LONDON FASHION NOTES.

Timaru Herald, Volume CV, Issue 16081, 30 September 1916, Page 3

LONDON FASHION NOTES.

That the designers of our spring and' summer dresses have lost none 01 th'eu- cunningl the man,y new and pretty My-.odels now' being shown prove -amply." It would, seem thai adversity, such a-, a &hoitago ot some materials and a not to rure raith .in dyes, had -sharpened their wits and caused 1 -them to overcome their difficulties with real triumph. A mingling ot frn o materials in one toilette ib seen m man> .instances, anc 1 one of the latest versions of the. convenient resource is an alliance of navy blue; taffetas brightened by chalk-white ciepe charm&use. A good renovation idea. ' . ' I

We appear to bo trying every typo of shoulder treatment; now, ~ experiments encouraged by the new capes anci pelci ines and the Tarious collars an rppn ' Everyone will be/glad tliat there is no arbitrary rulo that makes thei bottle neclv .shou.der, sloping- sheerdown/from . the-neck to. the i>]afnly sot-in sleeves, a test of obedienoo to fashion's commands.'', It is -a trying mode' to the maionty of a\ omen. Makejt the companion of full instead; of', plain sleeves, 'arid its" chara'ctcr changes entirely, and raise it by mean - of-epaulets and onco more there is a smartening influence. Upon'some of the blatlt evening dresses an upright shouldei full using cloudily md effeatively against whito shoulders, is a striking asset. THE LATEST 111P 4 YOKE. The Parisian dressmakers and tailors are making great use of ilic hip yoke, which reaches eight or 10 inches below the waist. . This yoke is ver.y careful ly fitted, and it is more often than not decorated with large and useful pockets. The pleated skirt is let into'this yoke, and the newest kilted skirts fall in: absolutely straight lines from hip to hem.

The corset makers of Paris seem de- | teirmned to bung aiiout a maiked | change of ligne. Rumours of this 1 change have been afloat for some time. | but now it may be said to be an accomplished fact. And we arei going I back to small waists and big hips. - A serious change of ligne will not' bn introduced in. the immediate future. J but, already are seen elaborate, .corsets | which had supple sides —neither whale- I bones nor steels over : the hips—-and | which were so shaped that they com- | plctely did away with the straight classic lines of yesterday.

PRETTY BELTS. ■To their aid a multiple of lovely ribbons have come, broad, of medium width, and very narrow; with delightblossom centres and bold black or dark edges sometimes'tipped with bullion. ,A dainty muslin frock had a- broad beln like a. Swiss one turned upside down, so that the straight line defines the slfMiderness of the waist, and the point is carried up to the fichu. Atone. side the belt is slashed to mark the appearance of three ends which haug far down upon the slcirt. ; A highly-pr>.ishcd coloured leather cincture and a. little narrow tie-sash willvary the appearance of a simpe gown. Another successful plan for turning an afternon frock into one for the evening is by swathing a width of brocaded silk round- tho waist a,nd letting ithang down at rhe back in the pointed swallow-tail train now worn again. HATS. "The latest "sports" hat—of pull-on order —is covered with toile .de jouy. It is untrimmed save for a band of velvet, .ribbon round the soft crown. A areat many cherries are now v worn oruthe hats, and delicious toques are also made with gooseberries and cur:vants, the ' tiny henries "0f... which are placed on a foundation of bright coloured taffetas. nattier blue with the currants, and white with the gooseberries. Tins is very prerty for the.evening.

■Many of the new linen coats nro quite tight fitting as far as tlie waist, where they are wedded =• to a pleated or gored basque. ' In Paris. coats of this order reach down well below the liip line, and they are worn over.ciheayily-pleatod skirts which hang in straight fo I ds from hips to hem. When a shaped basque is introduced it is alwa.ys_ very wide at-the hem and dainty waist-coats reveal themselves where the big rovers turn back in front. Flat horn buttons arc very much used oil pastel-

tinted linen coals; on imrc white linen it is considered correct to have mother-of-pearl buttons. ' ■ ■

Some of the new capes have a- decided look of the Henri II and 'Henri 111 - period. They are Svom well" Sfc the' back and are neld in place either by .bretellcs or a waistcoat.'These capes are made quit© sljort and aoarco'y como dojvn further than.the hip line. TKey are_ very smart when carried out v'in satin. or. black faille and lined with some bright colour, which should- al-. ■nays be in harmony with the dress.