“UNLICKED FLAPS”

Timaru Herald, Volume CXXV, Issue 17756, 17 September 1927, Page 10

“UNLICKED FLAPS”

LONDONER’S GOSSIP OF FASHION

Almost imperceptibly the fashion for angles and points of all kinds has made its way into dross ior all hours ol the day. In evening clothes it is very noticeable in the'treatment- of classical satin gowns, the bodices cl many ol which show the material let- ,n in a “V” effect at the hack, the point being i open ted «n the d/ro'ietage at the back and sometimes in Irani also, though a “V” at- the hack is better when the front decolletage is treated as a modified square. On elution . I rocks the wispy ends and the uneven skirt are often finished in vandyked points. Lace frocks are often I rented in the same fashion, and the many fringed frocks for evening wear show the Iringe embroidered on in slanting linos which are incomplete angles. This vogue ior slantino diagonal, ami bias elieets is a great help to design in evening gowns which are the hardest of all to vary. In day clothes Hie point and the angle is just as popular,' and is seen in the way piecing-in is done at the back of many tailored, coats where this effect gives that treatment which makes dress-makers say to a client, "There is something to that model.” It is also seen in the coats in silk and satin that are being made for wear with summer frocks. These are olten tucked at the back in these pointed elieets, or arc pieccd-m in angles. In sports clothes the point a'so makes itself lelt. In some of the lancy striped, woollen jersey materials, .when the rtripa is not too wide, jumpers and sweaters are being made wi Lh the stripes meeting in points,. and alsb'vvitlii the throat opening in a point.(Jtheif .sweaters have the.material plain and. a stripe put on in points in■'■a ..'different, material. This'often gives .a much .smarter look than' if the sweater were niado of a woven stripe. ' The greater the appearance of handwork on all clothes, and the more the eifeet is gained by ingenuity the bettor the design is from the point of view of we'l-drossed -women who know what clothes cost from looking at them; and who have learned to recognise, the Sources of all models 1 rom having; niado a careful round of all-tlie -dress shows. Pleated Skirts l ,

’The skirts of many of the sports suits are now being pleated in points, and many pockets' are being put on coats of all kinds m points, the tops being like the unlinked flaps oi envelopes. Many of the sports lur coats in calf and other hard-looking skins are being worked in points. As lar as lur is concerned, the point is only new tor sports furs; many of the better iurs like mink and squirrel have been worked in tins way for some time where small skins needed caret ul arrangement to show iheir beauties. Owing to the general outcry about the small sizes of the French models that have been sent over lor wear by large English mannequins, the new models are a’l in large sizes, and the English buyers when they are in Paris usually have them fitted to their own measurements. As some of these ladies are much larger than their mannequins, the suits have to be taken in when they arrive over hero instead of being let out. It makes the original models more saleab e, as formerly they were largely wasted or sold at sales, having been copied. This season, however, there are far fewer originals, as the buyers ■ cannot afford the high prices. One buyer was complaining that she had to pay a hundred pounds for a plain model, including duty, and a> she could not hope to ropy that, mode' more than about ten times in different colours, and could not charge more-than about twelve guineas a time, the profit was not worth the trouble.

Boleros are in Evidence. Boleros are in evidence, but not- tho bolero of yesteryear, so -much as a new type altogether; such, .lor instance" as a famous dres.-maker’s overlapping type, of another's single undeiaun one, and another's hat, snug and unopened. I hose are a lew inoicaLo'ns of what is meant by new. There are many interesting movemenus in the new costumes, such as are developed by the use of the square ol a piece oi material, or by the uncut length in draperies. Tunic types are prevalent. The chemisefrock is important for sports wear, and for the’ youthful figure. Tuckings, of many kinds, are introduced in many ways, stitciimgs, too, arc of importance, skirt lenguis arc varied. The evening mode is inimitable, featuring ti my l rocks embroidered in jewels’ or tiimnied with fine laces. Very alluring are many of these evening and alternon frocks of chiffon, georgette, and lieur do soie, in delicate tints and in black, with slender bodies, and skirts characterised by expert drapery and (lares, smple ill effect and ma-terly in cut. Jewelled frocks cut with a " fine comp ex simplicity, have for decoration a single ■ large jewel, which icplaees the somewhat banal flower.

We have just seen that pastel shades arc ’ laduouab.c this sea.-on, where our dresses are concerned. And they are also to be fash.doable lor our pcnidro.s-de-riz. These pastel p'oudres-de-riz blend so easi’y, and hard.y ever swear at one another. By the way, have. you. tried these new powders? You just ni.x ahd mix, until you get the nuance that suits'you best, et voil.i! The trouble is that one ’never gets exactly the same, shade twice run-, ning. Just the . difference" between■■ a liot-house peach and one of the. other sort, but quite exasperating all the same in these da\s ol hyperc, tied dancing partners. Hofvcvcr,; as . one of them remarked the other night: “A woman’s privi ,o ge is to change ner complexion..’f