VEGETABLE GARDEN

Timaru Herald, Volume CXLIII, Issue 20896, 27 November 1937, Page 15

VEGETABLE GARDEN

CELERY CULTURE Celery is one of the most popular, and is certainly one of the most important of the winter vegetable crops. Although more work is involved in its cultivation than is usually the case with vegetables, this is handsomely repaid by the crop itself and by the Increased fertility of the area involved. The land is cultivated to a considerable depth and the soil is piled up in such a manner as to allow a large surface the benefits of weathering. This crop may be grown in any good garden soil provided the plants are set into properly prepared trenches, and given a liberal dressing of stable manure and regular supplies of moisture throughout the growing season. Trenches should be prepared as soon as possible by excavating the soil to a depth of from 15 to 18 inches and even to two feet, if the subsoil is satisfactory. This is packed up neatly, forming a ridge on either side, and a catch crop of lettuce, radish, or spinach can be grown on top to utilise the soil until it is needed for filling in round the celery plants to secure blanching.

The width of the trenches will depend on the number of rows of plants, but one two feet wide, which will accommodate two rows, will be found most suitable for an amateur's garden. Half-rotted stable manure to a depth of about a foot is put in and dug over, mixing it with the soil in the bottom of the trench, but if this is unsuitable the manure is tramped down and three inches of good soil placed on top to plant in. If stable manure is not available compost heap can be placed in the trench and chemical manures used from time to time, but it is well worth going to considerable trouble to obtain suitable manure, for no crops better repay good treatment, and the larger and better grown the heads are the quality and flavour. Moisture is necessary at all time, and during dry weather plentiful supplies of water should be given, and a spraying overhead in the evenings will always be appreciated. During periods of water restrictions the water from the bath and the washing should be used. Blanching is essential but this should not commence until the plants are well grown, and it can be done by excluding the light either by binding brown paper round the plants, packing the soil which was excavated round them, or by using both methods. It takes about six to eight weeks from the commencement to blanch celery properly, and before commencing all the lower leaves and any suckers which may arise round the base of the plan tshould be removed, a good soaking provided if the weather should be dry, and a dusting of lime or, better still, lime and soot scattered round the plants. Tie up the plants

with raffia or soft string, break up the soil, place in among the plants, taking great care not to allow it to go down among the leaves, and pack firmly with the hands, after cutting the ties. WINTER GREEN CROPS SEEDS FOR PRESENT SOWING If there is one problem above all others which besets the small grower in his endeavours to supply the kitchen with fresh vegetables, it is that of maintaining a constant succession. In all too many cases there are peak periods when more green stuff and root crops than can possible be consumed are ready at one and the same time. Such spells are naturally followed by even more exasperation blanks.

Particularly is this true in the case of winter greens. Provision must be made for supplies which will continue from the frosts right on until the end of December or early November. Innumerable instances are recorded where Brussels sprouts, savoys, and broccoli are all sown at the one time, of a glut of useful produce during April, May, and June, followed by a blank until the first new season’s crop turns in in December. There is no doubt that most of the brassica family do better with a long period of growth, and malncrop supplies of sprouts in particular should be sown some time about the beginning of October, but to lengthen the succession, a sowing should certainly be made during the present month. Where a large family has to be catered for, it may even prove advisable to make two or three small sowings.

It Is not good policy to choose the largest and heaviest cropping sprouts for late sowings, as these definitely do require to be thoroughly established, if they are to produce good, firm buttons. Instead, one of the dwarfer types, such as Favourite or Dwarf Gem, should be preferred. These will not crop quite so heavily as earlier-sown and larger varieties, but, turning in as they do after July has set in, they will be doubly appreciated. Savoy Cabbages The same is true of savoy cabbages If the entire crop is sown in September or October, many good heads may have to be left in the ground until they split and are useless, whereas a sowing of one of the smaller types, Incidentally, it is worthy of note that, although savoys, like other brassicas, prefer a rich soil, they will crop better on poor land than will most. Cabbages can be sown right up to the end of November for winter supplies, so long as a really hardy variety is chosen. Winnigstedt and Drumhead are first-rate varieties for a late sowing, for both heart well and remain in good condition for a considerable period of time. The Colewort Colewort cabbages, sown in December, are also extremely valuable for filling the gap between the mam cabbage crop and the first of the savoys. They are not so large as garden cabbages, and do not, therefore, require the same amount of space. About one foot each way is ample room, as their growth Is dwarf and compact. The Rosette Colewort is a very choice vegetable, with small, close heads of fine flavour, but the newer selected forms of the old Hardy Green should also be grown. These produce firm, solid heads.

It is never a wise plan to sow the spring and early summer broccoli before November, or they are certain to head rather earlier than intended. Broccoli cannot be left for any length of time without losing a good deal in flavour. Comparatively small heads, with pure white curds, are infinitely superior to larger and coarser specimens, yellowed by standing too long after they have developed. There is no difficulty nowadays in maintaining a succession of this most delicious of all winter vegetables, for seed strains are perfectly reliable. The Roscoff broccoli, which has sprung into great prominence of recent years, is obtained in four distinct types. The strains known as Nos. 3 and 4 will turn in in August, September, and October respectively. This is a broccoli of the very highest quality, and produces large heads with pure white curds. Springtide, Leamington, and Eastertide are other first-class varieties for September and October heading, while for very latest crops Late Queen, Whitsuntide, and Methven's June should be selected. These varieties will carry on until well into December.

Sowings of brassicas at this late date should in every case be made in the open in a well-prepared seed bed. The main points is to sow thinly, for in most cases there will not be time to prick off the seedlings into nursery beds before they are put out to their permanent quarters. Much labour in thinning can, therefore, be saved if the seed is really sparsely sown. On no account must the tiny plants be left overcrowded for even a week before they are moved, for specimens which have had to fight with encroaching neighbours for necessary light and air will have their constitution so weakened as to ruin their cropping powers. Nor must young plants, which have been properly singled, be left in the bed after their foliage meets in the row. By that time they Will be quite large enough to transfer to their permanent quarters. Where crops are to follow early potatoes, or peas, it is really advisable to prick out the seedlings into a nursery bed. They can then be lifted with a good body of soil attached to the roots, and transplanted with a trowel to minimise the check inevitable at this time of the year. Actually, It is always wise to plant with a trowel, Instead of a dibber. Good Soil and Firm Planting A fairly rich soil is required in every ease, but what is even more Important is that it should be thoroughly firmed. In loose ground satisfactory crops are never obtained. Brussels sprouts are simply loose tufts, instead of small, firm, solid buttons, and cabbages do not make hard hearts. It is never advisable to attempt to dig the ground when earlier crops have been cleared to make way for the plants. Instead, simply fork over the surface, and, If the soil is in poor condition, rely on feeding during the growing season. Until the young plants have obtained a good root-hold, they must not be allowed to suffer unduly from drought. One or two soakings ot clear water should keep them going, and the hoe must be kept busily employed throughout the entire summer.