FASHION NOTES

Taranaki Daily News, 10 February 1934, Page 19 (Supplement)

FASHION NOTES

FRILLED SKIRTS OR PLAIN? THE “VAGABOND” TOUCH. (From Our Own Correspondent.) London, Jan. 1. I mentioned recently that frilled frocks had made a triumphant return to fashion for the festive season. So popular have they proved for parties and dances, indeed, that one or two dressmakers are now putting the idea into practice for day dresses—the more “fussy” kind for afternoon occasions. But so far the notion has not received very enthusiastic support. Mainly, I suppose, on account of the difficulty of keeping frills crisp and fresh-looking when the frock comes in for a good dehl of hard wear, as most day dresses—and evening gowns also—do these days !

The day dress, then, remains neat and trim, though sometimes a pleated flounce or a shirred roll of the material appears at the hem.. And this, finishing a skirt that is cut to fit the figure and flare slightly towards the ankles, is excellent, giving a petal-like effect which is at once graceful and easy to carry off successfully. ■ AT THE NECKLINE. There is, perhaps, a little more decoration at the neckline than there was a few weeks ago. As, for instance, a pleated taffetas or satin fichu-collar to go on a plain silk or fine wool frock. Such a collar really belongs to a “set” which includes also double cuffs and a bow. On a mulberry-colour wool crepe model was a pleated set in taffetas of a slightly paler tone. And a second set, to be worn alternately, was in pinky-beige satin, a wonderfully, good contrast with the rich berry tint. Such a set, or two or three of them, could well be made by the amateur. It is merely a case of cutting two strips for the collar—one a little wider than the other—two for each cuff, and one for the bow. Strips for collar and cuffs are finely pleated for half their depth, stitched, then left to flute out, thus obtaining the correct shape to fit neckline and sleeves. The bow is not pleated, of course, and this, like collar and cuffs, can have picotedges or tiny rolled hems. THE ROLLED COLLAR. Another smart neck finish takes the form of a shirred and rolled collar band ending in plain wide ends which tie in a big floppy bow. The idea was carried out in dark satin ribbon for a lightcoloured dress—and I think the effect was better this way than a light finish of the kind on a dark gown would have been. This also is capable of being copied by the home dressmaker. Talking of necklines, there is another new and pretty one in which you may be interested I saw a princess day dress made to come close up to the throat, where it was finished with a triangle of patterned silk, tied loosely in front like a gipsy bandana. The dress was made of dull-surfaced black satin, and the kerchief was in printed crepe de chine of many colours, the latter, by the way, hiding the small buttons with which the bodice was fastened. AND THE HAT. One of the foremost milliners has introduced an extremely soft felt hat, very much of the vagabond type, except that the crown is somewhat shallower and the brim is slightly pulled down over one eye. It is a pleasant change after the plethora of tiny toques, pill-boxes, and berets which left half the head exposed. I believe we shall see the fashion taken up pretty generally within the next few weeks. By the way, another new hat is worn tilted well to the back of the head, leaving uncovered the whole of the forehead and a good deal of the hair in front. This when we had just grown used to the forward tilt! On a youthful wearer, however, the effect is good, the shape of the hat rather suggesting a small child’s sun-bonnet with the front of the brim turned back. One or two recent displays of tailored fashions have included some extremely smart little jumper suits in fine wool, a soft wool and silk mixture, and the wellliked Ottoman silk. They will have a vogue because they are so wearable and good to look at. Usually the skirt is cut 'straight from waist to knees, at which line groups of flat pleats are inset back and front to give complete freedom of movement. The jumper comes high to the throat, often has the Raglan shoulder-line or one which is reminiscent of a Norfolk jacket, is hip-length, and drawn in at the waist by a wide belt. Remorseless Revelations.

The triple mirror that has had such a protracted vogue in milady s dressingroom is now, presumably, to be voted a back number. In a West End establishment I have just been shown a dress-ing-table with mirrors that reflect the feminine face and figure from nine different angles. This is made possible by an ingenious arrangement of eight smaller mirrors round a central one. The effect is rather like that produced in the tailor’s cubicle; where the glass of fashion, gleaming from every wall, makes no secret of the mould of form, and disturbingly reveals all the weak spots in one’s sartorial armour and the contours beneath. She must be a very authentically beautiful or superlatively selfcomplacent dame who can contemplate her image, from nine different points of view,* without some twinges of regret.