TEN YEARS' WAR AND DESOLATION.

Taranaki Herald, Volume XL, Issue 9123, 2 July 1891, Page 8 (Supplement)

TEN YEARS' WAR AND DESOLATION.

Old Taranaki settlers have fi painful recollection of the clay when every man in the district had to take up arms in defence of his home; and even now persona need not go far from the town boundary to have their memories refreshed by visiting spots which have gained a sad celebrity. This is a painful period to dwell on in the history o£ Taranaki, and, therefore, beyond showing what the settlers suffered, and the losses they sustained, we do not intend to go into very lengthy details of the "stirring military events," or the blunders committed, during the decade we are now referring to.

On February 22, 1860, Colonel Murray published in both English and Maori the proclamation of martial law, which was declared to be in force over the whole Province of Taranaki. On March Ist, Governor Gore Browne and suite, accompanied by Colonel Gold, a military staff, and 200 rank and file of the 65th Regiment, arrived at New Plymouth from Auckland, and on the same day H.M.S. Niger, Captain Cracroft, anchored in the roadstead. On Monday, March 3rd, the troops were inarched to Waitara to take possession of the disputed block of land that Te Teira had sold to the Government, and on which a rebellious tribe had erected a fortified pah. Governor Browne, on March 6th, wrote to Wi Kingi as follows: " You have presumed to block up the Queen's road; to build or. the Queen's land ; and to stop the free passage of persons going and coming This is levying war against the Queen. Destroy the places you have built, ask my forgiveness, and you shall receive it. If you refuse, the blood of your people be on your own head. I shall fire on you in twenty minutes from this time if you have not obeyed my order." On the arrival of the escort from town the pah was found to be deserted. On March 13th and 14th Te Teira and hia party pointed out the boundaries of the land. On March 16th it was reported that during the previous night the natives had erected another pah, which waa said to be " very strong, with double palisading, ditches, and galleries." A similar letter to the above was sent the following day to Wi Kingi, ordering him to move off the land. The natives refused to receive the document, consequently Colonel Gold resolved to destroy the pah. During the day an attack was made, and the pah taken. The first shot had been fired, and hostilities between the two races then commenced in earnest.

On the morning of March 24, news was brought into New Plymouth that several hundred natives — estimated by some at 800 and by others at 1000 — belonging to the Ngatiruanui and Taranaki tribes, were on their way to Ratapihipihi. the chief Manahi's place. The advance guard consisted of seventy natives, who on ai'riving at the spot danced a war dance. A force consisting of 130 Taranaki Rifles, with 200 o1"'o 1 "' the 65th Regiment, went out on the following day (Sunday) in order to prevent the natives making a raid on the settlers' cattle; but as an order had been issued by Colonel Gold that the Europeans were in no way to engige with the rebels in the bush, the natives were allowed to retire unmolested. On the Tuesday, March 27, at about 5 o'clock in the evening, intelligence was brought into town of a most wanton and savage murder at Omata. It appears that Mr S. Ford was going to see some sheep at Mr Grayling's farm, and had that morning ridden out to Moturoa with Mr George to purchase six of his bullocks. Mr Ford then proceeded alone, when after passing the Omata Inn he was shot down by some natives concealed behind a furze hedge, who afterwards tomahawked him. Mr H. Passmore, who was drivinghis bullock cart to get some puriri for fencing, was also shot, as well as Mr S. Shaw, who was accompanying him, and who it was believed was going to his farm to mi Ik his cows. The three bodies were found within a few yards of each other. The next morning (March 28th), the Rev. H. H. Brown found two boys, Farker and Pote, in the bush close to Omata. The boys ha.l been tomahawked, one of them having had his hand cut off. Thes»e fearful and cruel murders filled every heart with sorrow and commiseration for the bereaved. The victims appeared to have been indiscriminately fallen upon, and they met their horrible doom, not with firearms in their possession, but engaged in industrial and peaceful pursuits. The bodies were all brought into the military hospit 1, and the horrible sight awakened in the settlers feelings of the keenest revenge, and a desire that the savage perpetrators of the brutal murders and all leagued with them should expiate their dark deeds with their lives.

An expedition was organised, and started for Oinata about noon on March 28th, for the double purpose of rescuing the Rev. MiBrown's family and others who were on their land, and to punish the perpetrators of the cruel murders of the day before. The military force consisted of No. 10 Company of the 65th Regiment, commanded by Colonel Murray, 25 blue jackets under Lieutenant Blake, R.N., and 102 Volunteers and Militia in charge of Captain C. Brown, Major Stapp, and Major Atkinson. Then followed the battle of Waireka, when the Taranaki Volunteers and Militia bravely met their rebellious foe for the first time face to face. We have not space to give details of the fight. The Maoris, outnumbering the Europeans and occupying a stronger position, were gradually surrounding the little civilian force, when Colonel MuiTay, who was in command of the military force, sounded the retreat at sundown, and leftthe Volunteers and Militia to the mercy of the natives. Providentially, Captain Cracroft, of H.M.S. Niger, had, late in the afternoon, gone out with a small party of sailjrs, well armed, and seeing the position of affairs, decided upon marching to the pah to haul down a flag which had all day long flaunted defiance to the Europeans. It was twilight when Captain Cracroft's force ascended the Waireka hill, and bullets were falling about the men like hail. The natives, however, were somewhat taken by surprise at the attack, and a panic ensued, when they fled in dismay. The Maori flag was hauled down, and the brave little force, with their captain at their head, then marched into town.

The excitement of the people in Now Plymouth that night was great, and indignation was openly expressed at the conduct of Colonel Murray in leaving the Volunteers to their fate. Ilowever, after an hour or two the welcome intelligence that the Volunteers and Militia were on their way to town, spread like wildfire, and there was great rejoicing. Then, as they marched into New Plymouth, the cheers were deafening. Fathers, mothers, brothers, sisters, and wives lined the street, and rushing forward to peer into the face of some loved one, enquired, " Is that you, Charlie?"' or, "Is our John come back ? " It was, however, when the gallant blue jackets marched into the town with the captured flag stuck on their bayonets, and singing "See, the Conquering Hero comes," that the people seemed mad with joy and gratitude. Some persons ran about with trays of sandwiches, others with buckets of beer or grog; and even some of the women threw their arms round the necks of the sailors and kissed them when they halted for refreshment, so excited were all over the affair. The hand-shaking and earnest and heartfelt " God bless you's ! " that were showered on the gallant preservers were certainly s ich as were never heard before or since in New Zealand. Captain Cracroft was asked to allow his men to remain on shore, the guests of the inhabitants, but he deemed it prudent to send them at once on board

the Niger. A fall account of this event has been written, and those interested will no doubt seek it elsewhere. °

Af ter this fight, reinforcements of Imperial troops from the other Colonies were sent to New Plymouth. The natives also began to concentrate their forces and to erect fortified pahs in all directions outside the town. The stockades at Omata and Bell Block were garrisoned, and temporary guard rooms were built on the racecourse. Every night a cordon of sentries kept watch round the town, many of whom were without shelter, although the weather was very wet. Major Parris, about this time, was sent for by Rewi, the great Waikato chief, and he went to see him. On his return, however, he narrowly escaped being shot by an ambuscade of Waikato natives; but the chiefs Bpiha and

Hone prepared against it, and escorted Major Parris safely into town.

The battle at Puketakuere was the next engagement which took place, when a large number on both sides were killed. Captain Seymour (now Lord Alcester) was wounded in the leg by a bullet, and Lieut. Brooke, of the 40th Regiment, was killed and horribly mutilated by the natives. Any of the settlers who attempted to go to their farms were waylaid by the Maoris and shot. Captain Richard Brown, whilst seeking a stray horse, was shot at and killed. A young man named Hugh Corbyn Harris was shot on June 29th, whilst going into the bush for firewood; and John Hurford, when visiting his farm at Omata, on August 3rd, was also killed by the natives. On August 20th, Ephraim Coad was shot dead on the beach, near the

mouth of the Henui river; and Henry Crann, whilst searching for his bullocks on the Avenue Road, was killed by a Puketotara native*

An attack was made on the Maori post tion at Mahoetahi on November Gth, 1860, when the natives suffered very severely, several Waikato chiefs being killed. There were some losses also on the European side. Whenever the natives hud a chance they killed a white man, and amongst those thus picked off were John Hawken, rfear Huirangi, and Joseph Sarten, at the Henui, in the lane running down from the church toward? the beach. On December 28th,asthe Waikatos had assembled in large numbers at Matarikoriko and Huirangi,

General Pratt decided to attack them, and after some sharp fighting the rebels were compelled to retire with great loss, leaving the British in posse«e>ion of the place. In the hope of diverting the General's attention from the north, the Maoris to the south again occupied Waireka and Burton's Hill, forming a series of fortifications and field works of a very extensive kind. By this means they commanded every road, and thus confined the Europeans within the town and stockades. An expedition was accordingly sent out, and many skirmishes with the natives took place. On January 23rd, 1861, the military forces attacked the Huirangi redoubt, when a most sanguinary conflict took place, but it was taken by the Europeans — when over fifty Maoris, dead or dying, were discovered in the trenches. There were thir-

teen chiefs amongst those skin, but many of those killed were beyond identification. The European casualties were five killed and eleven wounded.

Captain William Cutfield King, of the Volunteer Rifles, visiting his estate at Woodleigh (now owned by Mr J. Hughes) was shot at, and his horse wounded, on February Bth, by some natives in ambush. He dismounted, and tried to seek refuge in the house, but two natives fired at him, and he fell badly wounded His murderers then ran up to him, when he said — "I am badly wounded ; leave me." This was answered by one of them discharging both barrels of his gun at Captain King's head. This cowardly, murderous deed was witnessed from Marsland Hill. The Volunteers and Militia turned out, but they were too late, either to render their young

captain aid or to intercept his murderers. The body was found pierced by six bullets, three through the head, two in the bo.ly, and one in the thigh. And so the year passed. The Maoris had burnt the settlers' homes, and foully murdered many of the owners of them. The women and children had been driven into town, and all the cultivations destroyed. Attempts had been made to disperse the natives where they congregated, and success, as a rule, was the result of the engagements; but the authorities were not unanimous in their opinions with regard to how the natives should be treated, and the vacillating conduct of those in command paralysed the arms of those who were capable and willing to settle the matter in a sharp and decisive manner. Governor Browne was replaced by Sir George Grey, and the Government

who advocated a "vigorous policy" were turned out by a Ministry who thought that the " blanket and sugar " policy was the best. They tried it, but even that failed to settle the difficulty. General Cameron, who arrived at Auckland on March 27th, 1861, came on at once to Taranaki. A truce had just been d clared, which had been brought about by Wiremu Tainihana te Tarapipi (Anglice", William Thompson), a Waikato chief of considerable influence and ability. The truce, however, only lasted till Mon day, May 4th, 1863, when news came into New Plymouth that a party of armed men of the 57th Regiment, who were on their way to town in charge of a prisoner, were, without warning, fired at by an ambuscade, and most of them killed. The rebellion, which had only been slumbering, then broke out afresh with redoubled

violence, and Wellington and Auckland also became involved in the trouble. It is impossible in our limited space to give even a brief summary of the various engagements and skirmishes that took place about this time, but fighting prevailed until General Chute, in January, 1866, marched a very large force from the south, through the dense forest, which then existed to the east of the mountain, to New Plymouth, and from thence round the coast to Patea and Wangauni, destroying as he went along all the natives' plantations and pahs The Maoris silently watched the movements of this large force, and in one or two places attempted to defend their pahs when attacked, but the General destroyed all before him, and thus struck terror into the hearts of the rebellious natives, who then became sullen, like a defeated, but not a

subdued, race. There was no proclamation of peace, but the Goveinment confiscated the land of ail those Maoris who did not come in and declare their loyalty to the Queen. After General Chute's campaign, however, many of the settlers, although they had no guarantee of safety, went on to their farms, and were unmolested by the natives, who continued to maintain a sullen truce. It being considered that the rebellious Maoris had been subdued, the Imperial troops were gradually withdrawn from the colony. At one time there were over four thousand soldiers in Taranaki, but in June, 1867, it was left without one. The natives watched the departure of the troops, and when all but the last regiment had left the colony, they made another attempt to drive the Europeans from the land. , On May 10th, 1868, an urmed

party of natives fired at two men who were engaged putting a log on a saw pit near Waihi, close to the Waimate Plains. A colonial force was at once raised to quell this second rebellion, and the natives now found they had to deal with a lot of deter rained men, who knew the bush as well as their savage foe. There were many mistakes made, many valuable lives sacrificed, but the Maoris were harassed and driven, from one spot to another without having time to rest or prepare for their future wants. At first the natives had the advantage over the Colonial forces, and even had the audacity to attack the Turuturumokai Redoubt, when Captain Ross andl several men were killed. Our forces, however, retaliated, and attacked and took Te Ngutu-o-te-manu ; but were repulsed at Ruaruru. At the latter engagement a large

number of Europeans lost their lives, amongst them being Major Von Tempsky,, Captain Buck, Captain Palmer, Lieutenant Hastings, Lieutenant Henry Hunter,. Corporal Russell, whilst Captain Rowanr and Dr Best were severely wounded. Shortly after their defeat at Ruarurn % Colonel McDonald, who had had charge of the forces, resigned, and was succeeded by Colonel Whitmore. On November 7th,. 1868, Colonel Whitmore made an attack on a pah at Okutuku, but was repulsed" after a hard fight. Several were killed, amongst them Major William Hunter and Sergeant Kirwin. Titoko Waru, elated with his success, now approached towards* Wanganui, burning houses, and creatinggreat alarm in all parts of the district. On? November 21st, news of the massacre at Poverty Bay, by Te Kooti, reached Tara-

naki, and another general rising of the Maoris all over the island was generally feared. Titoko Waru'a forces, however, had, notwithstanding their victories, been. greatly reduced in number, and their food running short, they tried to make for Ngatimaru, where Wi Kingi lived in seclusion, hoping to get help from that, chief. It was during this fray with the southern natives that on Saturday, February 13th, 1869, Captain Gascoigne, his wife, and four children, who were living at the blockhouse at the White Cliffs, and two military settlers, Milne and Richards, were murdered by a war party from Mokau, with a view to embarrass the Colonial Government. The Rev. Mr Whiteley, who was on his usual clerical visit to the settlers there, was seen approaching on horseback in tlie dusk of the Saturday evening, and

.as he was ascending the hill he and the , 1 animal under him were shot dead. This ' again unsettled the district, and those who i were on their land again hurried their i into New Plymouth. Colonel Whitmore followed up the i TCtreatii.g force of Titoko Waru to an island in the Ngaire swamp, and would there have captured the chief, but for some ! friendly natives, who assisted the rebels to ( escape. The other natives were scattered in all directions, some seeking refuge in caves. About this time a change of Ministry took place, which at once altered the current of affairs. The Fox-Vogel Ministry replaced the Stafford Government, and with Sir Donald McLean aa Uative Minister, a truce was instantly j proclaimed. The natives wero evidently ( as tired of fighting as were the settlers, i and finding that the pakehas were not to be ! of the land, they were only too ready to make terms of peace. A fresh start was again made by the settlers on their farms, and with the ex- i ception of a " passive obstruction" offered l>y Te Whiti and his followers in 1880-81, ■when they ploughed up the settlers' paddocks as a protest against the land being taken from them, there have been no further disturbances with the natives in this district. THE SETTLERS MAKE A FRESH START. Almost isolated from the rest of the ■colony — from the world, in fact — the settlers bore up against the many difficulties which beset them on every side with praiseworthy fortitude. Peace was ' supposed to have been established with the natives; but it was many years before ; confidence was restored between the two races. To the south of the town was an | almost impenetrable bush, which was swarming with Maori"-; and to the east j and the west there were hordes of natives who regarded the Europeans with sullen looks. The only outlet, therefore, to the world was by the sea — an open roadstead where a steamer called once or twice a week, and she might only stop, perhaps, an liour or two, to put out or take in cargo. It has been a wonder to many that anyone remained in the place after what the settlers had encountered during the war. There was little doing in the shape ©f business, and danger still menaced them on every side. They had already lost innny of their relatives and friends, .and their time and capital had been wasted, still the}' remained in the place. There must have been some unaccountable about the spot that attracted people to it — some magnetic influence which prevented them from leaving Taranaki. It might have been the .beauty of the scenery — the exhilarating liealthfulness of the climate — the fertility of the soil — all might have tended to attract the people to the district, for, once liaving settled down and become owners of the soil, they seemed ready to fight for it, to live on half a loaf a clay, in the midet of •danger — to do anything in fact but part with what they had acquired. * An attempt was made to populate the place by means of military Bettlers, and land was set apart for that purpose, when several companies were put upon it. But this defence scheme was not a success, for as soon as the men's terms expired, and their pay and rations stopped, many of them disposed of their sections and cleared out of the place. The population of the Province of Taranaki in 1870 was about 4350, and this included the whole of the district, from Mokau at the north, to Patea at the south. Although there was a very limited population, itVould be very difficult to find another spot in New Zealand where more enterprise has been exhibited by the people with a view to the development of the mineral and other resources of the place than was io be ■found in New Plymouth. It would not be an easy task, we feel sure, for anyone to enumerate the various limited liability companies which have been started at different times in the place, and the sum expended in numerous enterprises sand lost must have been a very large one In the various Petroleum Companies started the settlers must have lost over £7000 in theirendeavourstogetto "oil or London." or to "oil or Dublin;" but just when they iiad reached the oil and there was every Indication of success, a commercial depression set in, and as the extra capital required was not forthcoming, the works had to be closed, and remained so till a month or so ago, when a fresh start was made to sink for oil, with every prospect of success. The manufacture of phoimium tenax into liemp was the next enterprise entered into , by the townspeople, who started a large number of companies, but owing to imperfect machinery they all came to f?rief, and the shareholders lost their money. Over £10,000 must, we feel sure, have 4>een spent in attempting to develop that industry. The ironsand, which is to be found in such abundance on our shores, lias caused thousands of pounds to be expended in trying to make it into a marketable article. The " Pioneer Steel Company ' spent close on £10,000, and the "New Zealand Titanic Steel and Iron Company " .another £20,000; whilst the amounts that

have been contributed from time to time by private persons, with a hope of bringing about a successful issue, cannot be estimated at less than the former sum. That the sand can be smelted has been proved over and over again, but that it can be produced at a paying price has yet to be accomplished. Whilst the Provincial Governments had been growing in power in the larger districts, in Taranaki it had been dwarfed owing to the war and want of population. Being one of the original Provinces under the Constitution Act, although the population did not exceed five thousand, the district had all the Governmental machinery required for the larger provinces of Auckland, Wellington, Otago, and Canterbury. I The people elected their Superintendent, \ and the members of the Provincial Coun- | oil; they had a Town Board, and a large } number of Road Boards; they had a District Court, a Resident Magistrate's Court, and His Honor the Chief Justice held a criminal and civil session every half year, when there were any cases to be tried. There was a Collector of Customs, Commissioner of Crown Lands, Registrar of Deeds, Births, Deaths, and Marriages. Joint Stock Companies, Deputy Commissioner of Stamps, Curator of Intestate Estates, Registration and Returning Officers, Sheriff, Crown Prosecutor, &c, &c., as in the other provinces. Such a host of offici ils as would be required to fill the-e departments, it might be thought would absorb the revenue of the province, but the pruning knife had been so often at work, and offices had been so amalgamated that the expenses were i comparatively small. A more cheaply governed province than Taranaki did not I exist in New Zealand. The Superintendent had only £'600 a year; Provincial Secretary, I £150; Provincial Treasurer, nil; Clerk in , Superintendent's Office, and also of Council, | £125; Speaker, £25; members of Council expenses, £30 — making a totnl of £630 for the legislative department. There was an Assistant Treasurer (really the Accountant of the province), who received £200 a year. The Superintendent, who was Mr F. A. Carrington, had no Executive, the offices of Provincial Secretary and Treasurer being non-political ; the names being retained only because certain Ordinances that had been passed during previous Superintendencies, rendered it necessary that there should be some one holding those offices to sign documents The Provincial Council consisted of fifteen members, of whom one was elected Speaker. Members did not meet (as in nther provinces) day after day till the work was done ; but assembled once a week when there was anything to do, and then " adjourned till called together by the Speaker." The members were not paid, therefore this slow system of getting through the work was not expensive. In this Council all the formulas of the Imperial Parliament were maintained. Messages from His Honor were brought down in the pocket of Mr Speaker, or wero quietly given him by the clerk previous to the business commencing. They were read, and ordered to be considered, in the usual way. The notices of motion were debated upon, and Government business took precedence of everything else at a certain hour. Everything done was perfectly parliamentary, even to the giving a refractory member into the charge of the Sergeant-at Arms. There were poets in those days, and this is how a circumstance that happened in the Council was rendered into verse : — A WARNING TO ALL COUNCILLORS. The Council sat in deep debate, Intent on smelting sand ; When, glowing with the fervent theme, Up jumped a fiery man, And it is said he sung or swore That oft from Camoria's rugged shore, Pigs of iron were shipped galore To Stafford's pipe-clayed strand. An ancient boy, who hailed from thence, To this could not agree, And usiDg language hot and strong In contradicting he ; 'Tis said he sung, or oven swore, That ne'er from Cambria's rugged shore Was ever shipped the iron ore, For Stafford could produce far more. This speech, in contradiction full, So very flatly made, Did to the very centre stir That ittle fie-y blade; Who to the chair did make appeal, Times two or three 'tis said ; Which did not deign to wink its eye Or nod its polished head. Philosophers do sagely say, All natural bodies change, When subject to the test of heat When each his reached its range ; Thus solids into liquids run, And liquids fly to gas ; Making much spluttering and fuss, When it doth come to pass. E'en man is not exempt from this Now well known law, 'tis said, For heat doth change the coolest brain, And melt the thickest head ; The chair's neglect to sympathise,

Made, like a rocket, Up n rise, | And to his feet he red hot flies, And tells the Stafford man he liea. " Ho, Dunn ! thine office hitherto Has been a sinecure, No wight has yet thy clutches felt, Within this chamber door ; But now seize on this peppery carle, And lead him off straightway Into the dungeon on my left Until the dawn of day." Thus up and spoke sagaciously The Speaker from his chair, And up and fired his little shot, Each member then and there ; And told the culprit he must down Upon his marrow bones, And full recantation make, In humblest of tones. So after quibbles one or two, He eat the leek, 'tis said, And left the chamber cooler if More dense about the head ; So councilmen of all degree, Do warning take I pray ; And when your heads get very hot, Mind what your tongues do say. The poet, however, was wrong in one respect. Mr Upjohn did not have to " eat the leek," for although he was taken in charge by the Sergeant-at-Arms, and retired to a room which was used as the Provincial Council library, the memb j rs, after discussing the affair, found they had no power to punish the disorderly member beyond a reprimand, so he was allowed to return to his seat, when the Speaker said something ■u'hich was intended to be very severe. Mr Upjohn rose to reply, when the Speaker said, " Sit down, sir !" This was followed by some " hear, hears" from the members. So Mr Upjohn sat down — and thus ended an affair which looked serious at one stage. The Sergeant-at Arms was also Sergeant of Police, and held many other offices. The members of the Council were very equally divided in 1871, one-half connected with the agricultural interest and the other residents of the town. Mr Upjohn was leader of the Opposition, and was very proud of his independence, and used to tell with gusto in the Council that he never could be bought, although repeated attempts had been made when he was in England to do so by political parties. Mr James Dingle, who, at the time of the White Cliffs massacre, visited Wellington, and had an interview with the Governor, on which occasion he told His Excellency a little of his mind in true Devonshire style, was also a member. The Chamber held its sittings in the upper room of the Taranaki Institute, now the Town Hall. The room was divided into two portions — one side being for " Law and Justice," and the other for '• Legislature." This large room was divided in half by a movable partition, on which sliding pane's were sometimes fixed. But these panels were very seldom put up, as the officers of the Law Court and the officers of the Provincial Council generally arranged so that the two should not be sitting at the same time. There was a little contretemps between the Resident Magistrate and a Provincial Councillor (Mr Upjohn) once, one holding up for the majesty of the law, and the other the privileges of the Council. It happened this way : The Court was sitting, and a case going on, at the time a Select Committee had to meet in the Council Chamber. Mr Upjohn was on this Committee, and I walked into the Council Chamber with his hat on. The Magistrate told the policeman to ask him to take it off, but the coni stable, in a brusque way. said, "Take your hat off." Mr Upjohn's dignity was touched, and he refused, so the policeman knocked it off. There was a scene. The Councillor, wroth with the indignity, stood on his privileges. He was not in the Court-room, and had a right to wear his hat, and threatened to do all manner of impossible things to the constable. There were a great many persons attending the Court that day, and this little affair caused much laughter, therefore the Resident Magistrate, seeing the difficulty of the situation, with some tact adjourned the Court for a couple of hours. 'I he police force consisted of a sergeant and two constables for the town, and two district constables for the country. The salary of the sergeant, with forage for horse, was £120 a year; and he occupied the positions of sergeant-at arms in the Provincial Council, poundkeeper for the town, registrar of dogs, inspector of weights and measures, and inspector of nuisances. The constables received £84 per annum, and acted as messengers to the Superintendent's office and Provincial Council. The district constables had £5 each. The whole of this Department cost only £298. No province could have done it cheaper. The Gaol cost £418, viz., gaoler and matron, £108 ; warder, £75 ; rations and fuel, £170; contingencies, £65. There were seven or eight persons, on an average, always in prison, whose work more than paid for this establishment. The ke pof prisoners was reckoned to cost about Is 5d per diem, and the value of their labor

1

estimated at 2s per day each. The Hospital cost about £463. The surgeon received his salary from the Native Department for attending on the natives, and got a gratuity of £25 from the Provincial Government; the steward and matron received £103; rations and fuel, £300 ; medicine, £30. There were few destitute persons, for £200 was found sufficient to meet their wants during the year 1871. There were four ports of entry in the Province, and the cost of the Harbour Department amounted to £490 per annum. The Harbour Master received £200, and those who were at the smaller ports were paid from £26 to £70 per year. There was a Collector of Customs, a lauding waitev and warehouse keeper — two persons to do all the work of the Customs Department in the province. There were also a Commissioner of Crown Lands, Postmaster, and a Militia staff, connected with the General Government. The Provincial Survey Office cost £335, and the Provincial Government out of their revenue in 1871 set aside £1315 for roads, and £175 for repairs of public buildings. Towards education only £300 was voted, but the Education Board had reserves leased which brought in a revenue, and enabled it to subsidise schools in country places. Having finished off with the Provincial Government, it is only right we should refer to the local institutions in the place. The Town Board of New Plymouth consisted of nine members, who were elected annually. The town was then rated twopence in the £ on the assessed value, which brought in about £400 per annum (the rate now is 2s 9d in the £). The secretary and collector received £75. There were twenty-three Road Boards; each had three commissioners an.l two auditors. The rates ran from twopence to as much as one shilling per acre, and the money raised amounted on the whole to about £1300. The commissioners of each Board managed the business for the particular district, and the rates in many instances were worked out. The Native Department had its Commissioner, who was also Re-ident Magistrate; its assessors, its police, &c, &c. The cost was about £1500 a year. For a small town New Plymouth was not so badly off for public buildings. The Taranaki Institute, the Odd Fellows' Hall (since burnt down), and Freemasons' Hall (now Salvation Army barracks) would not disgrace a town of more pretension; but the Superintendent's Office, tlie Treasury, the Survey Office, the Stamp Office, &c, i were a disgrace to the place, being simply some old weatherboard cottages on Mount Eliot. The town has always been a straggling one, the houses having been built when there was a large population, consisting (besides the usual inhabitants) of four or five regiments of soldiers. Houses had to be obtained for the officers and others when the soldiers were sent to Taranaki during the war, so buildings sprung up in all directions. After the exodus o£ the troops the houses remained empty, and so got dilapidated. Houses that at one time let at £1 5s per week were in 1871 rented for the odd ss; and 3s to 2s 6d was a common rent for small houses. Xn the town in 1871 there were eight public houses, about three only of which could be called hotels. The accommodation in them was not what might be termed first-class; but, with the exception of commercial travellers, there were few to patronise them. There were six butchers to supply the community with meat, four bakers, four drapers, seven or eight general stores, three doctors to look after the health of the inhabitants, half a dozen or so of schools, two newspapers and printing offices, four solicitors, threo or four merchants, one tobacconist, two saddlers, three tailors, half a dozen shoemakers, two auctioneers, two ironmongers, two boarding houses, two nurserymen, two flour mills, a very fair foundry and an engineer, and numerous other businesses of smaller kinds. With regard to the amusements of the place, they were not numerous, nor of a very exciting nature — reading, gardening, and talking politics. The people were great politicians in those days, and a large number, for the size of the place, actually subscribed to and read the Hansard through every session. There was a Philharmonic Society, which occupied the musical portion of the community, but the more agreeable amusement w s to be found in the social intercourse that was carried on at the time. Little parties of friends met together, music, v rubber at whist, supper, and homo. No formality — everything resembled Eugland years ago, before railways ha I come into vogue. Then, in sutntn r there were picnic parties. Who will not say that an exhilarating ride with a number of joyous girls to the place of meeting in some picturesque spot and the happy time spent during the day, was more enjoyable than wh it was to be encountered in fast life to be found in cities? True hospitality was to bo found from the settler in those days in Taranaki. Let a stranger visit a friend, and he was treated in the same hospitable manner that was a common practice in the colonies before the goldfields were discovered, but

which ceases to exist in most places at the present day. The place might then have been many years behind the age — it might have been considered " slow" — it might have been considered dull — but if a person wished a fine climate, homely, domestic pleasures, and an easy and quiet life, he could not have fixed upon a better spot to live in than Taranaki. Amongst the foremost of those who seemed to take a pleasure in entertaining visitors in tho early days were the late Mr and Mrs Sharland, and there are many still living who have very pleasant recollections of the hospitable welcome they received at "Bonithon " during the sixties, and the very happy time they spent in Taranaki through the instrumentality of their generous host and hostess. Mr Sharland arrived with his family at New Plymouth in 1848, coming from Cornwall, and commenced his profession as chemist in Devonstreet, but afterwards carried on the business of a general merchant. About 1869, owing to the continued unsettled state of the district, he removed to Auckland, where he started again as a chemist. Mr Sharland was not long at his old profession before his genius and business capacity enabled him to extend his connection, not only in Auckland but throughout New Zealand; and specialties in patent medicines, perfumery, &c, bearing his name soon became as "familiar as household words." He then started a wholesale branch of the same business in Auckland, which soon assumed such a

magnitude that he had to take into partnership two of his sons, aswellashis son-in-law, Mr Churton. That business continu d to progress, and is now as well-known in England and other parts of the world as concerns that had been established many years before it. The late Mr Sharland was a fair representative of a generation now fast passing away — kind, courteous, and affable; he had a pleasant word for everyone, and when he died was much missed by all who were acquainted with him. FIFTEEN YEARS' PROGRESS. It could hardly be expected that after ten years' war with the pakeha the natives would sett'e down peacefully all at once. However, on Sir Donald McLean taking the portfolio of Native Minister, he introduced his " peace policy" amongst the natives, which evidently had a telling effect on the Maoris in the Taranaki district. By 1873 the natives had become more sociable with the Europeans. The influence the old fighting chiefs formerly had over their tribes was weakened, owing to the heavy losses the Maoris had sustained during the war; and the young men seeing that the friendly natives, who had intercourse with the Europeans, were better dressed, and had more money at their command, wore not long in making up to the pakeha. Even at Parihaka, where To Whiti ieigaed in seclusion, and where it was not considered safe for

a pakeha to go, a feeling of independence was also beginning to show itself. The first step of the Fox-Vogel-McLean Government to remove the isolated position of Taranaki was to subsidise that pioneer of civilisation — "Cobb's Coach "—" — to run twice a week between Wanganui and New Plymouth by way of Opunake and Parihaka. The first coach started from Wanganui on Wednesday morning, Jan. 11th, 1871, at 6 o'clock, having as passengers Sir W. Fox (Premier), Mr Reimenschneider, Mr Young (of Wellington), Mr J. Hirst, Honi Fiharna, and an orderly. The contractors for this service were Messrs W. H.Shepard& Co. (the "Co." being Mr Young). The coach arrived at Patea at 2 o'clock the same day as it started, and at Hawera at 8 p.m., where it stopped for the night. There being no hotels, no inns, in fact, only a few houses, the passengers had to accept the hospitality of Mr Middlemas, a gentleman who has since sold out and left the district. On the following morning (Thursday, January 12th) another start was made at half- past 3 o'clock, and the Waiongong ro river — a distance of five miles — was reached by 4.30 o'clock. This was crossed after some difficulty, and Oeo reached by 8 o'clock, where a change of horses was made. At 12 15 p.m. the coach reached Umuroa, where another relay of horses was procured. They had then to go along the beach, for Te Whiti haJ refused permission for the mail coach to go through his territory. The mouth of the Warea river was

reached by 4.30 p.m.; Stony River crossed at 6 p.rn ; Oakura passed through at 8 o'clock; the coach arriving at New Plymouth at 9.15 p.m., where a large concourse o£ people had assembled to welcome the passengers. The Premier and the proprietors of the coach were banqueted, and there was great rejoicing. Sir Donald McLean's influence with the natives was very great, and after the " soreness of the war" had somewhat healed, he came to Taranaki and instituted a policy of road making through the district. First of all, Wi Kingi. the original cause of the disturbance at Waitara, gave in, and consented to visit Sir Donald in Now Plymouth, an event which was viewed with great satisfaction. The day fixed on was February 22nd, 1872, when about noon Major Parris met Wi Kingi on the bridge in tho centre of the town. A very interesting interview took place. Major Parris had a native mat thrown over his shoulders, and a handsome taiaha in his hand, and he welcomed the party according to Maori etiquette. He then joined with the crowd, and walked with them to the Native Office. The Maoris having partaken of some refreshment, had an interview with Sir Donald McLean, who in a quiet manner, yet with a degree of authority and command, as one who was graciously overlooking their past faults, welcomed Wi Kingi and his followers " from tho forest to the sea shore,"

and asked them " to come and tread the paths traversed by the footsteps of their ancestors, and to come over the ground where the dead had fallen, that revenge for the past might be stamped out." This was an allusion to a Maori custom of ratifying peace. Wi Kingi was not very communicative, but merely said " that the natives did not wish to remain at enmity with the Europeans any longer, and were as willing as the pakehas were to let bygones be bygones." Negotiations were at once set on foot by Major Pairis to secure from the natives some land for the Government ; and although Wi Kingi would not acknowledge that he had changed his opinion with regard to the selling of the land, he offered no violent opposition to the other chiefs disposing of it. Accordingly the natives offered, through Major Parris, to the Government the Kopua Block, consisting of about 3000 acres; then followed the Waitara-Taramouka Block, 12,800 acres ; and the Huiroa Block, 43,000 acres. The Moa Block, of 32,830 acres, was the next land purchased from the natives ; and shortly afterwards the Waipuku Block, 7,000 acres, and Waipuku- Patea Block, 20,700 acres, bounded on the south by the Patea River, became Crown lands. Altogether, between 1872 and 1874, the Provincial Council became possessed of 379,470 acres of land for settlement. It then became necessary to make a road through the land, which was started early in 1873.

■ The settlements of Hawora and Patea at that time were only in their infancy. ! In 1874 Hawera could boast of two hotels, a few stores (of which Mr Davidson's was one), a branch of the Bank of New South Wales, a post-office, and telegraph station. The most prominent object in those days was a blockhouse, which stood on a hill, and commanded a view of the whole settlement. The site on which the town is built is very level ; and therefore the cutting down tho only eminencein the place was cer tainly not a wise act of the municipal authorities. The site of the town was originally set apart as a military settlement, but the allotments, which were of some size, have since been cut up into quarter-acre sections, and even smaller. Patea (or Carlyle, as the General Government has chosen to name the place) was then a town of some pretensions, owing to the military occupying the spot some time previously. In 1874 there were four hotels, a large number of stores, a Courthouse, telegraph station, and Post-office. There were also branches of the Bank of New Zealand and Bank of New South Wales; and four chutch.es or chapels. The Patea River runs through the town, and a mile on the south side of it was the boundary which divided Taranaki from the Wellington Province. When the " Public Works policy " was initiated by the Fox-Vogel Government, it was decided by Parliament that the rail

ways should be started simultaneously from each of the chief centres. New Plymouth being one of them, the first section of the line in Taranaki was provided for, as well as those in the the other provinces. It was at first intended to have carried the railway round the coast, on to Wanganui and Wellington, but Mr T. Kelly, who was then the member for New Plymouth, seeing that the line must go eventually at the back of the mountain, got the termini fixed at New Plymouth and Waitara. The first sod of this section of railway was turned at New Plymouth by Mrs Henderson (now tho wife of Mr W. F. Downes, manager of the Bank of New South Wales, Wanganui) on August 21st, 1873, and the occasion was one for a grand domonst' ation. The length of the line between New Plymouth and Waitara was eleven milep. Messrs Brogden & Sons were the contractors, Mr Darnell the Resident Engineer, the line being surveyed by Mr C. W. Hursthouse With the acquisition of land it became necessary that the place should have population, and as an " immigration scheme " formed part of the " Public Works Policy" of the General Government, the Superintendent and the members representing the district, demanded a share of the immigrants coming into the colony. The Provincial Council, in June, 1874, also sent Mr and Mrs W. M. Burton to England to select suitable persons for this province, a mission which was very successfully carried out by them.

In the meantime tho land acquired was> being surveyed, the construction of the railway in progress, and same immigrants were on their way to New Plymouth. On Friday, January 25th, 1875. two events happened which may be said to be the actual starting point of Taranaki's progress. On that day a party of gentlemen, members of the Provincial Council, were invited by the Executive to partake of a lunch al fresco on the site of the new township in the Moa Block, in order to see the newly acquired district and to bestow a suitable name on the township. The party consisted of Messrs Standish, Kelly, Upjohn, Andrews, D. Callaghan, Syme, Peacock, P. Elliot, McGuire, and Hately. His Honor tho Superintendent, Mr F. A. Carrington, could not join the party, for the ship Avalanche, with a number of immigrants on board, having arrived on that day, hW presence in New Plymouth was necessary. Tho township was named Inglewood, and shortly afterwards sections of it and the land surrounding were sold by auction, when settlers at once began to clear the bush, and to convert the Moa Block into a thriving district. In the mean while the railway between New Plymouth and Waitara was completed, and was formally opened for traffic on Tuesday, October 14th, 1875. Miss Carrington christened the first engine that ran on the line, and the Deputy Superintendent (Mr Standish) declared the

railway open for traffic. In the evening a ball was given in honor of the event, and a new era in the history of the settlement was commenced. The railway was then proceeded with from the junction at Sentry Hill to Inglewood, which was opened on August 29th, 1877. The sections of the town of Stratford -on- Pa tea were offered for sale on June 11th, 1877, and the milway was completed to that spot, and opened t"> the public on Wednesday, December 17th, 1879. The line continued to be constructed, and on August Ist, 1881, it was opened as far as Hawera ; and a large portion of the land along the h'ne, which ten years previously had been in heavy bush, was by that time cleared, and a number of comfortable homesteads established. The railway from Wanganui had been completed by this time as far as Patea; when a spurt was put on to connect the two ends of the line; but this was not accomplished till March 23rd. 1885.

Ever since New Plymouth had been a settlement an endeavor had been made by the inhabitants to obtain some marine protection in the shape of a breakwater in front of the town of New Plymouth. Sir George Grey, Dr Featherston, Sir E. W. Stafford, Mr Balfour, and many others ■were in favor of making a harbour of refuge here by means of prison labour. jVIr F. A. Carrington, when Superintendent

of the Province, was most diligent in his exertions to get a harbour for the place; and, to obtain means wherewith to build it, he moved in the matter in the General Assembly, in 1874, and got an Act passed givingthe Provincial Council power to set aside a fourth of the land revenue of the Province of Taranaki for harbour purposes. The Provincial Council then passed an Ordinance legalising the land endowment, and also created a Harbour Board, to which it gave power to raise £350,000 to build a breakwater.

It was during the session of 1875 that the question of a Central Prison in New Plymouth was renewed in the House of Representatives, and the Hon. C. Bo wen, ■who was Minister of Justice, took great interest in the matter, and got the House to vote £10,000 for the purchase of a site, and the er ction of the necessary buildings at Moturoa. Early in 1876 the Government entered into communication with the Harbour Board respecting the matter, and on April 26th the Hon. 0. Bowen had an interview with the members. Alter the interview with Mr Bowen had terminated, the Harbonr Board met, when the proposals of the Government were considered, an d, with the exception of Mr Standish, the whole of the members approved of them. The Colonial Government, having received the Board's resolutions agreeing to their proposals, at once prepared to carry them out. The land for the prison site was purchased, and tenders called for the erection of the buildings. The Colonial Engineers, Messrs Carruthers and Blackett, selected the present site, and Mr Jones, marine surveyor, made a perfect survey of a large area of water. Affairs were in this position when the Provinces were abolished, and the Government in duty bound should have carried out their agreement with the Province in taking over its liabilities. The House met, however, and the whole affair was allowed to be ,ibandoned, and the Harbour Board left in the position of having to carry out a design suitable only for prison labor to work on, or to abandon tie project. The House, for shame's sake, had to assist the Board to raise the money to build the harbour, but restricted the amount to £200,000. The first stone of the breakwater was laid with great ceremony by Mr F. A. Carrington on February 7th, 1881, and since then, under the superintendence of Mr George Rhind, C.E., late of Aberdeen and Arbroath, the work has been carried to its present state of completion in a most satisfactory manner. The Government since taking over the Provinces has lessened the land revenue of the district given for harbour purposes, by alteiingtlie land laws, and thus the endowments given to the Board to meet the interest ou the loan have been gradually confiscated by Parliament, and the settlers have to pay a ate which there would have been no need

to do, had the Government not broken faith in the first instance with the Harbour Board. In 1876 the Provinces in New Zealand were abolished, and a new system of Government brought into force. When the agitation for this abolition was taking place, the following epigram was written, which somewhat amusingly described the position of New Zealand at the time :—: — Does John ever look to the state of his till, With eight little Senates to run up the bill ? Does John ever think that the work might be done By eight little Senates rolled into one ? Eight little Parliaments, sitting in State — Eight little Speakeis, and Ministers eight — All sit to snow they need never have sat ; And the countiy grows lean, as officials grow fat. The new form of Government consisted of Municipalities, County Councils, Road Boards, and Boards or Committees for every other matter that required attending to— hence we have Land Boards, Education Boards, Hospital and Charitable AM Boards, Harbour Boards, Licensing Committees, School Committees, &o. If we

had too much Government when the Provinces existed, it has been in no way lessened since the Provinces have been abolished.

The pop ilation beginning to increase as fast as tl.e land was acquired and sold, it was found necessary to procure for settlement that disputed district, the Waimate Plains, which had been confiscated in 1863, but which the natives refused to surrender. The House of representatives accordingly created in 1879 a Royal Commission, of which Sir W. Fox waa appointed Chairrcan This Commission surrendered to the natives a large area of land ; the rest the Government sold by auction, and it is now occupied by Euro peana. Te Whiti, who had allowed Parihaka to become a sort of refuge for all the dissatisfied and rebellious Maoris in New Zealand, would pot acknowledge the Commissioners' decision. He had influence enough to prevent his followers from recommencing hostilities, but he had to

humour them. Consequently he set them at work ploughing up the settlers' land. Repeated attempts to reason with Te Whiti having failed, Mr Bryce, the Native and Defence Minister at the time, mustered all the Volunteers in the colony at Parihaka, and arrested the Maori prophet and Tohu, and compelled all the natives not belonging to that part of the country to return to their homes. After an absence of about twelve months the two chiefs were allowed to return to Parihaka, and since then there has been little or no trouble with the natives throughout the district.

We have, in our short History of Taranaki, tried to avoid statistics, because for

the general reader they are uninteresting, but to show the progress the settlement has made during the last fifteen years, nothing can be so cone usive as the following figures :—: — 1874. 1890. Population 5,465 19,757 Land under cultivation 50,071 301,078 Live stock of every description 75,282 436,190 That we may not be accused of drawing too bright a picture of this district, we make the following quotation from a book by Mr E. W. Payton, recently published in London, entitled " Round about New Zealand." The place has not much changed since the book was written, and what is stated by Mr Paj'ton can be relied on. He writes : — " From Manukau Heads to Taranaki wo had a very pleasant run in spite of a rather heavy swell, and came to an anchor early the following morning. Here the Rotorua rides at anchor in an unusually calm sea for Taranaki. Ti ere is no harbour— no pretence of one, but an open roadstead into which the long lines of swell from the open Pacific seem ever to roll. When I first visited this port we were sent on shore in whale boats, constructed to with stand the severest bumping they frequently got on the beach. Now a long breakwater

has been built, and pa&sengers are landed on this from a small steam tug which plies backward and forward ; and on very calm days the steamer comes alongside the breakwater itself. We had just time to Ket a walk ashore and that was all, and before lunch time we were awiy again bound for Nelson."

In another part of his book he describes New Plymouth as follows :—": — " On one oE the most exposed parts of the West Coast of the North Island is situated the pretty town of Xew Plymouth. All the great bustling 'cities' of the colony have a most patronising way of trying to snub New Plymouth. " The dullest hole in the colon}*." " Nothing whatever to do there." " Half the population spend their livss in bed, becauseif they get up there is nothing to do." A kind Wellington friend was good enough to give me the above particulars before I had visited New Plymouth myself. I can't say I found his estimate of the place correct ; in fact I have a great

liking for this "slow old hole," and I am quite sure that many other towns have very considerable reason to be enviojs of it. It's one groat want is a good harbor ; but that the inhabitants have tried to remedy by building a massive breakwater, which has already been a great boon to the place. Instead of goingto the shore in whale boats, as was the usual thing until the breakwater was built, passengers are taken on board a steam tug, and landed at the breakwater where they find a tiain all ready to take them into the town ; and in fine weather the services of the tug ore dispensed with, and the steamer itself taken alongside the breakwater. Not very

long ago, too, the approach by land from Wnnganui was not very convenient, as the railway was not completed ; passengers h.ul to get out of the train at Manutahi, and drive a dozen miles or so to Hawera where they picked up the railway again. All this, however, is done away with now, and the railway runs from Wanganui through to New Plymouth; and, altogether, I think New Plymouth is a town that will before long leave some of the others that are accustomed to allude to it us a " slow old hole" far behind. There is an enormous extent of rich land in the neighborhood of the town, which is as yet covered with dense bush, but when cleared will help to make Taranaki one of the most important pastoral districts in the colony. At the present time I believe there is a great deal more land cleared, and greater numbers of stock on the land than anyone living outside tho province has any idea. New Plymouth is a quiet, unassuming place, and has not done so much to attract immigrants and settlers by exaggerated reports as some districts ; but it seems to me a very good sign that the settlers are perfectly contented with their choice of a country, and rarely evince any disposition to leave it. The town is built close down to the sea, and almost on those wonderful bluck sands, which contain in some cases as much aa 75 per cent, of iron. It is a

bright, homely-looking place, with good gardens and shelter trees everywhere. The houses arc almost all of wood, and being all painted a very light colour give the town a vivacious appearance when seen through the luxuriant foliage which abounds round almost every house. Away at the b.ick of the town an enormous extent of bush is to be seen, spreading away up the slope of Egmont, the mighty mountain that rules over these parts. Egmont itself is a curiously regular cone, and in fine weather ran be seen from immense distances. Egmont is a one-peaked mountain with an enormous anii almost circular base, the circumference of which is about sixty miles There is a low range of hills jutting out seaward on the western side, but with this exception the cone is a regular cone. I have seen Egmont from every side, and whichever way it is viewed it is a wonderfully imposing mountain ; but 1 think one gets a truer idea of its proportions when travelling on the eastern side where the railway runs within four or five miles of it.

After describing his visit to Parihaka and to Wnitara, Urenui and the Mokau, Mr Payton goes on to say, " Waitara, which is situated not far from the mouth of the river of that name, is a bright little township. It seems a great pity that the Railway line cannot be continued beyond Xew Plymouth and Waitara to join the Waikato line, and so connect Auckland, the largest city in the colony, not only with the South, but also with Taranaki and the magnificent land in the east and north of it. As the railway is planned, and in fact being carried out, there wi 1 be no connection at all between Taranaki and Auckland without first coming down to Marton and then going over a hundred miles north again through Wanganni and Hawera. The difficulties can scarcely be greater than they are by taking the line through the King Country, and the distance from Tc Kuiti (to which place the northern line is now open) (o Marton, is double the distance from Te Kuiti to Waitara. It is to be hoped at least that a junction will be speedily effected by a branch Ine from Waitara tD Tumnarunui, or some other suitable place, to obviate the necessity of travelling from Auckland to New Plymouth, via Marton and Wellington."

The History of Taranaki to be found in the preceding pages o£ this paper had to be condensed, but I have endeavoured in the space at my command to record all the principal events which have happened during the past fifty years, and to show how the place lias progressed, notwithstanding the many drawbacks the settlers have had to contend, and the obstacles which have continually stood in their way. W. H. J. Seffeun.