THOUGHTS OF SPRING.
THK ULLB FAMILY. Some uesful hints in regard to the planting of bulbs are given by Mr D. Tarrock, Curator of the Dunedin Botanical Gardens. Mr Tannock says that nothing is gained by keeping bulbs out of the ground after this month. The daffodils are still the chief bulbous plant for display in the flower garden and for providing cut flowers in the spring. They are so hardy, so easy to accommodate, and can be had at such a reasonable price, that they are within the reach of everyone. When planted in grrss, among shrubs or deciduous trees, or in mixed borders, the bulbs appear to remain quite healthy, and though the blooms may not be so large, they still have form and colour, and mere size is little recommendation in an ordinary garden. Daffodils planted in grass remain healthy and flower well for a long time, and though it may appear a rough and ready way to treat them, they seem to like it. We find no signs of deterioration after over 10 years, and self-sewn seedlings are now coming up round the original groups. We cut the grass for hay some time in the beginning of the year, and this is all the attention the plot gets. There are two methods of planting in the grass, one a* individual bulbs with the bulb planter, and the other' in clumps of five with the spade. When planting, use a bulb planter, which is a tool which removes a disc of turf about three inches thiek and sufficiently wide to allow the biggest bulb to get to the bottom of the hole. To get a natural effect the bulbs are scattered in drifts, each variety being kept by itself, and planted where it lies. If the soil is poor a little bone meal can be put into the hole along with the bulb, then the piece of turf is returned to the hole, and pressed down with the foot. When planting with the spade, sticks are put in w'here the holes are to be made, and again the varieties are kept separate. With the spade remove a piece of turf about nine inches square and three inches thick, then loosen up the soil in the bottom of the hole a little, give a liberal dusting with bone meal and press five bulbs into the loose soil, return the turf and tramp or heat it down to its original level. When planting, in the shrubbery it is better to put them in in liberal groups between the shrubs, but some distance back from them, or in a broad row along the front of the border. In either of these positions they will not be overshadowed by the shrubs for some time. When planting in the mixed border they should be reasonably near the front and not in very large groups so that late flowering perennials may grow over them and occupy the space left when, they die down. When growing for show blooms it is better to plant them in well-drained beds about four to five feet wide. The bulbs are planted in rows across the beds from nine to 12 inches apart and from six to nine inches between the bulbs in the rows. To supply cut blooms they are usually planted in broad rows. With the spade remove the soil to a depth of three inches and the width of the spade, place the bulbs, about three Inches apart, dust with bone meal if the soil is poor, and with the soil from the next row fill up the one which has been planted, continuing on to the end of the plot. Tulips and hyacinths, being rather scarce, are usually grown in rows across raised beds, or in groups in the mixed or rose borders. Spanish and English iris can be planted now, and so also can anemones and ranunculus, but as these flower later than the daffodils there is no hurry.
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Bibliographic details
Timaru Herald, Volume CXXV, Issue 18203, 2 March 1929, Page 10
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666THOUGHTS OF SPRING. Timaru Herald, Volume CXXV, Issue 18203, 2 March 1929, Page 10
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