LURE OF THE WILD

Taranaki Daily News, 1 December 1934, Page 17 (Supplement)

LURE OF THE WILD

LAND OF GLOWING SKY STEWART ISLAND VISITED. MANIFOLD ATTRACTIONS, i - ' ’ (By E. E. Muir.) No. L Then away we go to an island fair That lies, in a Southern Sea. . —“The Gondoliers. To New Zealanders who wish to see the remoter parts of their own country, and to overseas visitors as. well, there are few places that offer more attractions than Stewart Island and greater facilities ‘ for the full enjoyment of them.'The smallest of the three islands known as New Zealand, the-picturesque Maori name for it' is “Rakiura, which means “The Land of the Glowing Sky.”’ Lying 22 miles to the south across Foveaux Strait, it is reached from the Bluff by the! steamer Tamatea, which, in the summer time, runs twice a week. There such enjoyments as tramping, .climbing, deer shooting, fishing, picnicking, yachting, boating, sea and sun-bathing, tennis and dancing may be indulged in to any' degree. The island has a lovely scenery all its own, and in its native flora-and fauna possesses attractions- of outstanding interest, while Virginian and Red deer abound and provide excellent shooting. All activities radiate from Oban, the picturesque township of about 300 people, at the head of Half Moon Bay, a glorious haven on the east coast. Fishing smacks, motor launches, yachts, and boats, all available for use, ride at anchor about the magnificent . harbour; and outside, about five miles off, lie the romantic mutton-bird islands, which are curiously “mummified” in form. ■ Apart from its mountains and beautiful forest Stewart Island has several other notable physical features. These are its magnificent coast-line, made up of bold Land picturesque cliffs and headlands, wooded down to the waters edge, : and offset. by innumerable shoals of jagged rocks, islets, and islands, which stand close in to the shore and far out to sea; two huge indentations on . the east coast, Paterson Inlet and Port Pegasus, which jut in from the sea, tBe former running east and west and penetrating half-way into the island, while the latter runs almost north and south and parallel with the coast; and last, but not least, the large plain, 12 miles long by from two to six miles wide, which stretches across the centre of the island from the head of Paterson Inlet to the sandhills of Mason’s Bay on the west coast. MAGNIFICENT PATERSON INLET. The chief attraction, to which all visitors naturally turn, is Paterson fillet, that wonderful sheet of. sparkling blue, silver, and green waters, which is large and deep enough to accommodate all the navies of the world. Sixteen miles' long by from two to six miles wide, Paterson Inlet is studded with enchanting bush-covered islands, and along its whole coastline, from mountain tops to water’s edge, - presents a vast array of forested cliffs and slopes, and, here and there, the loveliest little coves with glorious beaches of gold and silver sands. Here, everywhere around, the rata grows in profusion, and when it is seen in January, particularly in a good year, the shores of Paterson Inlet are decorated with masses of green and scarlet glory which few- places can rival. CLIMATE AND PHYSICAL FEATURES Most people who have not been there imagine that Stewart Island, being so far south, must be bleak and cold, and also that it is quite a small place. Both are entirely mistaken impressions. Warmed by tropical currents, it possesses a surprisingly mild climate, so much so, indeed, that it is really hot there in summer, while in winter frosts are so infrequent as to be rare and snow seldom lies around. Evidence of this is seen in the luxuriant vegetation, largely sub-tropical, which flourishes all over the island, and in the nikau palms and giant Californian redwoods, which have been planted on Ulva Island in Paterson Inlet, and grow there as though in their native element. In actual size Stewart Island is 41 miles long by 20 miles wide, and contains 665 square miles of territory, most of it mountainous and almost wholly covered in bush. The mountains, it is true, are not z of any great height, averaging only from 1000 to 3200 ft., but there are many peaks and. ranges, nevertheless, that offer quite good excursions for climbers. The most notable of these are Mt. Anglem (3200 ft the highest peak, which, densely wooded. Is situated at the northern end of the island; the fantastic Ruggedy Range (about 1500 to 2000 ft) in the northwest, which is surmounted by a series of weird peaks of hard, polished granite with formidable precipices that challenge the skill of the mountaineer; Mt. Rakiahua (2300 ft in the centre of the island; and “Gog,” “’Magog,” and “The Highlandman,” high pinnacles of glittering granite, which, defying all the disintegrating elements of time, dominate the neighbourhood of j Port Pegasus at the southern end of “Rakiura.” From Observation Rock, the highest point on the forested hills about Half Moon Bay, one is presented with an astonishingly fine panorama of this beautiful inlet, which would be far-famed were it better known. Literally at one’s feet one looks down into the sylvan depths of the forest below, into the blue and green havens of Golden Bay and Thule, plentifully studded with handsome islands, and sheltered by bold, jutting headlands adorned by the finest forest. Further out stretches the noble expanse of the inlet, flanked by bold promontories on the right and numerous islands on the left, and backed in the distance by rugged mountain ranges densely clad in bush. Seen

under the wonderful moving pageantry of the clouds, in varying lights and shades, at dawn and sunset glow, this superb view of Paterson Inlet is one ,of which the visitor never tires, and which he carries away with him in treasured memory. Only a few minutes’ walk across from Half Moon Bay are Golden Bay and Thule, two pleasant little coves in Paterson Inlet from which all excursionists in this lovely region make their trips, finding a never-fajling variety of fascinating spots to which to go. The principal of these are the whaling base at Kaipipi, The Neck (the site of the original Maori settlement), Moa Island, Ringaringa Point, Deep Bay, and the three arms of the inlet—the Caerhowel or South-West Arm (five miles long), Glory Harbour or South-West Bay, and the North Arm. All the islands in Paterson Inlet are scenic reserves, these including Ulva Island, and Faith, Hope, and Charity, the three small islands which form such attractive features at Golden Bay and Thule. GLORIES OF ULVA ISLAND. Of the lot the most fascinating is Ulva Island, the manifold delights of which it is . possible for everyone to enjoy. Three miles long by a mile wide, it is low lying, comparatively flat in fact, and is wholly covered by luxuriant forest, and in the number and variety of its birds, its. wealth of trees, fems, and mosses, indented coastline, and sheltered coves and beaches, provides sources of never-failing interest. Excellent tracks, negotiable by anyone, have been cut through the forest, which otherwise is wholly unspoilt, and, with the golden sunlight striking down in shafts through the branches, with constant changes in lights a.id shades provided by drifting clouds, it furnishes some of the most lovely scenic studies to be found anywhere in New Zealand. The forest on Ulva is exceedingly rich in the number and variety of its orchids, which grow in every conceivable place, and fill the air with a delicate fragrance which is delightful. Of Ulva’s beaches the finest is the dreamlike Sydney Cove, facing the islandstudded entrance to the inlet. Backed by a superb forest and about a quarter of a mile long, it is a bathers’ paradise*, possessing a beautiful outlook, shallow, warm waters, and a wide strip of golden sand upon which the wavelets lazily spend themselves as though half asleep. Here one may bathe, swim and lie about all day in the suit to the accompaniment of the liquid notes of tuis and bellbirds and grey warblers, New Zealand’s most glorious song-birds, which are very numerous on Ulva. But the bathers must be careful where they leave their clothes, as there are so many mischievous wekas running about, busily seeking whatever they can find, and running off with their discoveries in triumph. TRAMPING, FISHING, SHOOTING. About Half Moon Bay there are numerous walks, all along well-formed roads and tracks, which offer an infinite variety of charming bush and rugged coastal scenery. These extend in all directions; round the coast and inland for as much as eight miles, and, in the absence of dust and motor-cars, are sources of neverfailing delight to picnickers and Stampers. Those who are fond of fishing and deer shooting and prefer either the sea or the wilderness to civilisation, at any rate for a spell, of course, to go further afield. There fishing is fishing. From Half Moon Bay and Pegasus Inlet, the centres of the Stewart Island fishing industry, it is easy to arrange to go out for a day’s fishing on any of the launches, or for two or three days if so desired. All fishing there is done by hook and line, and so plentiful are the blue cod that catches of 14001 b in one day with three men fishing off one launch are stated to be quite common, while the record catch from this particular launch for one day has been as much as 18001 b of blue cod. The crayfish, too, are very plentiful, and provide endless fun, especially when hauling them up in baskets on a small rowing boat.

Out in the wilderness, almost at any time and anywhere about the vast uninhabited portion of the island, the Virginian and red deer are so numerous as to constitute an immediate menace to the native flora and fauna, and it is performing a service to shoot them. There is thus any amount of venison to be had within easy distance of the camps, and while trampers, wherever they go, provided they carry a rifle, need never fear of running out of supplies, sportsmen can be equally certain of obtaining as many good heads as they require LONG TRIPS INTO THE WILDS. The long-distance tramping is done from Paterson Inlet. The most popular is that to Mason’s Bay, over on the West Coast, where so much ambergris is found. For this one proceeds by launch from Golden Bay up to the head of Paterson Inlet, thence for six miles up the beau-, tiful Ohekia River, and from there by a good level, track for eleven miles to Traill’s camp on the banks of Duck Creek, which flows into Mason’s Bay. With this camp as headquarters one is able to proceed southwards to the Ernest Islands at the southern end of Mason’s Bay, and thence over the rugged forest-clad ranges to Doughboy Bay, and northwards from the camp over the sandhills and along the beach, and thence over the ranges to the weird Hellfire beaches, close to the fantastic Ruggedy Range, seven, ten and twelve miles beyond. These tramps for romantic interest and rugged coastal grandeur offer all that could be desired by any lover of the wilds. Another tramp that provides an equal lure in its remoteness, mystery, and rugged beauty is that from Paterson Inlet to Pegasus Inlet, which, however,, is only rarely done to-day. To accomplish this it is necessary to proceed by launch from Golden Bay to the head of the Caerhowel Arm, and then for four miles up the Rake’ahua River (the most beautiful river on the island) to the starting point of the track. From there, right in the middle of Stewart Island, the tramper is able to indulge in a delightful walk of 26 miles to Port Pegasus, crossing no less than four mountain ranges, fording num-

erous streams, and passing mostly through forest, varied by stretches of fascinating tablelands, weird gorges and fantastic granite cones. ASCENT OF MOUNT ANGLEM. Still another wholly satisfying expedition is the ascent of Mt. Anglem. For this one journeys by launch from Half Moon Bay to the landing place on the north-east coast, from where, in steadilyrising and heavily-forested slopes, Mt. Anglem rises, as it were, in one huge mass from the sea. The ascent up the track is intensely interesting, providing, as it does, at varying elevations all the varieties of vegetation that grow on Stewart Island, while the views from the top, three miles inland as the crow flies, are unrivalled, comprising magnificent panoramas of Foveaux Strait and of the south coast of the South Island and ot the whole of the northern half of Stewart Island—a jumbled mass of peaks, ranges and deep-forested ravines Io as far as Paterson Inlet and the mountains beyond. In short, Stewart Island is a spot where one can spend months going to different spots, and always seeing something fresh and beautiful and definitely interesting. From the Maori name of Rakiura, “The Land of the Glowing Sky,” visitors to Stewart Island, not unnaturally, expect to see this evidenced in frequent glorious sunsets. These, however are no more numerous or remarkable than those/seen in many other parts of New Zealand. The explanation given by long-establish-ed residents is that the Maori name really derives its origin from the pinkish or reddish tinge the island presents when approached from the sea. This is par-' ticularly noticeable when coming from Ruapuke, when Stewart Island generally wears a pinkish tinge.