Story of a Great Expedition

Timaru Herald, Volume CXLIII, Issue 20782, 17 July 1937, Page 9 (Supplement)

Story of a Great Expedition

With Thomas Brunner to the West Coast

Inspiring Record of Endurance

ALMOST UNBELIEVABLE PRIVATIONS SUFFERED

On 3rd December, 1846, Mr Thomas Brunner, with a party of four natives, two men and two women, left Nelson on W’hat became one of the most arduous tours o. exploration in the history of New Zealand. Mr Brunner’s object was to explore the Buller river downwards to the coast, to seek an opening to the eastward from the lake country and a pass through to Port Cooper. The explorer was away in the wilds for 80 weeks and underwent almost unbelievable privations. The food supolv the small party could carry on their backs in such country was soon exhausted and thenceforth the travellers lived on what they could And in the bush and the rivers. Mr Brunner's diary was published in the "Examiner" of 1848, and the appended extracts will give some indication of the magnitude of the undertaking. The discovery of the famous coal seam at Brunner district is mentioned in the diary. Mr Brunner was awarded the medal of the Royal Geographical Society for this great work of exploration

Previous to the planting of the settlement of Nelson in Blind Bay, the first British colony on the south side of Cook’s Straits, little of the Middle Island of New Zealand was known to Europeans. It is true that the greater part of the coast had been visited by sealing and whaling parties, and a few individuals had taken up their permament abodes at the places most frequented as stations, but we have never been able to discover that these men knew anything of the interior of the island, and we believe their acquaintance was confined entirely to the coast Since this settlement was formed, however, now nearly seven years ago. a number of expeditions have been undertaken to supply that information of the country so much needed; and one of our most enterprising explorers, who has contributed most largely to our stock of knowledge, is Mr T. Brunner, a gentleman who was formerly attached to the Nelson surveying staff. Mr Brunner made journeys with Mr Heaphy and with Mr Heapy and Mr Fox. That with the two latter gentlemen was made in February 1849, and its object was to ascertain the nature and extent of the tract of country lying on the banks of the river flowing from Lakes Rotuiti and Roturoa (to the S.W. of Nelson), to the West Coast, and to learn whether a practicable route existed across that part of the island. The other journey commenced on the 17th of March of the same year, was made with Mr Heaphy; down the West Coast of the Island, as far as the native settlement of Arahura in lat. 43 degs. and occupied 22 weeks.

'With Two Natives and Their Wives On the 3rd December 1846, Mr Brunner again started on his travels, unaccompanied this time by any European, but with a party of four natives, two men and two women. Ekehu, one of the men, had accompanied Mr Brunner in both his former trips; the other was named Epiklwati, a native who was in some degree acquainted with the country about the lakes, having visited It a year previously. The women were the wives of these men. Mr Brunner's object now was to explore the river Buller downwards from where he had turned back with Messrs Fox and Heaphy. in the previous February, and to seek an opening to the eastward from the lake country, or from the West Coast. It was evident that this journey would necessarily be a protracted one, though it was scarcely expected that our enterprising explorer would be absent for the long period of eighty weeks; and the slight preparation made for the undertaking is not the least remarkable feature of the journey, when we consider that there was no chance of recruiting his supplies, however long he might be detained away, and that the greater part of the country he would have to travel was wholly uninhabited. The total outfit of food and clothing for the wnole party of five persons cost only £33 9s 4d. a sum which must seem truly contemptible compared with the pompous preparations we sometimes hear of for similar purposes. It must be remembered. however, that this journey had to be made on foot, that every individual of the party was his or her own beast of burden, compelled to carry everything requisite for their individual use and that no human being could have overladen in such a wild broken country as that, which Mr Brunner was now about to enter. The only provisions taken was lOlbs of flour, a few biscuits, and a little tea, sugar, salt, and pepper. The bulk of the outfit was spare clothing to replace that worn by the party at starting, two guns and a supply of ammunition. Tne journey was commenced by easy stages, and a man employed to assist to carry the loads as far as Mr Stafford's sheep-station, in the Motueka Valley, which was reached on the Sth. Tills was at that time the most remote spot where any European resided, and Mr Brunner waited there until the 11th, to get the assistance of a mule as far as the Rotuiti lake. This was reached on the 13th, when leave was taken of Fraser, the shepherd who had accompanied them, and all civilised life. The route was now the same as that taken by Mr Brunner with Messrs Fox and Heaphy in the preceding February. The Roturoa lake was reached on the 18th, previous to which the whole party had been affected by dysentery. From the 13th to the 30th

was spent in exploring the head of the lake and In preparing fern root for the journey. Much, rain was experienced which kept the party idle some days. Mr Brunner found the head of the lake completely shut in by snowcapped mountains, and fed by a large river flowing from the eastward. He ascended a hill in the neighbourhood to endeavour to get a glimpse of the East Coast, but the snowy range obstructed his view. Start for the Matukituki On the 31st Mr Brunner and his party again made a start forward for the Matukituki, and after experiencing much discomfort from the almost constant rain, reached his former return station, at the bottom of the Matukituki valley on the 16th January 1847.

At the termination of the Matukituki, which is a valley of some extent, the Buller, as it has been named, having received the waters of both the Rotuiti and Roturoa lakes, and several tributary streams becomes a deep and rapid river. It was here that Mr Fox was swept away the preceding year in passing over from bank to bank, which the nature of the country sometimes rendered necessary. The Buller at this point enters a rugged gorge, and compels the traveller to find his way along the sides of steep wooded mountains, the surface of which is much broken. It was the difficulty of proceeding through this gorge which caused the previous party (the first which had ever penetrated so far) to turn back, when Mr Heaphy estimated the distance from the West Coast to be little more than twenty miles. From the 25th January to the Ist February, Mr Brunner and party were employed pushing their way through the difficult country, when they found that their provisions were all spoiled by the rain, which was almost incessant. They were then compelled to retrace their steps as far as the Matukituki, to prepare a fresh stock, for such was the character of the birch wood in which they were entangled, that it afforded them not the slightest sustenance. Having reached their former hut on the 3rd, they found employment, when the weather permitted, in collecting and preparing food, until the 18th. when they crossed the river previous to again entering the gorge.

Mr Brunner states that on resuming his journey through the gorse, his load consisted of a gun, 71bs of shot, 81bs of tobacco, two tomahawks, two pairs of boots, five shirts, four pairs of trousers, a rug and blanket and at least 301bs of fern root. With suih loads it was Impossible to make much way through a thick bush interspersed with briars, and over rough granite rocks, compelled all the time to search about for the best line of country to get through; and often obliged to ascend and descend the sides of the steep hills to be enabled to get forward at all Accordingly we found that two miles a day is the utmost distance our travellers ever could attain, while sometimes they were unable to make more than half a mile, and were often compelled by heavy rains and freshes in the river to remain altogether inactive, or employ themselves in providing food and shelter. Last Handful of Flour Consumed On the Ist March, the last handful of Cour was consumed to thicken soup. To render this portion of the Journey still more harassing, one of the women now fell sick, and greatly retarded the progress of the party. On the 9th, Mr Brunner was himself taken ill, and for two hours suffered the most excruciating pain. Both the female natives suffered in a similar way, and also one of the men. The illness was attributed to their fern root diet. These delays so retarded the travellers, that on the 10th nearly all their provisions were exhausted, and they were reduced to one meal of fern root in twentyfour hours. No food of any kind could be obtained hi the birch woods in which they now found themselves and all they had to trust to was an occasional eel caught in the river. Until the 6th April there was but little change in the sufferings of the travellers, when they reached a better and more level country, partly covered with pine. Here they obtained plenty of birds, which gave them the luxury of two meals a day. Their way now lay through a valley of rich wooded land, and on the 12th they came to the mouth of a good sized river, flowing down a large valley, named Makaiona which opened to the southward. This valley is frequented occasionally by natives from the coast. On the 16th, another river was met with, flowing from the northward. By the 20th the travellers had reached the termination of the valley and again entered a mountain gorge.

From this time until the party reached the coast, on the 4th June, their sufferings were intense. The travelling was of the worst kind, and the scarcity of food was so great that after killing and eating his dog, Mr Brunner tells us, he was on one occasion without food for nearly three days. The almost constant rain experienced also added greatly to their misery. Scarcely a day passed but It rained during some portion of the twenty-four hours, more or less, and often very heavily for several days in succession.

But the disappointment of the travellers did not end here. Tire natives whom they expected to find at a pa on the coast were absent, nor had they

left any provisions behind them. Instead of a good meal of potatoes, as they had fondly anticipated, they were compelled to regale themselves on seaweed. In a couple of days the natives returned and after staying with them until the 15th, Mr Brunner started for the native settlement of Arahura, about 100 miles further down the coast. This was reached in safety, and here, and at the neighbouring settlement of Taramakau, our travellers remained until the following spring before they could procure guides to accompany them in their intended journey through the pass which leads to the grass plains on the East Coast. Appended are extracts from Mr Brunner’s actual diary as he proceeded on his journey. "Moving with My Inclinations” Wednesday 12th October, 1847. With a right good will I mounted my load on my back and and after many shakes of the hand, and much rubbing of noses, I left the Taramakau natives, and for once more felt myself moving with my inclinations. I had the company of the three chiefs here, Tc Kau-hauke, Tipiha, and Paeture and his daughter, just in my opinion a nice little party. Reached Arahura and put up for the night which proved a rainy one. 15th.—Moderately fine. Started for Okitika, a river of some considerable size, at the mouth of which was formerly a large pa.

20th.—Started with the rising sun, and after walking about two miles came to a curious headland or cliff, named by the natives Paramata. . . Here is found strata of very fine slate, on a bed of inferior coal, and under a kind of blue clay. . . . We made a long march, and a little after sunset came to the mouth of a large stream, called the Waenganui, where we camped for the night at a pa, the natives of which were absent, but found some potatoes, from which we took our supper. It was here George Darnwell and party beached their boat. 21st. —I believe I may now assert that I have overcome the two greatest difficulties to be met with by bushmen in New Zealand viz., the capability of walking barefoot, and subsisting on fern root. The first, the want of shoes, had been a dread to me for some time, often fearing I should be left a bare footed cripple in some desolate blackbirch forest on this deserted coast; but now I can trudge along barefoot, or with a pair of native sandals called by the natives parai-rai, which is made of leaves of flax, or, what is more durable, the leaves of the ti, or flax tree. I can make a sure footing in crossing rivers, ascending or descending precipices, in fact I feel I am just commencing to make exploring easy work. A good pair of sandals will last about two days’ hard work. They take about twenty minutes to make. 22nd.—. . . At Wairoa is the wreck of a large sealing boat among a lot of underbrush, about a quarter of a mile from high water. The growth of the bushes, and appearance of the wreck, show that the sea is fast receding from this coast. This also appears at the mouths of all the rivers of this coast.

Okaritu is the pa where Enihu captured and killed many of the natives of Ngaitau tribe and also took Tu Uru the chief, prisoner, whom he has since released to return here and work greenstone for him. There is the remains of a very large pa here, which was resorted to for fishing and bird catching; and that it abounds in eels I had full proof during my visit here, our diet being nothing else, and was served out in liberal quantities, to dogs as well as Christians, three times a day. There are six natives living here; two men and four women. They are of the Wesleyan church, and apparently very punctual and zealous in their worship. 28th.—About midday at low water we constructed a raft of the blossom stalks of the flax and crossed the river, when we walked about four miles to a small stream called the Totara. 29th.—Walked two miles further to another stream also called the Totara. Here we were obliged to erect a shelter against a regular tempest of wind and rain. 30th.—Rain continuing.

31st.—Showery. The natives proposed our leaving our loads here, and returning to Okaritu to attend Divine service on Sunday. To this I gave consent, knowing I should get a good dinner and more comfortable lodging. I am much astonished to find, that even in these distant parts, so much should be said by the natives belonging to the Church of England and the Wesleyans, relative to their forms of religion. Although in some places there are only six or eight natives, yet they have two places of worship, and two schools; and are always quarreling about religion, each party asserting its own to be the proper service to God. There are some few who have been christened by the Rev. C. L. Reay and a few by Mr Alfred, the ministers of the two churches in Nelson. “Again Southing” 9th.—Again making southing, and reached a stream called Waikukupa, deep and not fordable, but of no other note, and worthless. Passed on to another stream, called Miroroa, where we took up our lodgings for the night, having spent much of the day in constructing a raft to cross the former river.

14th.—After walking about three miles along a rocky beach, we came to a small point called Makawiho, on rounding which we crossed the Waitaki, a mountain stream, and proceeded to a potato garden at Porangirangi, where we put up for the night and the Sabbath. Distance, about nine miles. Nov. 15th. —Natives read service. There are only 97 natives, adults and children, living on the West Coast north of latitude 44 degrees, 29 of whom are members of the Church of England and 68 Weslyans. They all profess to follow some faith.

16th.—Started early this morning, and after walking about six miles, arrived at Parika, the residence of Te Raipo passing In our journey a small stream called Himakura, of no note or value. At Parika we received the welcome of strangers in a bountiful supply of fern root and preserved wekas and fish. There is nothing remarkable here and the place is only a summer residence on account of the eels in the river. The natives preserve the birds they catch during the winter months, when the birds are in excellent condition, in a rlmu or seaweed bag. The bird is opened down the back, and all the

bones taken out; the flesh is then laid in a shallow platter made of bark of the totara tree, called a patua, when they cook the bird by applying red hot stones. They then place the cooked birds in the rimu bag, and pour over them the fat extricated while cooking, tying tightly the mouth of the bag. I have eaten of birds kept two years in this manner, and found them very good. Eels and seals are also preserved in this way, using whale oil for their preservation. The natives much worship their greenstone meres, or battle-axes of former times; so much so, that they are buried with their owners, when, after remaining in the ground some five or six years, they are dug up and given to the nearest relation of the deceased. They have also safe hiding places for them, in order that, if surprised and conquered, as in former times, their enemies might not find them in their spoil. I saw one belonging to Te Raipo, which has descended from time unknown, and for which they say Enihu made war on their tribe to obtain, but could not find it, the mere being hid at the bottom of a deep pool of water. 17th.—Staying at Parika, eel catching for our onward dieting. 18th.—A shower of rain formed, in our united opinion, a sufficient excuse for remaining here another day. We managed to dry enough eels to last a week. There are no provisions to be found here saving the Katoke. An Unfortunate Accident 19th.—After walktag about three miles we came to a headland called Titihaea from which I slipped, or rather was washed from a rock by the sea, and crushing my feet between the rocks, put out my right ankle, which caused me much pain. I was also hurt in several places by the sharp edges of granite. Finding I could not clamber the rocks, I allowed myself to be led towards Parika, which my lameness and the tide, prevented us reaching.

20th.—With much pain I crawled to Parika where I bound up my leg and repeatedly bathed It in cold water, which served to lessen the pain. I dressed my other scratches with weka oil. 20th—Paeturi and Tipia requested leave to return to Taramakau, leaving Te Raipo with me. This I was compelled to agree to. Almost consumed by the quantity of fleas.

From 27th November to 10th December, Mr Brunner remained at Parika unable to travel in consequence of the accident which had just occurred to him, which caused him great suffering. During this time also there was much rain. 11th December.—Yesterday I resolved to return to Mawera, and then rejoin my own natives, and endeavour once more to see a white face and hear my native tongue, so I retraced my steps to Porangirangi. 1 was induced to make Parika or rather, Titihara the terminus of my southing, for several reasons. My lameness had made me mxlous to return to Nelson, the summer season was fast approaching to a close, and I dreaded the idea of another long winter; the country I was travelling through was quite worthless, and certainly so in respect to Nelson, and I had a wish of returning by a fresh route, and of seeing more of this country; I also resolved to try getting back by the Mawera, if 1 should abandon the idea of crossing the Island from Taramakau to Port Levy. Had I urged the natives to proceed more south with me, I could not get their services to assist me «ith a canoe up the Mawera. So that being here without resources, I was much at the mercy of the natives, and Ekehu having a runaway wife from Wakapuaka, he dared not return by the coast, the shortest route.

When I told Te Raipo of my resolution of returntag, he was very glad and said that having only one white man was too great a responsibility on his hands; if there were two, he would not care, as, if any accident occurred, one might live to tell the fate of the other. "But,” he said, "if you died it would be said that I had killed you for the sake of eating or plundering.” 20th and 21st.—At Okitika. 22nd. —Walked to Arahura, where I feasted on early potatoes—a treat, having lived lately on fish. 23rd.—Walked to Taramakau. 24th.—Walked to Mawera, there being a great meeting there to attend Christmas Day. 29th.—Walked to Okitika where I was free from fleas, dogs and old women, the native Tipia having built a new house to receive me. While I was at Okitika, one of the native children, the son of Tipia, a boy of about seven years of age, took such a fancy to me, that it was with difficulty that I could part with him, for when I was leaving he clung round my legs and cried, and at last I was obliged to remove him with force. His father wanted me to take him with me, but his mother refused to part with him, at which I was glad, for he would have been much trouble to me in difficulties and not able to bear the hardships of the bush. A Year with the Natives 31st.—Terminates an eventful year of my life, the whole of which I have spent amongst the natives, and chiefly on the banks of the Buller or Kawatiri, and during which time I have lived on the natural produce of the country, and the few potatoes I have had on the coast, which from want of cultivation, are almost in their wild state. I have never heard a word of English the whole year. Bth January.—Suffering under the pain of a severe toothache. 20th. Tipia returned to Okitika, having accompanied me to carry a kit of dried fish which his wife had given me. 21st.—My face had swollen so much that I could not manage to eat. 20th.—This morning freighted our canoe with our provisions, clothes, and fishing apparatus. I considered myself on board the admiral’s canoe, it being the largest and first to start, having in company three others. It is really a very exciting scene to see four canoes poling and paddling up a fine stream on a fine day. We stemmed about five miles of the river, and camped at an old fishing station, prettily situated on

an island, called Mautapu, which rises about one hundred feet above the level cf the river. At this place the river is confined between two black birch hills. About a mile above Mautapu is a seam of coal of apparently very fine quality, presenting itself under a strata of mica slate. The coal is hard and brittle, very bright and sparkling, burns freely and free of smell. Tire seam is some feet deep, and level with the river's edge. From this place the valley extends itself to a large level district for New Zealand. There is much open land here. 27th.—Paddled up the river to a point where it divides itself into two branches, one of which is called KotuUrakaoka, and is a pass to the East Coast bearing S.E. Stopped here for the night the natives wishing to fish. This is the place where Ekehu lost his father, and himself was taken prisoner by the Ngatitau tribe.

29th.—Ascended the branch, and by night reached the lake, a fine sheet of water of about six or seven miles square, near the middle of which is a small low island, once a fishing station, where we camped. Fine day. Last Bit of Tobacco 30th.— . . . This is the lake frequented by the natives on their route to the East Coast. This is a memorable day for me, having just put my last bit of tobacco in my pipe. I am afraid time, or rather, wet weither, will seem long, now I have no amusement left. There is a fresh-water mussel called Kalchau, abounding on some lakes, and which we found in the Rotoroa, which when boiled with the roots of the raupo, or bulrush, makes a palatable dish, and is the favourite meal of the celebrated savage Rauparaha. 31st.—Returned from the lake to the main stream, where we left the women and canoes. During our absence the women caught a supply of fish. February Ist. —Again started, leaving all but my own party behind. 10th.—Were brought to a stand by a fall of snow, when we erected a shelter. Feb. 14th.—Walked about three miles and came to a large shingle bed, where the river divides itself into several branches. After some exploring about, we took the branch to the north, and ascended about two miles when the rain began to fall so we had to erect a shelter.

16th.—I made a sally out, and ascended a high tree, found we had taken the wrong branch of the river, its bearing being too much north ... In this river is found the stone used by the natives for rubbing down their ponomo, a quality resembling a Newcastle stone.

17th.—There is a particular tapu existing among the natives relative to the eel. You must wash your hands before going to catch them, and also on returning; the bait must be prepared some distance from the house; for cooking the eel there must be a distinct fire for which you must have a special tinder-box. Your hands and mouth must be washed before and after partaking of them; and should it be necessary to drink from the same stream from which the eels are caught, you must have two vessels for water, one to drink out of the other to dip from the stream. Whether this relates to particular places I am not aware, but at Okitika and Okaritu, found it strictly adhered to, having had at the former place to walk half a mile for water, when a stream was only within a few yards of our station. 18th.—A fine morning after the fog had risen, and, again mounting our respective burdens, made a start, leaving our wrong turn. . . .

The Grey is certainly a fine river for New Zealand and worthy the name o our Governor, after whom it is called. . . .

21st—Walked along the grass plain about four miles, when we came to a division of the river, where I resolved t look ahead before I carried my load; so I went forward, and ascending a small fern elevation of the grass plain, I chose the branch bearing most E. for our course, and returned to my campment.

23rd.—There is nothing like keeping up the stock of provisions in the bush, whenever an opportunity offers, although your back has to suffer from the weight; for in this country it is oftener much easier to exhaust than replenish your stock. lam obliged to keep the natives as well fed as possible, for they are continually murmuring, and telling me they are sure, if they continue to follow me, I shall starve them. They have several times threatened to return to the Mawera, and live with their countrymen, rather than take their chance in the bush of safely reaching Nelson. The natives bear hunger badly, and become irritable in temper and lazy. The Grey River March 2nd.— . . . some of the bends of the river I passed to-day afford the most beautiful scenery conceivable. I am so pleased with the Grey River that I should not object to visit it again. A great number of dogs have taken to the bush here, which sadly lessens the quantity of ground birds, for which this river was formerly noted. 3rd.—The valley Is now fast narrowing, and I hope another day’s walk will take us to the foot of the mountain range, for I am anxious to get a view of the country, to learn something of my whereabouts.

4th.—Commencing to rain. We erected a shelter, but were compelled to resort to black birch for covering. In the night the wari separated just over my sleeping quarters, which gave me a most uncomfortable night’s lodging. 7th.— . . . We took the bed of the river for about two miles, and then deserted the mam stream for a branch bearing E„ which we ascended about one mile. We then resolved to abandon the rivers altogether, and take to the low range bounding the southern bank. Ascending this and walking along the ridge for about three miles, we discovered a river, distant about two miles, and agreed to make a push to spend the night on its banks. We reached it just at nightfall, when the thunder, overtook us, and we had to erect a shelter by the light of the fire. Sth.—On looking about this morning, we found this to be the Oweka, a river flowing into the Buller. The pass from the branch of the Grey to the Oweka is a single ridge, with not much inclination, easy of ascent and descent, and the bush open and free of roots. A commu:,~,)>n from

I river to river even for a cart, might be made by simply clearing the underbrush . . .

9th. —Started to cross the valley, taking an easterly course. Found the | valley to be about three miles wide, when we came to the rising ground, which we ascended, and slept on the side of the mountain. 10th.—Reached the summit of the hill this evening, and found it to be covered with a low fern commanding a fine view of the interior of the Island. I could discern mountains which I knew at the Roturoa, with the river Buller, and on the West Coast, but the weather was too foggy to admit of my seeing the lowland. A Disappointment 11th.—Being a fine clear day, I could see the large grassy plain of Port Cooper. . . Tire natives told me their pass over the range to the east is low and easy. ... I am told some natives a few years ago, crossed the island in seventeen days. I much wished to descend to the grass plain, and try and reach the East Coast, but the natives one and all refused, and told me I had kept them already too long away from Nelson. and that the payment I promised them was too little for what they had previously done; and even on a promise of a further payment, they also refused; so I was obliged reluctantly to abandon my desire and return towards Nelson. 12th.—Tire natives not willing to spend the day on the summit of the hill, and refusing to follow the course I wished to take to reach the Matakitaki valley, saying that if I did not return to the river, they would do without me, for that we should all be starved if we ventured to push forward by a short route in a black birch country, I was compelled to descend the hill by nearly the same route I had ascended. I did not wish to follow the circuitous course of the river, but to travel by compass towards the Matukituki valley or the Roturoa, but the natives said that the river was the only place where food could be obtained.

13th.—Reached the banks of the river and camped about a mile from where we first made it. 14th.—The natives having heard numerous cries' of the weka last night, wished to stop here, to which I assented, having again hurt my ankle, and which was giving me much pain . The weka or wood-hen is the most useful and valuable bird for a bushranger. . . .

15th. —I was surprised on awaking this morning to find a fresh in the river, having had but little rain yesterday. We, however, made a start, and walked a mile down the bank, when the natives finding a spot they fancied for eel fishing, they wanted to stop. I became angry, and urged the necessity of proceeding, stating we had plenty of provisions, and were losing fine weather; so they agreed, and I again mounted my load, and proceeded, when on looking back I saw the women still at the eel station. On remonstrating with them I only got laughter and I was forced to laugh too, for I find there is nothing like showing good temper when dealing with these natives; besides, I doubt If it would really answer to quarrel with them in such wilds, and so far from a settlement

16th.—The game list of yesterday stood as follows: —29 wekas, 2 young paradise ducks, 1 grey duck, 2 dabchicks, 2 sparrow-hawks, and 17 eels. What we are to do with all I do not know, for as to eating them while sweet it is impossible, and we have no means of keeping them unless we stop to construst an air-tight bag of totara bark, which I object to on account of delay. There is some difference in our stock of provisions now, and in the month of May last year, which I spent on the Buller River, and so is a bush life full of feasts and fasts . . . 17th.—Another fine day and again on our way, still keeping on the bank of the river, which was now rapidly increasing in size from the drainage of the surrounding country. 18th.—The appearance of the weather, after walking about five miles, induced us to stop and erect a shelter in a fine manuka grove, using the bark of trees for thatch, which is very watertight and easily obtainable. 20th—I believe if we had provisions spoiling for want of eating, and had loads under which we could scarcely stagger, nothing would induce Ekehu to pass a weka, or remain at the fire if there was a chance of an eel in the river, so great is his natural love of sport. So it was last night; I pressed on him to forbear fishing; but no, he must be off, and return with 20 eels.

2ist. Two or more persons crossing a river will find it much easier and safer for all to hold one stick, using both hands to it, and holding it on the palm of the hand, the elbow downwards, the strongest person being up the stream; the quicker you walk the better, taking care to keep the step of the leader. It is a curious feeling particularly to your feet, which from the force of the stream and slipperiness of the stones, seems scarcely to touch the bottom.

22nd.—A fresh in the river, the beastly drip of the bush, with a plentiful supply of provisions, formed sufficient excuses for remaining under our comfortable shelter another day. 23 r d.—Made a start and after crossing the river five times, the water breast high, for the sake of getting shingle walking, came to a reach, looking down which we could discover the country dl the Buller, when my companions started to try who should arrive there first. When we reached the Buller, we found it much swollen. Walked about seven miles during the day, the country presenting the same appearance as before. 24th.—Again on my way for Nelson, retracing my steps on the banks of the Buller, but it was on the southern bank we were now travelling. Made a moderate day’s walk. Found a haha’s nest containing five young birds. 25th.— Moving forward at a good pace, having accomplished as great a distance in the last two days as we did in three on our journey down the river on the northern bank. Tried a new species of fruit, the berries of the mako, which is very palatable when you have attained the proper knowledge of eating them. You must gauge your mouth so that your teeth will only slightly crush the berry without breaking the seed, which has a most nauseous bitter taste.

26th. —Last night took a draught with our net, and caught about fifty goodsized upukuroro. 30th.—Very bad walking. The immense gigantic rocks that belt the river render it impossible for us to keep to the bank, and the mountains were too high to ascend, so our day’s walking was one continual ascending the spurs and descending the water courses, which only brought us on a short distance by nightfall, when there was every appearance of rain.

31st. —Just as we were turning into our blankets last evening, rain came pouring down. We, however, managed to find squatting room under a large dead tree that had been blown down, which kept us dry until morning*when we built a shelter.

April Ist.—Heavy rain and gusts of wind, which gave Us all a good soaking. Luckily Ekehu had caught eels enough to lasj us two days with moderation.

2nd.—Rain and thunder. A fresh in the river. 3rd. —The rain continuing to pour down. About midday a stream came rolling down the cliffs above us, destroying the shelter on which we had been working all the morning to render our situation comfortable. The fresh also increased so fast, that the natives declared we must find means to ascend the cliff, or we should all be carried away by the flood, which prevented us from going either backward or forward. So we made a sort of ladder, and managed to clamber up about twenty feet to another ledge, to which we drew up enough of our old shed to erect a break against the wind, but against the-rain we had no shelter; and we were just able to keep the kits containing our food dry during the night, and nothing more. A Day on a Cliff 4th. —Made our shed habitable; rain and thunder continuing. This was truly a wretched day to spend on a cliff in a black birch forest. The rain poured down in torrents, and loosened the stones on which the hill w r as formed, and these rolled by us and plunged into the river with a fearful noise. The wind tore up trees on every side, and the crash which ensued caused a simultaneous shudder by all hands. sth. —An increase in the gale; and the fresh in the river exceeding all bounds, having reached forty feet perpendicular. God only knows when we shall be able to proceed, for to ascend is impossible, and we can move nowhere until the fresh subsides. 6th. —Showery, with ram at night. 7th. —Should to-morrow prove as fine as to-day, I hope to be once more moving, the fresh rapidly goiyg down. Bth. —The fresh having a little subsided during the night, we managed to get a short way along the cliffs, and ascend an exceedingly perpendicular hill. We pushed on, scarcely allowing time for breathing, and by dusk reached the river’s edge, where we camped. 9th—The weather is determined to try our consitituions, for soon after rolling our blankets round us last night, it commenced raining heavily, and continued all night, so that by morning we were soaking wet through, when we commenced building a shelter, but the rain ceased and a fine day followed, so we moved on about a mile to a shingle beach, where we spread our kits to dry. 10th.—This long rain having caused so great a flood in the river, we consumed all our dried fish, and not being able to catch any more, and the bush destitute of the feathered tribe, I told the natives, as we had nothing to spoil, we must push forward, although it was raining, and endeavour to find a supper. In this we succeeded, by discovering a fem tree. Made a good day’s walking.

11th. —Again progressing, and making for Nelson, but walking slowly, owing to Epiki’s lameness. . . . Bad lodging —a granite rock with no fire-wood, and, what was worse, no supper.

12th.—A little before daylight the rain began to fall, and continued in smart showers all day, but having nothing for breakfast, we had no alternative but to brave the rain and seek for the means for one. After walking about four miles, we came to a small patch of sand, when we saw the upukuroro reascending the river from the flood. Having no provisions, we camped, made our kupenga, and set to work fishing. Caught one hundred and fifty fish during the day. There being no material for erecting a shelter, we hoisted the blankets for a shed, but found that a year’s bushing had made a sad alteration in their waterproof qualities. 13th.—Caught about the same number of fish as yesterday, which we dried.

14th.—After packing our fish we started, and made a good day’s walking. A slight shower during the day.

A Serious Illness

15th.—This morning I could not stir, having lost the use of my side, and although I had never before been any hindrance to the natives, always carrying my full share of the loads, and helping to get firewood, etc. Yet I had the mortification of hearing Epiki propose to Ekehu that they should proceed and leave me, saying, that I appeared too

ill to recover soon, if ever, and that i the place where we were was devoid of j food. But Ekehu refused to leave me, | and Epiki and his wife then started forwards. I received great kindness i from Ekehu and his wife for the week • I was compelled to remain here, the woman attending me kindly, and Ekehu working hard to obtain food for us, ■ always pressing upon me the best. He frequently told me he would never j return to Nelson without me. 16th.—Self ill. Ekehu went eelfishing to try and procure me fresh food.

17th and 18th.—Raining. 19th.—Fine. Ekehu went searching for food, but found only two or three thrushes and a fem tree. 20th.—I was able to move about, but still without the use of my left side. 21st.—Something better, but in pain. Rain.

22nd.—Although I could only stand on one leg, yet I resolved tn try’ and proceed. Ekehu had scoured the country, but could find nothing eatable within reach, and he would not leave me for a night, so he carried my bed clothes forward some distance, and then came back and partly by carrying and partly leading me, assisted me along.

23rd.—I was able to proceed, though slow’ly, by the aid of a stick and Ekehu’s hand.

24th— It was with great difficulty I could move at all to-day, but want of provisions compelled me. Found two fem trees, and made an oven. 25th.—About midday we overtook Epiki and his wife, W’ho had been scouring the country for birds. I w’as unable to proceed without assistance. Raining all day. 26th—Reached a stream flowing from the southward, called by the natives of Muri-ira. It is opposite to our cave and former return station to Matukituki. Tried to ford the stream, but found it too deep and rapid. Rain at night.

27th.—Finding no materials to conI struct a raft, we were obliged to ascend i the river in search of a ford. Found , many likely spots, but on trying them ; they were all too deep and rapid. Rain- ' ing.

28th. —Ascending the river about four miles, we came to a division of the stream, caused by an island with a short shingle reach on either bank) The river up to this spot is confined between large rocks. We again ventured to ford, all holding on by one stick, and reached the other bank safely, having had to swim part of the way over, and of course thoroughly wetting our clothes, which took some time drying, for it rained all day and being in a pine forest w T e could find nothing for a shed. We, however, found firew’ood in plenty, and having a soaking wet night, we all sat round the fire under the shelter of our native mats, and felt the rain and cold much, for our stomachs were empty. We had nothing by us for a breakfast. There is a considerable quantity of good forest land on the banks of the Muri-ira, and the natives say that there is a grass plain at its source, to which they formerly resorted in search of the kakapo, or green parrot—the hills of the Oweka being the route taken.

28th.—The day occupied in retracing our steps on the bank of the river towards Matukituki. A fine night and sleep without shelter. Sunday, 29th.—Ekehu said that hunger was no Sabbath keeper, so we proceeded and reached the banks of the Buller, where we slept. A shower of rain towards the morning. The “Matukituki” 30th.—Reached our old shelter at Matukituki, which we found standing. Collected some fern root, and quelled our hunger. 6th.—l again felt much pain in my side, and was unable to use it; my eye and hand w r ere even affected. 7th—Finding I was unable to move, Epiki and wife went forth to endeavour to find wood hens; Ekehu and wife remaining w’ith me. 11th.—Heavy fall of snow all day. 14th.—Still without the use of my side, and suffering from pain owing to the change of weather. 15th.—Ekehu collecting ti roots. The river much swollen. If I had been able to move, it w’as doubtful if we could have progressed owing to the snow. I was also seized with a violent vomiting, which lasted all day and night, and my side gave me much pain. I attributed it to the badness of the living, and exposure to the cold weather. We left here all our old clothes, none of which I had previously thrown away, also my pot, and two specimens of greenstone (one 16 inches long, 6 broad and 1 inch thick, the other piece was smaller and both considered valuable by the natives) some pieces of mica slate for polishing the greenstone (an occupation which had afforded me amusement on wet days), three good

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