Return to Bright Tartans

Timaru Herald, Volume CXXXVII, Issue 19626, 21 October 1933, Page 10

Return to Bright Tartans

IN POPULAR FAVOUR IN LONDON AND PARIS

t The tartan, now playing such a pro- ] minent part in the favour of fashion experts in London and Paris, is the ’ , chief article of the traditional High- j “ land Scottish national costume. The j j ancient manner of wearing it was to plait it around the waist, allowing a plaited half yard to overlap In front to hang down to a point just above ’ the knees. The surplus material was , draped about the thighs, and across the back, and fastened with a large clasp to the left shoulder. The modern Highland costume is a modification of this, consisting of a ' kilted single width of tartan and an 5 unplaited shoulder plaid worn somewhat like a broad scarf—brought under J the right arm and fastened to the left ; shoulder with the ends hanging down. Tartan material is closely woven of a very fine yarn, usually In a twill weave. The designs of the plaid as probably everyone knows, are distinctive of the ' various Scottish clans, so that one may tell of an approaching stranger, even . at a distance, whence he comes and what is his name. Many of the clans have several plaids; a ''clan” plaid, a "dress' plaid, a j "hunting" plaid and a “chieftain's" j plaid. The "hunting" plaids are quieter in colour, with less red and yellow e In their composition than the others: ■. the “dress” tartans are more fanciful j r than the "clan" tartans, and the l “chieftain's” tartans often show a f great deal of white, a The old tartans were woven and j dyed by hamj, and as regards dyeing e by the ancient Highlanders one chro- j t rtlcler says they "had neither cochl- | t neal lac dye. foreign woods, nor other e excellent substances to impart various s tints to their Breocan; but with their r native hills afforded articles with

I wife was competent to dye blue, red. j green, yellow, black brown, and their ' compounds." It is interesting also to read of the Highland woman's dress as worn In 1700. It consisted of a white plaid having a few small stripes of black, blue and red. It reached from the neck to the heels, and was tied across the chest with a sliver or brass buckle, sometimes as large as a dinner plate, and engraved with various animals. There was a smaller buckle worn in the middle of the large, having in its centre a large stone. “The plaid, being pleated all round, was tied with a belt above the waist. The belt was of leather, and several pieces of silver intermixed with the leather like a chain. The sleeves were of scarlet cloth, and the headdress a fine kerchief of linen straight about the head, hanging down the back taperwise. It is through the influence of Queen Victoria tit at Highland garb prevailed at Court. All our Royal princes have been accustomed to wear from their earliest youth the "Garb of Old Gaul." The gay tartan of the Royal Stewarts is still worn by the pipers of the Black Watch and Scots. The Jacobite tartan, with its terracotta ground, green squares and red. white and blue pattern, belongs to the days of Bonnie Prince Charlie, and was one of the emblems of the Jacobites, like the “S" j (for Stewart) In the openwork of the clavmore-hilt. or the legend “No | Union" on its blade A specimen is in I existence which was woven in 1712. —