FASHION NOTES

Taranaki Daily News, 20 December 1930, Page 19 (Supplement)

FASHION NOTES

' JROM A FRENCHWOMAN’S DIARY.

the PARISIENNE’S colours.

(By Collins Rouff. —Special to News.)

After all the talk about black arid white being her first love again thia season, the Parisienne is changing her mind and wearing certain colours — chiefly green and raisin. The greens are wonderfully varied- Every house has - its favourite shades: one for evening gowns, another for ensembles and

coats, and a third for country clothes. One “evening” shade is soft and pate like the lilac bud; another is soft and dull like mimosa, or a - lily-of-the-valley leaf when the flower has faded and there te a sort of matt bloom on the foliage. The paler tones look best in the air.y silk net; the deeper tints in georgette and inarquteette. “Daytime Greens” are dark, like the darkest emeralds posed on black velvet sO that there is no light in them; though tweed mixtures’ and heavy lajnages are of a much sharper colour and nearly always have a flecked or a looped surface in which white predominates. There is a new tone for smooth flannel-like sports clothes, and this is like very bright billiard-table green. Raisin, the lovely shade which is a close between prune-brown and burgundy, is at jts best in velvet, velours : and heavy georgette. I do not think it sb good in any other fabric, but an ensemble pan- easily be carried out in one or more of these materials. Touches of white do not-look well on this colour, although flesh pink is used occasionally. Do not, however, think that black and white is no mote-On the contrary, it \ is as popular as ever, but. ft change of ' colour schema is refreshing at times. Suite of finest black cloth, with wrapover skirts, white-aatindined coats, and white satin blouses are for smart afternoon occasions. There arc, too, some delightful ensembles in black and white pressed velvet and moire panne. the fitting hip .line. The “Jine” becomes more. and. mote distinct as th© season goes on, day' frocks now being*as closely fitted as the evening ones. Fino lainage and fancy jersey materials are used for morning dresses which are almost gloyc-like in their closeness to the figure. Velvet, georgette, crepe de chine and marocain afternoon models arc almost as. tight, except that the pouched effect above the belt is introduced’, in most of them, and this is not seen.on the tweedsAs for skirts, be they part of the frocks, or worn separately with blouses, they also flt the hips without a crease or an inch to spare. Pleats, "odete or flares which fall gracefully from these fitted hip lines, give plenty of room for free movement in walking. SOME NEW IDEAS; . Hand-bags are not always made of the same materials as the suite and frocks nowadays. They are still produced in the same colours, however; as, for instance, the. hand-crocheted bag in yellow, brown and black wool exactly matching a yellow; brown - and black lainage dresg. For us© with thinner frocks, there are exquisite bags of leather that te‘ worked to look like clothes. Black velvet, finest glace kid, or black crochet woo], is usually chosen . for afternoon handbags, and these, if not of the pochette type, are mounted on old fancy jewelled; frames or else oii new -framesof smoked mother b’pearl, clear amber, ; .jade, or ruby coloured glass. A . Large necklets, longer than a “choker,” not sq, long; as the usual “string,” are made of very large round wooden beads lacquered in Chinese red or blue, or in green and gold. Others are of brightly coloured wood with white spots; others again arc made of an ivory-like substance, with black spots like dominoes- worked into the beads. These necklaces .ar© voted ’chic with .niopning clothes.. A ■

TO ‘BOTTLE-WASH”' georgette.’ -

METHOD ENTAILING NO RUBBING.

Georgette handkerchiefs, collars, scarves and underclothes are ultimately ruined by repeated washings unless they are treated by tho “bottle-wash” method. Get a wide-necked hottie, such a* a seven-pound stone jam-jar or a two-gallon ginger-beer bottle, and half ; fill it with warm soap-flake lather. Put in the georgette articles, cork the 'and shake it well for a minute or two. Leave for a further five minutes, then remove the georgette, which should ba beautifull v clean. Rinse in clear tepid water, hud, if it is necessary to speed up thOrdrying process, proceed thus; refill the bottle with. very hot water, dry the outside, and wrap the.articles smoothly round-it, covering all with-a Turkish towel, ■' - If it ia not necessary , to- resort to “bottle-drying,’’ spread'the articles out to. dry without folding them, .for thequicker georgette dries the better will it . look whenironed. Press with a warm jron when almost dry. bhoula the things be of. printed georgette, it will be safer , to add a little salt to the lather and also to the rinsing water. - Crepe de chine and chiffon may be equally -well dealt with by this method, but chiffon, having a distressing tendency to go limp, should be slightly stiffened with gum water afterwards, MAKE A MENTAL NOTE. Remember that it pays to say what vou mean. Prevarication only leads to misunderstandings, and misunderstandings often lead to terrible unhappiness. Remember that, behind each cloud, the sun is shining with its usual brilliance.

Remember tliat cruelty is a crime—even cruelty of speech. Remember that you can do as good work ns any other woman has done. Remember that triumph and disaster are, in the words of tho poet, to be treated as imposters. Rememfier that troubles always seem worse at night than in the morning. Cheer up, then, and see what rest will do for you.' ~ Remember to remember the good-that ■ people do, not the evil. Remember that it’s easier .to make mischief than it is io mend it _ Remember that there is good in the worst of US; and that, there is also evil in the best of us, Remember that true love is quite unselnsh. Remember that love of animals is a certificate of sincerity.

THE POSSIBILITIES OF FELT. .NECKLACES AND TABLECLOTHS.. (By Mary Lovat.) Felt would scarcely have impressed me as a possible medium for a necklace, had I not seen and handled a chai;mming specimen fashioned of this unpromising material. ' Out of pieces of bright green, black and orange felt had been punched rounds the size of a farthing, Half a dozen rounds of green had been strung close together, the cord knotted, and a white glass bead added, After a further knot came six rounds of orange with a black round in th* centre; then another crystal; a series pf green; and so on again. The result was a necklace- of the newest order, and the effect was more striking than that produced by crepe de chine necklets, especially il\ showing ofl a smart sporte outfit, A felt tea-cosy is most, attractive when grass green has been chosen for the base, and the decorations consists of tree-trunks in brown, lambs in cream, and buttercups and daisies in yellow and white felts. The appliques are not sewn down, but fixed with some -sort of gum adopted to the purpose. . Felt, is an ideal..'substance for, protecting a dining-table from hot plates and dishes. So what do you say to a complete dinner cloth of parchment: tinted felt, each “place” worked with a little posy of felt flowers? These blossoms are quite formal and of extreme simplicity, but they make a delightful splash of colour, and the whole forms a welcome change after a plethora of small table mats. What about these as suggestions for the ; Christmas present list? The -cuttings from one-type of felt composition .will. form, appliques for another. And so expense may be reduced.

MODERN modes IN MAYFAIR.

BLOUSES AND WAISTCOATS.

It is a little disappointing to see the dark blue .tailored shit losing its popularity so soon. Older women, who remember it in the days when np wardrobe was considered complete without it, hoped that the revival would be longlived: but apparently the dressmakers —and certainly the younger generation that tM clerical grey suit is -.much smarter. An occasional navy suit i*'seen, but black and dark grey hold thb field. ' - * □ Blduses are- not worn with tailored suits eb much as they were a few weeks fto-d. The - dainty model with cascades of kilted frills and silk embroidered flowers on front and. sleeves is kept for wear with the silk or satin pleated skirt, the two. forming a pretty “uniform” for afternoons at home. Such blouses ,ar*. seen, too, with the useful semi-fitting silk nuns. . ‘ The correct complement. \f° r -*be severely plain costume is the cut-away waistcoat, with no sleeves and no full* n?ss, which is as carefully fitted as the coat itself. This neat- waistcoat adds ft uote of distinction to the suit, and is very comfortable to wear.' OLD-WORLD FRILLS. More and more old-world touches are bein<* added -to frocks, but the little frills are-very cleverly placed. There is no suggestion of dowdiness even about a- dress which.possesses a friUed.berthe tied with a demure little bow, * frill round the hips to outline the yoke of the skirt, and another at the rein. The material of which one such model vvas fashioned was very soft patterned silk, and the design, naturally, was for a slender figure. Hand-knitted-clothes are found in a great many of the best saloqs, The lace wool 'blouses suggested for wear with light-weight tweeds, for instance,

iimiiiiiiiuiumnun«niltmw are now made by hand, and there is an increasing fancy for hapd-khitted waistcoats in a place of jumpers. The wool is extremely fine, and the foundation colour is always flecked with one or more contrasting shades. Berets and hood toques- —the last word in millinery to accompany country costumes—are hand knitted, too, A special chenille wool is obtainable which cay be worked up at home. A “SLIMMING” EFFECT.

The cross-over line is the‘most noticeable feature of most of the new models. It creates a delightfully slender effect, and adds a kind of ■ Grecian influence to the ankle-length dance or dinner frock. The draperies of the corsage are drawn to one side, and the top of the skirt shows the material crossed from left to right, or vice versa, from waistline to hips, and sometimes as far as the knees. There is no fullness in the skirt, but the effect of soft fold is suggested by the arrangement of the different sections.

A YOUTHFUL FIGURE AT FIFTY. ? USEFUL EXERCISES. ■ . .- ’ (By E.W.S.) , 1 ' The-woman of fifty, with a well-pre-served face and many other ehafming traits, is often spoiled by a figure that reveals tho years which care and intelligence have otherwise managed to conceal.- That dreaded “spreadihg” of the-figure, usually 'associated with .middle , age, is difficult to deal with, since exerciser suitable for older folk are not so plentiful as those for the younger, generation. There are a few,however, which may -be safely practised, aiid which will leave you far from • fatigued—unaccustomed as you may be To-exeraise. ... ’ Here, they are: 1/In- order that you niay f eel well supported for this exercise, stand at thq foot, of yaw bed and, with your back to the rail—midway—stretch out your arms and grasp firmly the' cornets of bedstead. Now raise the right leg to a convenient height, keeping your back well pressed against the bed rail. Drop, repeat , with right leg, and so on. Point the toes each time you raise your leg. In this manner you get two exercises in one—hip reduction and ankletrimness! Repeat six times each side for tho first few days, and increase gradually to twelve, 2. Stand between the bed foot and a chair, and firmly grip each. Swing the right le<r up and- down, keeping your knee stit, and gradually getting the leg higher until you do a real swing. Stop short of fatigue, then do the same with the left leg. This exercise is splendid for inducing a graceful line of v body from the waist downwards. ■ 3. Stand well supported as in last exercise, with feet together and no suspicion of turned-out toes. Suddenly bend forward as though you are about to drop to the floor. Up again—bendup— and ao on. Do this six times at first, working later to twelve. This exercise will loosen muscles that may be « little stiff, and bring about the suppleness which is essential in retaining a youthful figure. -• . ■ Having completed the exercises, he fiat on the floor (well protected from draughts, yet without a cushion for the head) and rest for five minutes. TOMATO HORS D’OEUVRE. Ingredients: Eight tomatoes, two tablespoonsful boiled ..bottled peas, a small boiled potato, six sardines, mustard pickles, salt and pepper, olive oil, stoned and stuffed olives. Cut the tops off the tomatoes and scoop out as much as possible of the pulp, leaving firm unbroken cases.' (The nlup can be beaten up and made into a sauce by boiling with water, salt, pepper, a little butter and some cornflour). Chop up and mix the peas and potato. Clean and chop the sardines, and add them with the chopped pickles,, salt, popper, and enough olive oil to moisten the whole. Mix well, heap the filling into the tomato cases, and stick an olive or two on top of ea,ch. Serve as hors d’oeuvre with fingers of toast or crisp rolls and butter, decorated with sprigs of parsley, celery leaves, or cress in season. They can be served also with hard-boiled eggs as a salad. A NOVEL SUPPER DISH. Ingredients: Three-quarter lb minced meat, salt and pepper, parsley, 1 small cupful thick white sauce, 4 sweet, soft .apples, cinnamon to taste. Fry the meat till almost cooked. Drain off most of the fat, retaining sufficient to keep the meat moist. Add salt, pepper, and plenty of chopped parsley. Make a good white sauce and mix this with the meat. Spread. a layer, of the mixture in a fire-proof dish. Peel, core and slice the apples, arrange a layer of them on the meat, and sprinkle with cinnamon. Repeat the layers of meat and apples till all are used. Bake in a moderate oven for about half-an-hdur, and serve hot with potato scallops.

BUSINESS GIRLS IN NEW YORK. BACHELOR ESTABLISHMENTS. (By Elisabeth Kyle.) The New York business-woman, be she private secretary or buyer for some West End store, must possess a large salary before she can take one of the apartments designed especially for her, since its rent is sure to be enormous Having acquired such an apartment, however, her average morning goes something like this; On rising, she makes her bed, and pushes it right into a wall recess which she closes by sliding a white panel across. There remains then the sweeping of toilet accessories into a drawer, after she has bathed in the adjoining bathroom, which, is sparkling with silver . plating, and gay with coloured bath-salts and perky silk curtains. Five minutes to tidy up the bedroom, to hang an evening gown in the cedar-lined wall cupboard, and to transform the room into a comfortable, lounge. There ape parchment shaded lamps on the low tables, rugs upon the parquet floor, and the ugliness of th? radiator is screened by the wrouglitiron grille which-made a distressing hale in the last pay cheque. One last hurried glance to satisfy herself that she can bring a friend to supper without qualms about untidiness, and she darts into the kitchenette. A delicious fragrance here indicates that the coffee percolator, which was placed on the electric cooker some time ago, has done its job. The kitchenette is really divided into two by low glass-fronted cupboards which hold bits of pottery and maybe a'bowl of flowers on top. On the window side, a flap-up table and a couple

of chairs make an attractive breakfast nook. At the back of the cupboards, partly concealed by them, stand the electric cooker and the refrigerator. The latter is against the wall of the passage beyond, and a trap-door on a level with the top allows all food delivered during the day to be pushed through on to th'e refrigerator by the messengers who bring it, or by the concierge. That curious funnel-shaped porcelain-plated thing in one corner is the incinerator, down which is shot all rubbish.

Meanwhile our business-woman has swallowed her coffee, and moved the dishes to the working cud of the kitchenette, confident that the quaint little cupboards in the , middle will screen all untidiness from her suppercompanion. For to-day she has neither time to wash them, nor to take the vacuum cleaner over tho flat. She crams on her smart hat, drops a letter into the postbox outside her door, and takes the elevator down to the street below.