POULTRY NOTES

Taranaki Daily News, 21 October 1933, Page 12 (Supplement)

POULTRY NOTES

ARTIFICIAL BROODERS. CARE AND ATTENTION NEEDED. (By Geo. H. Ambler.) Artificial brooders must be carefully watched to see that the lamp does not get too high, nor yet is blown out. Those rearing chickens in an artificially heated brooder should make themselves acquainted with its workings. It is useless expecting to rear chickens successfully if experience does not begin until the chickens are inside the brooder. It is better to leave this side of rearing alone unless you are prepared (1) to buy a reliable appliance; (2) master its ins and outs before hatching time, and devote reasonable care to its working. Most of the mishaps with brooders come under one or other of the following headings: The lamp goes out in the night, or smokes, or sets fire to the brooder. This is due to poor quality oil, neglect in trimming and filling, turning the flame too high, or a cheap and badly made machine. More often than not the latter is the cause of the trouble, as a good many chicken rearers seem to think that anything will do to rear chickens. Although I have not seen the familiar kerosene tin brought into use, I have seen scores of brooders made out of kerosene cases. One of the best methods of brooding (in my idea) is the use of the canopy “twin” brooders. These give the maximum amount of fresh air so necessary if chickens are to be reared successfully. Buying a brooder is just as important as buying an incubator. You must get the best; even if it costs a little more it will be cheaper in the end. | If your chickens do not appear lively, or their feathers seem too heavy and long for them to carry, there is something wrong. These symptoms may be due to overheating, not enough heat, bad ventilation, brooder not being kept clean enough, insufficient exercise, or improper feeding. The first and second may be avoided by experience by following the makers’ instructions, and by the intelligent use of the thermometer. The third can be remedied if the interioi’ smells unpleasant-

ly. REGARDING EXERCISE. Chickens must be kept in a constant state of activity—never wholly satisfied, and always on the look-out for more food. In order best to promote this desirable state of things it is advisable to litter at least one compartment of their house with chaff to a depth of not less than 2in. In this should be buried their day’s chick food. The latter must be of a reliable brand, such as Palmer’s. Feed little and often. It is really a simple matter to tell, after a brief experience, whether you are giving enough, too much, .or too little at a time. Under-fed chickens will naturally look a trifle pinched and peaky, and handling one ■here and there, just prior to feeding, will reveal what quantity of food there is still in the crop, which, by the way, should generally be not less than one-third full at such a time. Over-fed chicks are, of course, lazy, disinclined to emerge from the warm compartment, and leave some of their food until the next round. When such a case of things is noticed withhold one meal altogether and cut down rations accordingly thereafter. Fine grit should always be in front of the chicks, also granulated charcoal. The latter acts as a corrective. Cleanliness is another important item, but is purely a personal matter.

INDICATIONS OF SEX. In some cases sex in chickens is very difficult to discern, particularly in breeds such as Leghorns, Orpingtons and other breeds of all one colour. There are, however, in distinguishing the sex of chickens, special points which may be regarded as practically reliable when the chickens are from three days to a week old. These indications are more certain where the chickens are from the same breeding pen. The head is the first point to compare. In the pullets the head will be neater and narrower than in the cockerels, and will appear longer in comparison. In the cockerels the wattles will show out prominently, and the combs will be small and erect, while those of the pullets will be flat and lie close to the heads. The beak of the cockerels will be stronger, and the shank and wing bones will be coarser and heavier. As a general rule, when the chickens are from two to three weeks old, other indications are present. The pullets generally get their plumage at once all over the body, while that of the cockerels will come in patches, the wings and portion of the body being covered, while bare spots between the wings and tail will be noticeable. The tail feathering of the pullets generally grow earlier than in the cockerels. Close attention by the observant owner and a little experience will soon enable him to detect the sex of the chickens, and the indications mentioned should materially assist him. FEATHERING OF YOUNG STOCK. Good feathering is a sign of good health and vigour, and reflects satisfactory management. A chicken which is slow to feather and looks ragged and wretched when its brothers and sisters are well-clad may, therefore, be marked down as a bad doer that should be avoided when the time comes for breeding. The growth of feather commences as soon as a chicken is hatched, if not be-

fore, and goes on until the adult plumage is complete. At some periods there is more feather growth than at others, but it may be said that feath. r development is incessant, and there is, therefore, a constant drain upon the system, which can only be met by generous feeding on nourishing materials, so it will be understood that growing stock need to be fed well at all seasons of the year if they are to make good progress. As a general rule there are no distinct seasons for the development of plumage in growing fowls. It is impossible to say when one set of feathers is completed and when/, another commences. As a matter of fact, the growth of the biid necessitates constant production of new feathers.

A FEW HINTS. Be regular as the clock in the care of the chickens. Nothing short of the most intelligent and unvarying care will bring the best results. Mowings from the lawn should be thrown into the poultry run for the birds to pick over and eat what they require. While the grass is young and sweet this makes excellent green food. It should be remembered that laying hens require a variety of food. When they have free range in the summer they, of course, practically find it for themselves, but when they are confined it should be given to them daily.

ANSWER TO CORRESPONDENT. F. Walker, Stratford:—The coughing which some of your birds are troubled V with denotes that they are suffering from, some slight inflammation of the mucous membranes. Give nightly for a week or so two or three drops of spirits

of camphor in a teaspoonful of glycerine, and feed now and again on meal mixed with honey. Later op add an iron tpnic to the food or drinking water. This, I think will put them right. As regards carrier pigeons they are kept only for fancy and showing purposes, as they get too much wattle and cere, which prevents them being good racers.