FIRST THINGS AT TEMUKA.

Timaru Herald, Volume XCVIII, Issue 18084, 11 June 1924, Page 2 (Supplement)

FIRST THINGS AT TEMUKA.

CULTIVATING THE FIRST LAND FOR CROPPING. ‘EIGHTY-TWO AND STILL GOING STRONG’ “Eighty-two and still going strong” was the greeting which Mr. George Levens, of Temuka, gave a “Herald” man who waited upon him for some reminiscences of the early days. The veteran was working in his garden at the time, and no one would have guessed that he had been turning over Temuka soil for the past 65 yearsi Still hale and hearty his hearing is quite good, and the same may be said concerning his eyesight, while mentally he is as alert- as ever.

“You see that bluegum over there”, (pointing to a huge‘gum growing on “Willbwbank”), “well, that was the firsUbluegum planted in South Canterbury, and I planted it,” Mr Levens said; With "evident pride. Further conversation regarding the tree in question revealed the fact that the seed had-been obtained from an Australian bullock 'driver (Malcolm Mathias) who had carried, it- In'his waistcoat pocket for two yearsuand had given it to Mr Levens when searching his pockets for “doddle” which in those days used to be smoked in place of tobacco.

Mr Levens went to Temuka from Riccarton in 1859, in company with the late Mr. Wm. Neal, who took up and ploughed the first land at Temuka, Mr Levens working for him. They took the first horses and implements there and Mr Levens won the first ploughing match in South Canterbury, the field ploughed being where the railway station now stands. The prize was £lO. There was then no road between Temuka and Christchurch, but merely a track with tussocks, flax, tui and matakuru on either side of it. The traveller had to be guided to a large extent by the hills, and if foggy weather came on it was a case of having to camp until the fog lifted. Referring to the crops grown in those days Mr Levens said that the sleil in its virgin state was very prolific, and he could well remember cereal crops which yielded 120 bushels to the acre.

THE BIG FLOOD.

“But everything in Temuka,” he said, “dates from the flood.” And he went on to relate some o£ his recollections of that disastrous happening in 1868. I was then, said Mr Levens, living in a house on the Temuka river, situated about a mile north, say, from the post office, on about the A highest ground there is in the vicinity of the township. I don’t exactly remember what kind of weather we had on the morning of the 2nd, but it could not have been so bad in the afternoon as I was breaking in a colt to saddle, and was out with him after dinner, and when I took.the saddle off him I left it hanging on a fence about half a chain from the kitchen door. I mention this to show what the rain was like, if it could be called rain. At any rate, at about 4or 5 o’clock p.m. it set to work. All hands were in the house, but conversation was out of. the question on account of the noise made by the rain falling on the roof. I remember my attention being called to the. fact that I had left my saddle outside, so I at once made tracks to go and fetch it in. I suppose the time occupied in doing so might have been one minute at the outside, but I could not have been wetter if I had done the journey under water instead of overland. We never paid much attention to the state of the river, because the river in those days scarcely ever rose until after the rain had finished, but about 11 p.m. we heard a “cooee,” and went out to see who it was. We found it was Mr. J. McKinlay with an entire draught horse. Mr McKinlay asked us if we could accommodate him with stable-room for the horse as they had been compelled to shift all the horses out of the stables in town to save them from drowning. After taking stock of the river, and satisfying ourselves that it was still rising, we went into the house and waited for daybreak, as it was fearfully dark. About 2.30 a.m. Jack and I ventured forth and in making for the Main South Road we soon found that we were on an island, and had to follow

arge stream half way to Temuka to where it

crossed the Main Road, before we could ford it. We had decided to rouse up a neighbour, Mr. G. H. Thompson, and find out if he knew anjdhing about the state of things. We had to negotiate several large streams to get to his place. We roused George Henry and it appeared as if the whole of the plains had become a lake from the hills to the sea, with a few islands left here and there!

After having a good look round, it appeared to us at first that ourselves and those we knew of were the only survivors, but there was the Arowhenua bush visible, so we knew the Maoris at the pa would be all right, even if they had to climb the trees. After holding a short consultation, off we started—George Henry, Jack and myself—-and after fording the several streams before mentioned we fell in with a length of road' without any streams, from about Mr. S. Wright’s to where the Oddfellows’ Hall was, and there we fell in with the Temuka river. From there it was one continuous stream to the Maori Pa, so one may form an idea of'the depth of the water in the town. On coming to the edge of the water we found some panels of a brick’shed belonging to Mr Whitehead floating about. They were composed of Van Dieman’s Land palings nailed on rails,, so with these we made a raft, and with some light manuka rails we found floating about, we got on board and poled ourselves into the town, keeping as near the crown of the road as we could, but the nearer we got to the houses the stronger the current became, and our craft became unmanageable and we were washed with a tremendous crash against the north side of Mr. K. F. Gray’s iron foundry where we disembarked into about 3ft. 6in. of water, amidst scrap iron,

broken machinery, etc. Here we found several people perched on anything' they could find above water level. Mr. Gray's foundry stood

about where Mr. J. T. Hughes’s store now stands. The women and children were moved overnight on the backs of the men, and some curious jokes were told of the journey, as there was a terrific stream running down where the County Engineer’s residence now stands. It was said that some of the men set the ladies down in this while they rested! Some of the women and children had little more than their night-dresses on, most of them having gone to bed not dreaming of a flood of such magnitude. We waited about the foundry until the late Mr. Julius Mendelson opened his store, which would be between 4 and 5 a.m. His store at that time was where Miss Strachan’s shop now stands, and the lower floor was at that time raised about three feet above the level of the road, with a raised platform the

ll!!!ni!!i!U!!«!U!!!!!!l!«!nill!!l!l!illllllll!!!!»l9111!IHII!IIUI!l!!U whole length of the frontage. Mi'. Mendelson was bachelorising at the time, and slept in the store upstairs, the building being two storeys 'high. Messrs Clarkson and Turnbull did not fare so well at their store on the opposite corner. The water was running over the top of the staging in front of Mr Mendelson’s store and the instant he opened the door in washed a dead

sheep. We waded as far as the Royal Hotel, where the water was just on a level with the top of the bar counter. I don’t think there was anyone in the house at that time except poor old Coleman, who had been sitting on a chair on the top of the bar counter all night and could neither get one way or the other, neither could he reach far enough to get a “nip” which was still worse. Navigation was very dangerous about these premises. The trap-door of the cellar was washed away. The opening of the cellar was between the front door and the counter, so that anyone going in that way and not knowing the state of affairs below would just step down into the cellar, and be drowned. I believe I • was the m-sans of saving one man from going down by pulling him backwards into the water, and I nearly got a kicking for it until matters were explained, and then he thanked me. The next move was over to the Crown Hotel. There we found things a bit lively. The house was left open, and anyone could go and help themselves to what they liked, and there were several men under the verandah, the floor of which was raised a little, consequently the water was not do deep to stand in as it was out on the road. Some of these people were challenging some imaginary foe to fight, some were singing, and some praying, The water here just reached the top of the bar counter. By about 6 a.m. it had gone down considerably, and about this time Sergeant Ramsay was seeking volunteers

to try and get down to Martin’s place. Mr Martin kept the store where Mrs. James Marshall now lives, and nothing had been seen or heard of them, and it was feared the family were all washed away. Mr Rayner got up to town, and we knew that he was safe, but nothing had been heard oi the Martin family. Mr James Marshall and I volunteered, with Sergeant Ramsay to make an attempt to reach Martin’s place if possible. We got a horse each; Sergeant Ramsay had his own of course, and Mr Marshall supplied the other two. Most horses at that time, were good in the water as there were no bridges and they often had to cross the rivers in flood. The horse Sergeant Ramsay rode, and also Mr Marshall’s were good, but I can't say the same of the one that fell to my lot. We got as far as the first gully, which runs through the Fire Brigade Station,

and there we found the road had been washed away, and that it was impossible to cross, so we concluded that we would turn back and wait

an hour and then have another try, as the water was going down fast. me water was very cold, and we were tnoroughly soaked from head to foot. After an hour had elapsed we made another start. We reached the gully previously mentioned, and found that the water had gone dowm considerably, also that there appeared to be about a yard or rather more of the road or made-up portion of the gully not washed away. Across this we ventured, and after getting over the brow of the gully on the other side we were into deep water over the horses’ backs. I shall never forget the horse I was riding. I have ridden and handled many hundreds of horses in my time, but I never came across anything to equal this one. He would persist in keeping his head under water, and it took me all my time to keep his head out of water so that he could breathe. In fact he didn’t seem to care whether his head was out of the water or under it, but he seemed to prefer it under. He appeared to be afflicted with a suicidal mania. I believe he would just have lain down and drowned without a struggle had he been allowed, and the good-bye-old-chap sort of a look he cast back at me I shall always

remember. The other horses were taller than mine, consequently mine was the first to swim, and by this time we were nearly down to Col-

lins’s brick house, towards which my beautiful Arab floated. It was simply impossible to turn him, as the current was too strong' just there, so I never attempted it, but just let him go round the corner of the house into the quiet water which was formed there by the shelter of the house. In getting there I had swum over the top of the roadside fence without touching it. Here I managed to get the animal turned round, and gently urged him back towards the road, and when he got sight of the other horses he made one grand effort, but, oh, this time he touched the top of the fence, and down he went, and, as the song says, “I went with him.” Now, I was not dressed in swimming costume so swimming for me was out of the question, so I slipped my feet out of the stirrups and took a firm hold of the mane of my gallant steed, and so long as he kept his back upwards and didn’t stop down too long I’d made up my mind to stick to him; but the noble animal rose again. I think our heads came to the surface simultaneously, and I believe I heard him give his first snort. He seemed grateful for the change of elements, and I am sure I was. In the meantime, to save the brute from slipping back round the house again, Sergeant Ramsay and Mr Marshall had seized hold of some part of his anatomy and dragged him on a few paces to where he could touch the ground. We at once decided to return, as it was madness to attempt to go any further then; besides all the horses wanted a spell, having been in water at swimming depth the ■whole time. We were perfectly satisfied that no one had taken refuge in the brick house, and our only hope then was Mr Rayner’s chemist shop, so back we went for another hour’s spell. When we got back to the township the mud began to be visible in places instead of water, which was somewhat encouraging, so

after waiting about an hour we made another start. We took a bottle of brandy with us for the unfortunates, if we should find any. When we made this trip the flood had subsided about a foot. I was advised not to take the same horse again, but somenow I had become so much attached to him that I couldn’t allow another to replace him. We got on very comfortably this time as far as the brick house, but between that and the chemist’s shop there was a tremendous current. It was only a short distance to the shop. The door of the shop was in a sort of recess between the window and the corner of the building, so we decided to head all three horses for this doorway, where they might get a footing. We did so, and the three of them dashed into the doorway together, a space something less than four feet. There was a loft over the shop, where Mr Rayner used to keep his drugs, bottles, etc. This was close ' o

the roof, and from there we thought w r e could hear a human voice reply to .our shout, so we shouted again, and this brought Mr Martin down through the trap door of the loft, and from him we heard the sad news that they had lost two children and their grandfather, Mrs Martin’s father; that one of the children was washed away from Mrs Martin, and that the other was with his grandfather, who, for some unexplained reason, turned back while they were shifting from their own house. We could do nothing more for them just then, so we gave them the bottle of brandy and promised to rescue them as soon as possible. It was quite evident they were too late in shifting from their own home. No doubt it would be about the time the Orari overflowed and supplemented this river, that, together with the Opihi coming over here, and also the fact that it was high tide, all about the same time, which caused the water, as it was said, to rise about 12 feet in about as many minutes. The news we took back with us this trip was of a mixed character, and cast a still deeper gloom over the already ruined township, but there were soon plenty of willing hands ready to give assistance to those that were still alive, but out of danger. I well remember going down to Martin’s by way of the terrace on which Mr Kennedy’s house now , stands, with some, others, and from the terrace at the back of Martin’s store we could see a bullock dray. The water was just running over the bed of the dray. This was well on in the afternoon. The body of the grandfather was lying in the fore part of the dray, with its arms firmly clasped round the pole. The end of the pole was driven through the weatherboards of the store. The body of one of the children was found somewhere further down the river, and the other was found several days afterwards on the rifle range that now is. The ordeal that the Dean family passed through during the night of the flood was a terrible one. Mr. J. H. Dean’s place of residence at that time was a cob house situated abqut three or four chains beyond the present saleyards towards the river. The way these people were saved was nothing, short of a miracle. They never dreamt of such an extensive flood, and felt quite stecure until the water began to approach their dwelling. Then they made an attempt to reach the township, but the intervening land was still lower than that they then occupied, consequently escape was impossible. The water was rising at a fearful rate, and at first they got on top of tables or chairs or anything so as to keep the children dry, some of them being mere infants. At last this resource failed them, and taking into consideration the soluble nature of the building they were in, it being of “cob,” they could see that danger was imminent. Between their house* and the road was a kind of stable or shed built roqghly and strong, the uprights being large saplings sunk into the ground, and having a thatched roof, and they considered the roof of this shed would be their only chance of safety could they but get there. I think there were two men—Mr. J. H. Dean and his brother, Mrs Dean and three children. Mr Dean and his brother in some way succeeded in conveying the mother and children .on the roof of the shed. But then another difficulty arose. They found that out of a quantity of debris floating down some of it struck the shed and caused it to vibrate dangerously, and also that this debris had a tendency to accumulate against the structure, and it could be seen that; if this continued it would soon carry away the whole concern, so they rigged up a very temporary platform-to stand upon, and Mr Dean had to stand there all the time with a rail and push away such stuff as accumulated. This he had to do until the afternoon of the day following, when they were rescued. The other man had to assist in taking care of the children, who were astride of the roof. Strange to relate, the cob house was only partially washed away, and no doubt helped to break the force of the current from their frail building. At daybreak we could see the poor things, but were quite helpless so far as rendering them assistance went. The conduct of Mr Donnelly in trying to rescue these people was truly heroic, and Sergeant Ramsay’s also, and, as the “Timaru Herald” observed, should have received some recognition from the Provincial Council. Mr Dean, as well as others, suffered considerably from damage by water; in fact, thero were few indeed who did no* suf-

fer more or less by the flood. The most astonishing thing in connection with the flood is the surprising manner in which the people pulled themselves together afterwards,, and in so short a time.

Several important events took place during that year. The Temuka Rifles were formed, also a good band, with a newset of instruments and several other events worthy of note.

Perhaps it is not generally known where Georgetown is, but at the time of which I am writing it was of some importance. This little township came off remarkably well during the flood, and its inhabitants were rather inclined to laugh at us when we related our troubles to them. Why they should have got off so safely was not easily accounted for at the time as Georgetown was situated between the two risers, but I don’t think anyone there had to shift their quarters. Dr Rayner, of course, had to shift to the Maori Pa, and some of the Maoris had to shift to a higher level. There were two little hamlets on the south side of the Temuka river rejoicing in the euphonious appellations of “Little Hell” and “Scandalous Bay.” These have since had to give way to the rising town of Epworth. I believe ®.e residents of these places had to shift on to higher ground. Milford and the surrounding district was only in its infancy in the year ’6B. The principal damage done in this neighbourhood would be to crops, etc. Mr Medlicott, Mr Mcßratney, and Mr James Pilbrow lost heavily, but it was generally supposed that the flood water having been so widely distributed amongst the swamps, the force of the water was somewhat broken before it reached the ocean beach. At Kakahu, now known as Hilton, lived Mr Richard Sharp. : Ho and his household liad a very startling experience at that time. They had to suddenly leave the house and fly to the stockyard for shelter. . Here on a kind of staging across one corner of it, they had to “do a perish,” all night and part of the next day. Mr E. Pilbrow also was living in the vicinity, but on higher ground, and was consequently pretty safe. The-late Mr John Hay was residing on his farm at the time, and suffered-considerable damage, the water being high up in several of the buildings. Higher up the flat there was nothing to take any harm except some sheep belonging to Mr Alfred Cox; many of these were no doubt drowned.

Mr A. Kelman had a lively time of it on the Geraldine Flat. He had got scarcely settled down at the time he had no place to take refuge in except the bare, inhospitable plains, without a covering of any description, and with everything belonging to the family saturated. They had to remove and build again. The hills at the back of Hilton and Gapes’ Valley had a most peculiar appearance after the flood. It struck anyone at first sight as though'the mountains were dotted all over with new white stone houses. The effect was very pleasing to look upon, and it--excited our curiosity to such an extent that some of us had to go up and see what had happened, so we got up a small pighunting party and went to have a look at the hills. On arriving there we found these white places were land-slips, the hills being literally skinned. When examining the hills we found abundant evidences of former floods consisting of old land-slips overgrown and brown with age,'the same as the ’6B .ones are at present.

As giving an idea of the strength of the flood Mr Levens said that the engine which provided the power for Mr Gray’s foundry, was carried away about four chains, notwithstanding that it was bolted down to an ironbark frame, with iron stays. A substantial footbridge across the Temuka river was carried away to Milford Lagoon. Miles of wire fencing were also washed down to the sea beach, some with iron standards, and some -with posts, the fences being carried from many miles inland. It was easy to recognise that sheep and cattle which became entangled in this would be drowned. At the time of the flood there was a bull in the pound, but he made his escape, and his poundage fees were still owing. The bull was washed over the top rails of the pound, the rails being 7ft. high. Scores of casks, some of them full, were washed away from the brewery, and very few of the full ones were found again. A cob house at the back of the brewery was washed away bodily, and an adjoining house was partly carried away. For three weeks he had been engaged carding wreckage up to Temuka, where it awaited claimants. Most things that would float were found near the seabeach, and dead birds, and animals were found there in large numbers—fowls, duckb, geese, turkeys, sheep, cattle, horses, and pigs. The pigs proved themselves the handiest of all the animals in the water, being carried down stream on the bottoms of straw stacks, and on anything where they could get a foothold, with the result that many of them were eventually safely landed on properties miles away from those on which they belonged. In one case a sow and a litter of very young pigs were carried away On a heap of stable manure, and were landed oh a farm lower down, without the loss of a single pig. The whole countryside w’as covered with water, and every gully was a roaring torrent. Though the flood was disastrous, a wonderfully quick recovery from it was made.