NORTH AUCKLAND.

Taranaki Herald, Volume LXV, Issue 145754, 13 February 1917, Page 6

NORTH AUCKLAND.

A LAND OF GREAT POSSIBILITIES'. f THE PARLIAMENTARY TOUR. NO. 3. (By One pf the Party.) THE CAY OF ISLANDS. Russell ought to ho the, most delightful holiday resort in New Zealand. That it is not so is due in the main to the indifference of the inhabitants. The place wears n neglected appearance and is down at heel. Years ago Auckland people used to flock there in the summer time, sometimes hundreds spending the week-ends there, arriving in steamers and yachts, which gave the bay a very gay appearance, while the bench would ho thronged with people. When it was proposed to include Bussell in the Parliamentary tour no interest was shown, and it was only when Mr. Darby, proprietor of “The Gables,” undertook to accommodate the whole jiarty, that the organiser decided to visit the place.' There is a hotel and two or three smaller hoarding-houses, but Mr. Darby was as good as his word, and, with tho assistance of two of the storekeepers, provided for some 70 or so of the party, tho balflncc being billeted at Kawakawa, Opna and Paihia. The house had been closed for some time, and was only partly furnished, so that most of tho party had to bo content 1 with a camp stretcher, n blanket, and a pillow apioce. But Mr. Darby did his host, and the catering was quite excellent. Russell, historically speaking, is one of the most interesting towns of tho Dominion. It was close here, on a spot marked by the Marsden cross, that tho Rev. Samuel Marsden and Jus band of missionary settlers landed in December, 1814, and held tho first Christian service in Now Zealand on Christmas Day. It was tho first capital of New Zealand, and it was across the harbour that the Treaty of Waitangi was signed. At Paihia, also across the harbour. tho first printing press was set up in’ New Zealand. It was in Deep Water Cove that Cook, tho navigator, anchored his vessels. Indeed, the bay teems with historical associations. In its palmy days it was an important trading station. As many as thirty ships have been seen in the harbour at one time, including ships loading whale oil for America. The town reminds one of Apia and Nukualofa, with' its principal public buildings and business premises fronting the beach, from which a short wharf extends into deep water, and the similarity is quite striking as ono parades the “front” on a summer’s evening. One of the principal points of interest in the immediate vicinity is Flagstaff Hill, whereon Captain Hobson erected a flagstaff and hoisted tho Union Jack when he declared the Queen’s sovereignty over New Zealand on January 30, 1840. Tho flagstaff was later cut down by Hone Hoke. Indeed four times ho cut down flagstaffs on Maiki Hill, but to-day it is undisturbed, except by vandals who carve their names upon it. The track to tho top of the hil) is neglected. Another feature of interest is the old church and the graveyard surrounding it. The building is in a state of decay and has to be propped, while the churchyard is in a positively shocking condition, overgrown with fern and rubbish, headstones lying prone or toppling over, their inscriptions almost indecipherable, although. some of them are of intense interest, ns, for instance, that recording tho death of Hannah King Lethbridge, the first white woman born in New Zealand. An exception is the handsome monument to the memory of Tamati Waka Nenc, hut tho grave of the six seamen who fell in the defence of ICorornreka (or Bussell) on March 11, 1845, is sadly neglected, though,their names are carefully recorded on a tablet inside thefcjuireh.' It is a thousand pities that tho people of Russell do not take a greater pride in their surroundings and make their town more attractive to visitors. The land surrounding Russell is generally poor, and road communications are bad, but in its glorious harbour, ltd historic associations, and its fishing, the town has assets which might be turned to excellent account if the people had a little enterprise. ACROSS THE BAY. As soon ns the tide served on the following morning the party embarked on board a steamer and two launches, the writer accompanying Mr. Flynn, the Customs officer and Inspector of Fisheries, in the Government launch, and we cross the bay for Kerikeri, where the cars are awaiting us. Here are to be found the oldest houses in the Dominion, one very substantially built of stone, the other of wood, nearly a hundred years old, and still in a good state of preservation. The stone building is used as a store. Close at hand is Mr. George Riddell’s property, where we halted for refreshments. Mr. Riddell, who is wellknown in New Plymouth, has here some ten or eleven thousand acres of land, which he bought partly improved, and now, after effecting further improvements, proposes to cut up again. The homestead is a comfortable —and hospitable—ono, and the stock look as though they were on good pasture, better than one would give the \land at first sight credit for providing. But the carrying capacity affords evidence of the possibility of converting . apparently very poor gum laud into useful country by tho judicious outlay of capital. On leaving Kerikeri the land is of poor quality for many miles, with here and there an isolated patch which gives promise of better things. Before proceeding far tho first accident occurs, a lord breaking an axle in negotiating a bad hole. One of the passengers is accommodated in the writer’s car, the others remaining to help the driver to effect repairs. Fortunately another Ford in the rearguard carries a spare axle, and after several hours’ delay the repairs are effected and the car rejoins tho main body a day or two later. Passing through Kaeo, an oasis in the desert of poor country, where there is a dairy factory, another car, through a defect in the steering gear, runs over a bank and turns turtle, but no one is hurt, and plenty of assistance is soon at hand to haul the car, uninjured, back to the road. WHANGAROA HARBOUR. We are behind time, and Wliangaroa town has to be cut out of the programme and all speed made for Totara North, a small place across tho harbour. Here refreshments are served in a sawmill, and afterwards the party is taken for a trip down the harbour to Ranfurly Bay, whore there is a large gathering of Maoris to welcome us. The intention had been to give ns a Kapa-Maori feast, but as we were so late the Maoris had given us up and enjoyed the feast themselves. However, half-a-dozen launches

were requisitioned and tbe party taken down to the bay, crossing on route the spot where lies the wreck of the Boyd, burned by tho Maoris in 1809 after the crew had been massacred. Captain Taylor, of Auckland, who -with his three daughters was enjoying a cruise among the harbours of the East Coast, kindly placed his motor launch at the organiser’s disposal, and it was in his boat that the writer went down the harbour. On reaching Ranfurly Bay we were treate'd to some fine haka dancing by the Maoris, whose chief. Mita Hapi, an exceedingly dignified and handsome man of the old type, welcomed ns, Sir Frederick Lang responding, and Hone Tauhnrangi interpreting. Standing beside Mita Hapi was his grand-daughter, a very pretty Maori girl, whom Sir Frederick Lang saluted in quite fatherly fashion, to the envy of some of tho younger members of the party. AVhahgaroa is a magnificent harbour,’ extensive enough to shelter all the navies of the world, completely landlocked, and with deep water everywhere. The entrance is good in all weathers, and so little is there to indicate from the‘ outside the existence of a harbour that, it is stated, it was only discovered by white men through Maori canoes being seen emerging from it. The scenery surrounding the harbour is of surpassing grandeur, special features being the St. Paul and St. Peter Rocks, situated on either side of the harbour. It is late when wo leave Totara North for our next resting place; Mangonui, but the road is in very fair order, and good time is made. It is, however, quite dark when the long procession of cars enters the little town. The cars, all with powerful headlights and ’’close together, made a wonderfully weird and pretty effect as they pass along the breastwork fronting the one street, the lights reflected in the water. It was a sight that will long be remembered by the inhabitants. (To be Continued.)