IN THE GARDEN

Taranaki Daily News, 19 September 1931, Page 27 (Supplement)

IN THE GARDEN

WORK FOR THE WEEK. THE FLOWER GARDEN. Prune roses. Plant evergreen trees and shrubs. Hasten any planting of deciduous trees or shrubs. Sow hardy annuals in open ground. Sow asters outside. Plant delphiniums and perennial phlox. Sow lupins, larkspurs, poppies, esehseholtzia. Plant tender subjects, euch as acacia, eucalyptus, jacaranda, poinsettia, lucullia. Plant liliums. Prepare vacant ground for planting. Chrysanthemum cuttings as rooted /should be transplanted. Go- over the dahlia tubers and, where cuttings are required, stand in frames. • ■lf division will give enough increase cut apart so that each tuber has at leaot one bud attached. Continue to plant gladioli bulbs. . THE VEGETABLE GARDEN. Prepare .all vacant ground. Sow Bruscel sprouts and broccoli at once. Plant onions when ground is in condition for working. Make sueeessional sowings of lettuce and radish. Turnip, beet, cabbage, cauliflower seed can be - sown. Give lettuce good rich soil to encourage a quick growth. Make new plantations of rhubarb. Earth up potatoes as they advance in growth.' Plant potatoes to fill requirements. Sow more peas. Leave plenty of room between rowe, intercropping with some catch crop, such as lettuce. Break up the soil about peas, cabbage, cauliflower and onions. Draw up soil to the rows of peas. Hoe between seedling crops. Protect seed beds from birds and slugs. THE FRUIT GARDEN. Spray peach and nectarine trees for leaf curl. Take every advantage of fine weather for Spraying. Finish pruning. Collect and burn pruningB - Hasten any planting that is left. Citrus fruite can be planted now. Trees that wpre budded last summer can be headed back to just above the bud. Head back trees for grafting. Keep scions in cool soil to retard as much as possible. Manure the trees and clean the weeds from round the base. PHLOX DRUMMONDII. This is a well known and generally grown subject, and it may appear somewhat unnecessary to speak of such a well-known friend. This plant is indispensable in all gardens, but it is uot given the attention due to it; so well known is it that people seem to think that it will do without any care or attention. This is not so, and, as with all other plants, it repays any extra care that may be given it. It may be sown at almost any time throughout the year, and if sowings are made periodically it is possible to have a good show of bloom over the largest part of the year. Any sowings or planting done in the summer during the hot, dry season will certainly be the better -for attention to watering, but that it will do its best under bad circumstances is well known. Give the plants a well-dug soil which has had plenty of farm-yard manure or other vegetable matter added. Allow ample space between the plants —18in. is not too much. As an edging plant or in groups or beds it is splendid; if either is the better method, it certainly is when planted in large groups or beds. To. speak of strains or varieties is- unnecessary, because it is largely a' matter of personal opinion, but any packet of good need will give plants that will give a good show of colour. The period of flowering can be lengthened by keeping the plants clean of all old flowers and seed pods. It is also advisable to peg the growths down to the ground; this steadies them, and they do not blow about. and get. out of place as when left to their own resources. THE PARSNIP. The parsnip is of more value as an article of food tlian is commonly supposed. It contains an appreciable proportion of starch, thus resembling the potato. The actual food value is about three-fourths that of the potato. The modern parsnip is a cultivated form of the wild parsnip found growing wild in chalky soils in England. There are several cultivated forms, or types, of which the follow ; n~ -c eh ; ef- The Student, having a long root and slightly concave crown; the Hollow Crown, with thicker root at the top and deeper hollow crown; and a “turnip rooted’' form. For ricu, weep soil, the Student is perhaps the best variety, but for general purposes the Hollow Crown type is the most suitable. Of this latter type there are several selected forms which are' offered by seedsmen. The seed does not retain its vitality long, and only fresh, new seed should be sown. It is best adapted to rich, sandy soils, but may be grown successfully on nearly all kinds of soils, provided they are well cultivated. They do well on recently broken up grassland, provided the soil is turned over about Ift. deep. The bulk of the Hollow Crown varieties is formed in the first foot of soil, and any forking deeper down is not of much consequence. They do best, however, on land that han been well manured for a previous crop. No fresh stable manure should be applied to the ground. Parsnips are growing over a long period, and hcnce the object of - manuring should be to, supply a sufficiency of fertilising materials that will become gradually available throughout the season of growth. When sowing, about loz. of superphosphate per yard run of row, or the same amound of boneduet can be applied. After the needlings are up, sulphate of ’ ammonia at the rate of about loz. to three yards run of row should be applied, and another application about three weeks later. The seed should be /sown as early in the spring as possible. Ono ounce of seed will sow about 200 ft. of row. If the seed is known to be of good germinating power, three or font seeds may be dropped

at intervals of about Sin. along the row. Mixing the seed with bran will enable it to be sown more thinly and reduce the “thinning” necessary. The rows should be about 15in. apart and the drills made about lin. deep, and the seed lightly covered. When the plants show the true leaf, as well as the “seed” leaf, usually about a month from sowing they should be thinned out to about Gin. to 7in. apart. The soil between the rows should be stirred several times in the course of the summer. The full food value of parsnips is obtained only when they are boiled whole till quite soft. Cut up and served with butter or dripping, salt and pepper, they make a wholesome dish. Salt fish and parsnips . are a favoured dish on the Continent of Europe. POPPIES. Poppies are favourite flowers with most people. A bed or clump of wellgrown plants is a gorgeous sight. Perhaps the most common are the Shirley poppies, .with their manifold beautiful tints. Oriental poppies are perennial, and are amongst the best of herbaceous plants, but need a well-manured, deep, cool, rich root run. Where they do well they are most gorgeous subjects, producing blooms often nine inches across. There are various colours an. ngst them but the original scarlet is still one of the best. ■ Iceland poppies grow about a foot high,, are of various colours, and can be used for house .decoration. Poppies like a well-drained position, in full sun, and the annual varieties usually do best if sown where they are to flower and the .seedlings thinned out to about a foot apart. The perennial varieties, such as the Iceland and Oriental poppies, can be transplanted; at the same time they resent disturbance at their roots, and do best when left in one place for several years; especially is this so with the Oriental varieties. SUNFLOWERS. There are now quite a lot of miniature sunflowers that are useful for cut flower purposes and garden decorations. They are chiefly hybrids of Helianthus cucumerifolius. Some are shades of yellow, while others, such at> the Excelsior hybrids, have zones of red, purple and brown, and resemble large gaillardias —in fact, they are often mistaken for these popular flowers. They seem to thrive on almost any soil; and on poor soil they not grow so large, and are bettep for cut flower purposes. Seed should e sown now, and the seedlings grown on until it is safe to plant them. RADISHES. The radish is often grown in rough ground, and in the majority of cases is sown far too thickly, the consequence being that instead of the roots being young, fresh, crisp, and juicy they become vaguely reminiscent of horse-rad-ish and turnip and tow. The radish, to be in the best condition, should be grown on rich, moist, and finely-broken soil. If grown quickly it is attractive in appearance, delicate in flavour ,and as digestible as any other salad. Large radishes are of no use whatever, and should not be used. The soil for radishes should be well manured, and when the radishes are up they should be watered once a w’eek with the following:—4oz. kainit, loz. sulphate of ammonia, 2oz. of superphosphate. These manures should be added to one gallon of water. This will promote a rapid growth and ensure tender succulent roots. FORSYTHIAS. Those who have a garden big enough to cultivate a few rather tall-growing flowering shrubs should have- a few forsythias. The tall and somewhat pendant shoots are roped with their glorious blossoms, showing up to the greatest advantage when the sun plays around the plants. F. suspensa, F. viridissima and F. spectamilis are a splendid trio for the shrubbery border andare sure to arrest attention when in bloom. The necessary thinning or pruning should be carried out as soon as the flowering season is over, as the blossoms are. produced on well-ripened shoots made the previous summer. The amount of growth made annually on a plant is a good guide as to the amount of pruning necessary. SOWING CELERY. A sowing of this vegetable should be made in the warmth during September. Flower pots or pans are useful receptacles for the purpose, drain thoroughly and use a light compost, water and allow ample time for surplus to drain away before sowing. The seed being very small only the slightest soil covering is necessary. After sowing place the pots or pans in a greenhouse or frame. Keep near to tlie glass after germination. When the seedlings have advanced sufficiently to handle, prick off into boxes until planting out time. Three inches apart will be none too much space to allow between plants. If they are to be again transplanted to a prepared bed or frame they may be put closer together. DAHLIAS. Where only a stpiall increase of any variety of dahlia is required, it will be quite sufficient to divide the root, retaining a portion of the crown-with a butt on each piece. The latter advice is most important, as tubers broken off without a piece of crown will not form buds. The tubers can be cut back so that they can be put into a pot. If a large number is required the old roots should be started in a greenhouse, and the young growths taken off as cuttings. FORGET-ME-NOTS. When the forget-me-nots have finished blooming dig them up and take them to a shady spot'in ti;e garden. Make the coil nice arid fine, and spread the old plants thickly over the prepared bed. After about 10 to 14 days get a fork and give the plants a good shaking and throw them away. Lightly rake the bed over’ and keep it moist. In a few days you will have hundreds of seedlings, to put into nursery beds for next spring's flowering. ASTERS. It is' needless'to thq.impiirtphtj' part the aster’‘pia/s. in'almost' every

garden, but what is important is to make a sowing as quickly as possible. In many gardens where glass is available, the seeds are already sown and the plants are pricked out. Many, however, have to manage without any artificial aid, and sow the seed in .the open ground. Once the soil is in good condition the seed should be sown. Sow in drills and cover the seed very lightly. The method of sowing where the plants are to flower is to be recommended, as it is a sure preventive of aster wilt, but clean ground is necessary and careful attention to give the small seedlings every chance to get away from slugs and weeds. WATERING PRIMULAS. "While the watering-can is a boon to plants in the hands of a careful cultivator, it may be an evil when used by the careless. In the watering of many plants extreme care is needed; take, as an example, primulas. To pour the water haphazard over the foliage or into the centre of the plant is to court failure; decay of the stem is bound to follow. The correct way is to apply the water direct to. the soil from the edge of the pot. Presuming the latter is to be surrounded by foliage, as is the case with well-grown specimens, the leaves must be lifted to allow wafer to be poured on the soil. BUDDLEIA, Where Buddleia variablis and its varieties are grown as bushes, they should be cut back hard to keep them dwarf, and give rise to strong flowering branches. Plants trained to walls should, have all the side branches cut baqk to lin. or 2in. from, the main stems, which should be preserved to cover the walls. Always make provision for young growths. /These ean easily be seen, for most of theni are now showing. CAMELLIA CULTURE. Camellias arc most conspicuous when bushes are in vigorous condition and laden with a profusion of large, showy blossoms, as at present. The semidouble hollyhock flowered varieties arc well worth growing. Camellia bushes require annual attention, just as the new growth is starting, to judiciously thin out some of the branches. They are subject to the attacks of -scale insects. When the leaves present a black, sooty appearance this invariably denotes tiie presence of scale. When in this condition liberally prime and thoroughly syringe with kerosene emulsion or red oil, immediately after the flowering season. COS. LETTUCE. Cos. lettuce is se.ldo.iji. gj-pwy to. per-. ( (&ctad:fl (! and yet there.. difficulty in : protw.lf.i Ff-*N '-’-mg 1-0 ' t.-fetv 1:1,1 ifi '

conditions. Usually only a few plants ■ are required at a time; therefore only a pinch of seed should be sown at a, time. Sow in a short flat drill, cover the seed very slightly and transplant when the plants are a few inches high. Do not transplant when the soil is dry, or, if it is, always water freely about half an hour before lifting the plants. Seedlings should be lifted with a trowel or small fork. This will prevent damage to the roots. Give at least one foot between each plant, and 15 inches between the rows. Water well after planting. The hoe should be used frequently. It is important to have the ground well manured before planting, if thia has not been done, assist the plants with liquid manure when half-grown, VEGETABLE SEEDS. DISTANCE APART & ’TIME OF MATURING. [Note: The first figure in the middle column. Indicates the distance from plant tc plant In Mie' rows, t-he second figure the proper distance between tlho rows.]

Vegetable. jJiitnco apart to allow, in inches. Trine vu allow fur Maturing from Sowing or Plant's Ing. AiciciwKes — Chinese 9 by 24 20 weeks. Jerusalem .... 12 by 36 36 weeks. Globo i8 by 48 o to 1.2 months Asparagus 15 by 24 From seed, 3 Beans— Broad 6 by 24 years; from 3i yr.-old crowns, 1 year. 13 or 14 weeks. Dwarf Trench. 6 by 24 11 or 12 weeks. '. Runners 12 by 72 12 weeks. Beetroot ....... 9 by 12 15 to 20 weeks. Borecole 24 by 30 7 to 9 months. 5 to 9 months. Broccoli 24 by 24 Brussels Snrouts 21 bv 30 6 to 8 months. Cabbages— Small sorts ... 12 by 15 15 to 18 weeks. Large sorts .. . 13 by 24 18 to 20 weeks. Carrots 9 by 15 18 to 21 weeks. Cauliflowers— Small sorts ... 18 by 24 15 weeks. Large sorts ... 24 by 30 20 to 24 weeks. Celery 9 by 41 5 to 6 months. C'ress 2 to 3 weeks. i weeks Cucumbers ..... llby 24 13 weeks out', doors. Endive 9 by 12 10 to 12 weeks. Leeks 12 by 2'4 6 to 8 months. Lettuce G by 12 10 weeks. Mustard 2 to 3 weeks. Onions— Outdoor sown . 0 by 9 16 to 18 weeks. Box sown for specimen's ,. 12 by 18 21 to 30 weeks. Parsley ——. 12 weeks. Parsnips 12 by 15 18 to 20 weeks. I’cas — Dwarf ...... 2 bv 24 12 to 15 weeks. Medium .... 3 by 48 12 to 15 weeks.trail ....... 4 by 72 12 to 15 weeks. Potatoes— Dwarf sorts .. 9 by 24 14 to 15 weeks. Medium 12 by 30 16 to 13 weeks. Largo ....... 15 by 36 18 to 20 weeks. Radishes MM 5 to 6 weeks. Rhubarb 16 by 36 Prom seed, 3yrs, Salsify ....... 9 by 12 6 months. Savoys— Small sorts 12 by 12 6 -moniths. Largo sorts ... 15 by 18 6 months. Sceizonera .... 9 by 15 6 months. ■Seakale 18 by 2'4 from seed, SyrS. Shallo-ts ...... 9 by 12 .5 to 16 weeks. Spinaoh ...... 6 by 18 10 to 14 weolca, Tomatoes . 12 by 36 6 to 18 week®.Turnips ....... 9 by 12 8 to 2 weeks. Ve. ifarrotrs 15 15 to 18 -woM bH y.ri ■i.Sutt.-per r.'d.i•»,. sir...?.:, 1 ’. Pi.anm . • . it • '• id ’w. ti'A'zrc.s mi -t ■..n/s