FASHION NOTES

Taranaki Daily News, 26 April 1930, Page 23 (Supplement)

FASHION NOTES

LEAVES FROM A DIARY. THE LONG OR THE SHORT. (By Colline Rouff. —Special to News.) Before planning her wardrobe, the smart woman naturally looks out for the foundation, as it were, on which the new fashions are based. At the moment, after a season of doubts and misgivings over the length of frocks, we are all intent on discovering whether the long or the short skirt has won. And we find that all evening frocks are long, arid that all afternoon frocks are much longer than those of last year, being only an inch, or two above the ankle in some cases. Tailored skirts also conic mid-way between - knee and calf, and sports and tweed frocks are the same length. . When the . designers said long, they meant .iorig, but • the sensation-mongers .had to twist the word about and make it imply 'sweeping trains. Still, there is no need tb worry. These new lengths are smart and becoming, dignified without being dowdy, elegant without being cumbersome; so I think you will like them as much as I do, and be prepared to cast aside tlio- knee-showing skirts for the season. . A -QUESTION OF WAISTLINES. Next we have the waist question to decide. As usual, the exaggeration has been great, and we have seen funny little suits with skirts that were not only waist high, but almost up to the arm-pits—more “Empire” than those of the Empire period. These skirts gave us a shock, of course, for no woman who was not. like a straw could contemplate such a silhouette. However, again there is no need to worry. Evening gowns follow the lines of the figure, defining slightly the natural waist and clearly outlining the hips, so we take .the real princess style as the foundation of most evening frocks. For the most elaborate afternoon frocks, the same idea is modified in accordance with the different length. The bodice will not be so long; the princess line will not be so clearly defined, but rather suggested by the careful use of gathers at the sides, by rounded panels where the skirt is .attached, by shaped flounces, or by one deep flared flounce cut? bn the bias. The waistlines of sports and morning clothes will be decidedly higher than formerly. It will, in fact, be just above the hips; a belt must define this line. Talking of belts, there are many women who want, to wear princess afternoon frocks, but cannot enjoy the sight of themselves in the long unbroken line. They feel they must compromise and have the narrow waist by a small but very good buckle. These women will be glad to know that the belt is permitted, not only'on an afternoon frock, but on an evening one also, if desired. By the by, there is no need to wear the buckle in the front; it is quite as smart at the back. " CAPES. There is a very marked leaning towards the cape again, many .of the light tweed coats having them in shoulderblade length. A very slim woman can easily wear the double cape, but the one who is the' slightest degree thick at the back of the neck must say “No thank you.” She must accept' the single one and, even in that, always be sure to. carry herself as straight as a little boy. That is the best of. the cape—it makes us look to our carriage. Some of the short coat's of the sports ensembles are cut with practically straight, fronts, on the lines of the cardigan while the backs hang loose with a decided “capcy” swing. In the light and pretty materials of very fine wool, this is a most attractive line.

, Afternoon frocks, designed for out-of-door wear have .berthe-capes which fall to the waist at the back and tie in a fichu-knot in front. Evening gowns favour similar attachment, only more ornamental and longer at the back, instead of the not-so-new-coatecfi.