THE LADIES

Observer, Volume 2, Issue 35, 14 May 1881, Page 376

THE LADIES

WHAT PEOPLE ARE WEARING AT HOME.

London, March, 23rd. Dear Observer, — I am afraid your readers will be disappointed when they see how little real information I am able to give them this mail. Since the beginning of Lent, balls and dances have been unknown, and dinners and receptions become most rare. Even from the shops nothing can be gleaned. Two days ago, a spasmodic effort of last year's " Spring novelties " brought them, for a few hours of treacherous sun-shine, to the fore, but the fresh radiance of a heavy fall of snow exposed the fraud, and, failing even to take as "soiled stock," they were withdrawn, and ever since, "valuable sets of seal and fur mantles at greatly reduced prices," have reigned in undisturbed supremacy. Whether on account of the Czar's death or because it is Lent, only furs and black are to be seen everywhere, and, between politics, piety, and the state of the weather, bright colours are as rare as the crocuses just peeping out of the ground. ' ' Though poor the offei'ing he," here are the results of the effort* of your correspondent. Fig. 1 represents a popular form of dress lately come into vogue. It is simply a princess dress with a watteau pleat, or rather au imitation of it, attached to the neck or yoke and slightly looped up once or twice on the skirt to show the lining of some bright colour. In the pattern, the dress is of cream broche" finished at the neck and cuffs with a ruflie of cream lace. The front is open, except half way down the skirt, where it just touches and parts again, showing a draped front of old gold Surat silk, or satin de Lyon, with which also the pleat is lined, the cuffs edged, and a narrow puffing made round the skirt. To make the costume perfect, the stockings should be of old gold, and the shoes black embroidered with the same colour. The skirt should be protected by a muslin frilling of exactly the same length so that it does not show, and should be half long.

A lady is supposed to assume her tea dress about four p.m., until which hour the morning dress is worn, instead of being changed, as in old times, for luncheon. This custom has sprung up lately, since afternoon tea became an institution, and sherry and cake were abolished. Calls are usually paid between four and seven in the afternoon. Most people have a special day, order extra supplies of their speciality dainties, set the piano open in winter and have the tennis ground ready in summer, don their new tea dress to receive in, and get very cross if nobody comes. If people do come, hoAvever, these informal gatherings are often pleasanter than musical "at homes" or tennis parties by invitation where folks are rather apt to put on company manners with their best dresses. Tea gowns of black satin trimmed with coffee coloured lace look very well for elderly ladies of slim figure, they may be made in any material and suit everyone except matrons inclined to embonpoint or of a majestic carriage. They are particularly becoming to short neat figures as they give height and grace. The watteau pleat is essential, but the dress may be either open in front as in the pattern or closed . and finished with a "waterfall" of coffee lace and ribbon down the front. Fig. 2 I sent you before, but it is still so popular and suitable for Autumn wear, that I venture to repeat it. The Mother Hubbard cloak is most fashionable now made in black brocade, which may be had quite sufficiently good at 7s. 9d. a yard, or out of a cashmere or Paisley shawl. For young ladies it is most frequently of tweed or cloth matching the dress, or of black woollen material lined with some bright colour, cardinal or old gold. For walking dresses "tan" colour, exactly described by its name, is much worn. It looks lady -like and neat of self coloured tweed trimmed with narrow braid to match. Fig. 2is cut with only one seam down the back and is gathered from the shoulder to the neck so as to form a complete yoke. For the sleeve a sjit is made at the height of the elbow into which is inserted a straight piece of material about eight inches wide, gathered so as to match the neck ; a boxpleatea ruilile finishes the neck and sleeves. The hat should match, and, if the cloak is of brocade or cashmere, should be made of the same material. This applies also to the muff which should be made of the same material and gathered at each end where it finishes, like the

sleeves, with a box-pleated ruffle. Three and a-half yards of material thirty inches Avide is sufficient to make this cloak, an extra half -yard will be sufficient for both bonnet and muff.

Ulsters have, to a certain extent, gone out, but for stormy weather and travelling they are still much worn. There are two distinct styles : the one in black or dark cloth is a modification of the style introduced by Americans a year ago, it is tight fitting and buttons to the neck with one row of buttons ; there is a seam down the middle of the back which is cut like a man's dress coat, additional fulness is given to the skirt by the extensions on the back and side form seams which form pleats on the inside ; in front the body is made tight fitting as far as a basque, and a separate skirt is joined on ; there is a small stand-up collar, generally concealed by by a gauze veil twisted round and fastened at one side with a small brooch or bunch of flowers ; pockets should not be conspicuous and only placed in the skirt or coat tails. An ulster frequently trimmed with thirty rows of narrow braid, giving the appearance of a yoke, with twelve rows up the front and on the sleeves. The other style worn in tan or cafe an lait colours, a loose ulster with a round cape, rope round the waist, and broad untrimmed felt hat to match turned up at one side, is called the " Costume de Pelerinage."