GARDEN AND SHRUBBERY

Timaru Herald, Volume CXXXVII, Issue 19632, 28 October 1933, Page 15

GARDEN AND SHRUBBERY

THE CULTURE OF THE GLADIOLUS.

It is given to few flowers to raise from comparative obscurity to be a flower of fashion in three continents, to have societies and journals established in its interests, not to say anything about a host of admirers which is continually increasing as the years go by (writes “Lorna,” in the “Manawatu Daily Times.”) The glories of the flower itself and its continuous improvement in the hands of plant breeders will always assure its popularity. Modem varieties will come as a great revelation, from brilliant, gorgeous colourings to those of soft, exquisite loveliness. Its great adaptibility is another of its assets growing in almost any soil and corms may be held In storage for months after the natural growing season begins. The best soil for gladioli is one that is naturally rich and deep, but they can be grown successfully in soils varying from light sandy to heavy clay. Owing to the vast difference in soils and in materials available, the question of manuring must be settled by each grower for himself, preferably by experiment.

With the help of an abundant supply of rich natural manures in the soil and on the surface, together with plenty of water as required, giant flowers and spikes may be obtained, but often with the result that the corms contract some disease. A rich virgin bed will need no manuring, and a bed which has been well manured for a previous crop will suit well. Whatever manure is used should be well decayed, and as a precaution use a handful of sand around the corm to prevent contact with any manure. The only artificial manure in general use is superphosphate about one ounce to the square yard. Partly decayed turf from good land is a valuable ingredient to any soil, and where decayed animal manure is unavailable Clay's fertiliser is a wonderful substitute. Regarding siutation, most gladioli show a dislike for too much shade, although it is a temptation to grow in partial shade as the heat of the sun often spoils a few blooms. But when growing for exhibition it is best to plant in full sunhine and provide movable shades, using these only when danger threatens. When planting choose a day when the soil is moist, but not sodden. For dry weather planting, it is preferable to give the soil a thorough soaking a day or two beforehand, rather than to water heavily immediately after, with no danger of setting hard around the corm. Large corms should be planted four inches deep and small corms a little less, and at least six inches apart. Constant soft tillage is one of the essentials to success, and is one of the best safeguards against disease. It is very desirable that a fresh site should be chosen or fresh soil given for each succeeding year’s planting, but where this is not possible the old soil may be broken up roughly between the lifting and next season's planting, exposing it as much as possible to the sweetening action of the air and sunshine. Corms planted in midDecember flower in March and April after the summer heat has passed, but many corms have to be planted earlier as they refuse to abide the owner's time. When cutting, cut no unnecessary foliage, as it is needed for the corm’s development and if desired the spikes may be cut and placed in water when one or two flowers are open, as all the buds will open and develop perfectly.