BEAUTIFUL ITALY. THE BATING HOUSES.

Taranaki Herald, Volume XXXVII, Issue 8246, 20 August 1888, Page 2

BEAUTIFUL ITALY. THE BATING HOUSES.

Tt was six o'clock in the evening, and the first aad paramount impulse was to fiai an eating: house. We pnssed plenty of bakers' shops and refreshment shops or stall b, all clean and inviting as to food and seating accommodation and servers, bnt there won a lack of the appetising savoriness indicative of roast beef or of the frying pan. In vain we tried up and down this one sided street. I wanted to try the alley ways where a throng of working; men of all classes were passing up and down. My friends evidently thought I was more bent on exploration than hungry for food. They would keep to the wide, the respectable fitreots. My advice wts to strike a scent and run it down to tb» cookshop from whence it emanated. Alas ! there were few scents. Never was in a sweeter city. Hotels and eating houses were all alike lacking tin requisite flavor. At Jaßt an indication, with people inside in front of smoking eatables. No English epoke by the waiters. Some places have a painted notice " English spoke." I peered around. "Here you are, boys — good soup. There should be Kood roast after that." We wer» served, and I was exactly suited. No meat, not enough gravy or «oup or flavor, and too much bread to suit my friends. Instead of coffee or tea, wine was served. Two waiters were at hand trying to understand our requirements. BDTTBB BOPPLY LIMITED. We only required butter to complete a fair set out, and this I got a sample of after sundry imaginary travels of the knife to an imaginary butter dibh. and an imitation spread with the knife on the bread 1 had in hand. Soon as I saw the small sample I reaohed out for it, and beamed iiy nicest. The waiter, however, vanished, but shortly returned with what had to serve the lot. The butter was excellent, different, but very much bettor than most of the best butters made in Taranaki. Wo were now doing very well indeed, but it was amusing to see the look, extended hands, attitude, aad ehrog of the waiter as we passed the plate for more butter, after getting an additional supply of bread. The total cost was four lines, toothpicks provided, or about one shilling each, this including two large tumblers each of good wine. LOOKING FCB BEDS. To an enquiry for bedß we gathered the post to be the same, or, say, a shilling each in English money. This was only a wine and eatin? house, and closed earlier than we were likely to turn up for, bed, so we indicated that we would go elsewhere. Atter wandering about till half-past eleven, only then beginning to look out for quarters for the night, and when passing through the large open space in front of the railway station, at that time as light as day, through a large high up electric light, and with small electric lights or lamps all round the square, who should accoßt ns but the waiter who had chiefly attended to our wants at the eating house. He motioned as for sleep. We all motioned assent. Close by, in ons, of the alloywpys, but in fact a very respectable street, he escorted us up three flights of stone steps, lighting our way only by the aid of wax vestas. He rang, and simultaneously there appeared a man at one door, and a woman at another. Qood clean, spring mattrass beds were provi ed, two beds to each room, at a cost of one shilling each. Neither of the disturbed persons were in the least put out, but quite readily and agreeably taking instructions from the waiter, whom we all voted a perfect podiend. Names and ages of each had to be taken in writing before the landlord dare assent to our occupying his premises. My friends were inclined to object, but T sai i " Give your history if required, and be think ul if he only wants a personal description. We are in a foreign country whero a body can hardly sneeza without some government official or other requiring the time and siz3 of it." EXPLORING THE CITY. After our pood, though now kind of ferd, bums still broad daylight, we passed through the city archway to escape the city. Bij-ht away I thought I was in luck, for snro enough these open window places, divided into sections along the face of the building', along the line of covered footway, could be no other than the post office. I pitied the officials compelled to work to so late an hour, yet all the same wns delighted at the eh ince of taking full advantage. This proved to be the booking department of the railway. This was a handsome square, "Piazza delP Acquaverde," on the flat of whiob, opposite the archway, was a large, lofty, and elaborate marble statue of "Cbristofob Colombo, La Patria," surrounding whioh was a delightfully shady greenery, with miniature garden plots. Some bushes with fine dark red roses in- fall bloom, and other English looking flowers and mosses, ran my thoughts to New Plymouth, where these rosss are plentiful, but the majority of plants and dwarf trees proved strangers. There was plenty of seating all around the statue, and miniature bowers in among the foliage. The seatfl were fully occupied by respectable looking folks of both sexes, all of whom seemed to be quietly enjoying themselves, and with a genial pleasantry all around, greatly in contrast to tho starchy superciliousness with whioh a similar number would group themselves in the colonies, and almost ill-temperedly indicate one to the other, " Get out of this and make room for your betters." A plentiful triokliog of water kept the whole delightfully 0001. THE RAILWAY TERMINUS. Adjoining the booking windows of tho railway iB a largo hotel, the famishing of which can be best ind totted by the word Bumptuous. Un the opposite side of the Bquuro wns another large hotel, with srmller refreshment places. Here again, but apparently specially connected with the hotel, or liae of refrenhment placen, was a trinn_!ulai patch of drawf shade trees, with a inoro abundant supply of seating, wiili all the ground not so occupied kept nicely even for promenading. The ground rose abruptly behind the flat plot occupied by the statue and its cosy surrounding*, and on these nteep rising streets abovu handsome buildings rose to what appeared un alarming hoi^ht. This, together with the tall buildings on the' other^ faces of the square, or circle, left but a limited view of sky. I was for rising Ihe steep streets in order to get n viow of the harbor while the good light lasted. My friends preferred the flat, so we struck for the main thorough;nro, leavinc, not the sumptuous, but tho other hotel on the right, and yet another large hotel on a corner lot on the left. Thii was the atruiiihtcat, und, 1 should say, one of the best business streets nt Us commencement from the railway square, running on in lliu tsameohnructer to other similar Btreete, anri to junctions of Btreete, vsitli the inevitable open space. All the otreeta uud open pluces were paved, and tlw majority, if not indeed all thoßo buildiagß, wtro stone or stonu-facud. THE TRAMWAY. A double liuo of Irr away, with very narrow space as footpath, leaves no room for any third vehioie, and tbe only oh»ace

of pasßine or pashms; ahead is over the unoocupied line of tramway. When a driver wants to push ahead of a slow moving tram or other vehioie he has often to await patiently for a slant to pass in order to avoid collision with trams or vehicles coming in the opposite direction. There ouc;ht to be plenty of accidents, but such is tho good tempered consideratenees shown on every hand, a giving way to eait oocanione, that I question if there are many collisions. Pedestrians at the sides jog alonsj without jar, and with easy motion yet fair speed. THE BHOPS AND STORKS. The shops, very many only narrow frontages, were veritable show pluces as rpjffirdg display, neatness, taste, and cleanliness and good order. The shopkeepers were in exact keeping, so pleasantly unobtrusive, yttt desirous to suit customers. The artistio effeot of window displays, and indeed the whole contents of both larpe and small Bbops, it it did not beeet envy in the mind of a Britisher or Colonial, would fill him with admiration and desire to emulate. If "Skimpole" were let loose in such a pity he would scarcely require money. The whole surroundings would be a continual feast. Businesses oach carry their distinctive features. Provision shops, embraoinf? cheesa, bacon, hams, butter, lard, spiced meats, polonies, and such ; like, aad varieties now to me, are sot out with marvellous attractiveness. The drapers and the clothiers, little as my taste runs in thesa lines, fetched both myself and friendß upstanding. The best lolly shops are worth a feu to view, though, of the got-up say lolly cakes, phtos, pyraroHalH, and variety groups I should be loth to p&rtnko. As n. show Al ; bnt I fear Mr. Stomich would require very much Mr. Doctor, and Mi. Doctor is expensive. GAS LIGHTING) BRIO ADS. About dusk we pissed a oompany, at their quarters, of in n, in a blue dungaree uniform and caps with brisn letteringß, Etch mau wai provided with a long yet strong taper stick, with come tinware fittinc: at the top. Thin was the gits lamp lit^htin^ brigade mustnria^. Shortly aftfr we saw them hnrrjjn^ off ia group* ot fours and sixes, gradually thinning out as the outer circle was reached. There must have been fnlly a hundred as we passed the Giis Offices. THE SIDE BTREET3. A considerable tramp was indulged in before any of the alley wa} a were traversed. Finally a trial trip was mude. These narrow streets wrro the principal portions of the city, embracing every degree and calling, and evrrj dims of this genial, well conditioned, nnd well clothod propln. Very few women were about excopt in company. I quite expected to be pestered with beggars. Only s-\w thrne to my knowledge, and only had expedience oC two. [To be continued."]