edge of the skirt here and there to keep the fulness in place, A ruche or a plaiting falls below. In front there are either gathered flounces, alternate plaits of material with lace or fancy embroidery, or one deep box plait; with paniers above, as well as other arrangements. Many of the skirts have now treble plaits, all turned one way. The bodices are tight-fitting, as a rule, but a great many full round-waisted ones are worn, some being open in front to show the waistcoat of lace or embroideiy over colour. The eastern embroideries in gold and colours on rough cream muslin are arranged on ottoman silk dresses, as bordering to tunics, flounces between scarves, or up the panels of the sides. Embroidery in every possible style— over woollen, silk, or cotton fabrics, cambrics, crape, gauze, or tulle— is the popular trimming of the day for all toilettes. Dresses of white or unbleached lace are the typo of fashionable elegance for afternoon and dinner toilettes, and for concert and evening parties. Some very handsome toilettes wore worn at Ascot this year ; a noticeable dress wae a dark brown velvet, the front of the skirt and bodice light blue ottoman, covered entirely with a fine gold cord embroidery. A dark blue silk was made with kilt plaits, alternate red and blue, and a parasol of the s:ime colour. Flounced, white ■woollen dresses, embroidered in red and black, were mostly made with polonaises. Large bunches of ostrich feathers appeared alike on parasols and bodices. Terra-cotta dresses, in cashmere, soft silk, rich brocaded velvet, indeed in every class of material, were worn. Many silver grey dresses were braided in silver, and a remarkable, dress was too shades of blub, richly embroidered in gold. A dark blue Surah was printed with yellow roses, and made up as a polonaise over a skirt cut in battlements, and bordered with rich yellow lace. Two sisters wore light blue cashmere dresses made in box-pleats, with draperies and bolted bodices, and trimmed with deep white muslin guipure. Many bodices were made very high in the throat, with crescent collars. In the royal enclosure there was a preponderance of light dresses of one tone, carried out in every detail, parasol, gloves, and stockings. The Princess bf Wales wore a simple, soft cream colored woollen dress, with straw bonnet, and red flowers. A revived fashion of some twenty or thirty, years ago was much in favour — the pretty tucked and flounced muslin dresses, which look simple and smart for young ladies.