LURE OF MOUNT EVEREST.

Timaru Herald, Volume XCVIII, Issue 18084, 28 June 1924, Page 9

LURE OF MOUNT EVEREST.

Dizzy Heights Unconquered. UNDYING STORY OF GALLANT ENDEAVOUR. By Cable—Press Association—Copyright LONDON, June 20.

Mr Norton, acting leader of tho Everest Expedition, in a despatch dated June 8, from the camp at a height of 21,000 feet, east of tho Rangbuk Glacier, relates the almost superhuman difficulties of the final assault, especially the demeanour ot the native porters, enough to daunt the hardiest spirits. It had been already decided to modify" the original plans owing to the moral and physical exhaustion of the native porters. It was anticipated that a few would havo been available to assist the" climbers above the 23,000 feet, and that the climbers would discard oxygen Tor tn least two attempts to reach tlie summit, sleeping two nights on the mountain above 23,000 feet. The weather was then almost perfect. The peak stood out clear cut in the azure fsk.v. The symptoms of a monsoon had disappeared, but the explorers knew that a monsoon might at any moment hurst with full force. Fifteen picked porters, distinguished by- the name of “Tigers,” were assembled, and the stage set for the final attempts.

The weather continuing perfect. Mallory. Bruce, and nine “Tigers” established a camp on the North Col on June 1, and began the ascent of the great north ridge on .Tune 2. in order to establish ramp No. 5, but suddenly a bitter north-west wind nearly blew the porters off their feet. Progress was one long fight against the wind and Ibe altitude, sometimes on rock, sometimes on snow, at an angle of 45 dorw--. ll was hoped to establish onmn No. 5 on the sheltered side of a rhiee at 25.800 feet. .At 25.000 feet the endurance of the porter •: began to flag, and only four reached the camp. The remaining five dropped their burdens. General Brnee and one “Tiger” was forced to make several trips to bring un the stores. White men cannot carry loads at these altitudes with imnnnity. and it was scarcely to be wondered at. that General Bruce’s heart was strained. though happily only temporarily. Thus onmn No. 5 was finally" established. These picked posters were retained and tin remainder sent hack. Gbv"io"«lv ovewthin" depe,,.mn upon tlm morale and physical of these three.

General T!ri"-n’s persuasive powers failed to arouse their enthusiasm foi the morrow’s task. The wind seemed to kil' their snirits. On the morrow if was intended tn make an early start, hut while nr----i -.a ring breakfast they obtained most unwelcome news —only one porter was f: f f>> proceed, the other two prefos -.1 i n he sick and. lotcllv unable in ran-,- their loads. Tt was fairlv evdepi ib-ii (he (hreo porters hail shot Ihmr bolt Ml'T a

T, i -i,. f ronsnHal ion 1t wu - do, r,'.i,,rn 1() (’■'Pin Vr>. 4 am] corrdihp

;for a furlh'-r af. i empi . This rle.oatch covers tho movements of the expedition h'-f prior to Maltorv and Twine sla’-ling on their fatal -i tempi for the summit.