IN THE GARDEN

Taranaki Daily News, 25 July 1929, Page 17

IN THE GARDEN

THE WEEK’S WORK. THE FLOWER GARDEN. The ground is altogether too wet for. much outside work. Alterations to the general layout and trenching and digging of borders 13 possible. Clean up amongst the shrubs, raking up old leaves, and burying them. Fork over the ground between the shrubs. The planting of roses and other trees and shrubs can be done, if soil is not too heavy. With heavy soils it is best left for a time. Hydrangeas can be pruned. Out back to good strong buds. The strongest buds will be found near the top of the stem. Therefore do not cut all the steins back; leave sufficient to produce a good show of bloom, and cut the weak: ones down to the base. Dahlias are now entirely over and can be lifted and stored in a dry frostproof situation. Under a macrocarpa hedge is all right in many places. See that labels are securely fixed to each root. Once the label goes astray the plant loses its value. Hedges of conifers, that is, such things as macrocarpa, can be cut now. Chrysanthemum cuttings can be taken. The old stools must be protected and carefully watched, or slugs will ruin dozens of cuttings. Seedlings in boxes, and also any young plants in the open ground, must have attention, the soil being stirred occasionally, THE VEGETABLE GARDEN. Little work is possible, with the exception of digging and trenching. Hedge cutting and cleaning out the weeds at the base needs doing. Rubbish heaps and untidy corners should be cleaned up. Let your rubbish heap be an open trench, which can be filled in when about half full. Crops at this time of the year are slow, and need the soil stirring occasionally. Pull up soil to the stems of cabbage and cauliflowers. This prevents the plants from swaying with the wind, and also helps to keep the ' plants somewhat drier and warmer. Asparagus beds can be cleaned, and new beds prepared. Peas and potatoes can be planted in sheltered positions. It is no good on heavy, wet soil. Raised beds are useful. Plant the potato sets shallow, and draw up the soil as the tops grow. Cut potato sets in boxes to sprout, ready for planting. Keep onion beds free of weeds; transplanting can be done when the weather improves. Prepare the ground for sowing spring onions. Shallots, potato onions and garlic can be planted now. Deeply trench the ground for new plantings of rhubarb. Abundance of manure is required. Prepare ground for planting fruit trees, but do not dig out the holes and leave them open; fill in the soil. This is a good time to go over the old seed stocks and get rid of all questionable stocks. It really does not pay to bother with old seed, a few shillings will buy sufficient for the average garden. Make out your seed order, and also-place your order for any roses, fruit or other trees and shrubs you may require. THE GARDEN FRAME. Sooner or later th*, possessor of a garden feels the need of a frame. It may be said that a garden can scarcely be cultivated to perfection without the aid of a frame, but many gardens are managed well without a frame. Nevertheless a cold frame is a valuable addition to a garden, and not only widens its capabilities but increases its. value. , During autumn and winter it can be : used as a shelter for seedlings, and with its assistance in spring, plants and vegetable crops can be brought to perfection ; considerably in advance of those outside j grown. If there is only one frame avail- ; able it is best to have one that is easily ;

movable. During winter it can be placed in a light, sunny position where it can obtain all the sun and natural warmth. In summer it can be placed in the shade, where it is naturally shaded from the direct rays of the sun. Wherever the frame is placed it should have a dry, well-drained position, even if it means placing it on a mound of soil. The frames may be made of wood, turves or bricks; these latter, however, are permanent structures. The size of the frames depends upon the “lights” that are used, but a very convenient size is six feet long by four feet wide. Old windows can be used, and the frame should be made so that the “light” overlaps at the bottom edge to throw the water out from the frame. Slots should bo made between the panes to allow the water to get away. Boards 9xl make a good frame. One board can be used for the front and two for the back. The corners should have a piece of 3 x 1 3 to which the sides and ends are nailed. These corner pieces can be level with the top and bottom of the frame or they can be left so as to be sunk in the ground for about a foot. Where the frame is made long enough to take several lights, rafters should be run between each light to prevent the back and front boards bulging out. A very good temporary frame can be made of turves. These are gross sods cut about a foot long by nine inches wide and four inches thick and built up in the form of a wall similar to bricks. If puddle clay, with a small quantity of chopped hay, grass or straw mixed, is used in a similar manner to mortar it binds the turves together and excludes air. The uses of a frame is manifold, but if full value is to be obtained it must have attention to ventilation and be kept clear of insect pests, otherwise it simply becomes a harbour of all kinds of pests and disease. The function of a cold frame is to keep off excessive rains I and extremely bad weather, and on every . possible occasion air should bo given, even if it is only a little. To‘attempt any forcing methods by keeping the frame closed is to court trouble. The ground where is stands should be cleaned of insect pests, and before the frame is placed in position treated with a soil fumigant such as White Island Product. If the frame is used for plants or seeds in boxes or pots it should have an inch or so of coarse cinders or scoria placed in the bottom, as this renders good drainage and is easily kept clean.

MONTBRETIAS. There have been remarkable improvements in the montbretias of late years, and as most varieties are very accommodating as to soil and cultivation they might with advantage be more widely ■ grown. This is particularly so with ’ some of the newer varieties. The older, better-known kinds became somewhat unpopular on account of their spreading habit and possibly because they were too easily grown. There can bo no doubt that in many cases the plants spread enormously and produced very few flowers, but this fault should not be laid to the plants, being really due to the gardener’s neglect. To get really good results from montbretias, whether \of the old varieties or the newer ones, they require a certain amount of attention. As soon as they become dormant (usually about this time of year) they should bo lifted and divided. The old roots should be discarded and the younger growths from the outer edge of the clump be replanted, allowing at least three inches between each. The ground should be well worked and manured to a good depth and proper drainage must be provided as most bretias hate anything in the way of stagnant soil. A certain amount of protection is also desirable—cold southerly winds stunting the growth. Of the newer varieties the most outstanding is undoubtedly His Majesty. The flower is large and of perfect shape with petals of great substance and velvety texture. The flowers are rich yellow at the base, shading into a warm chestnut brown at the edges of the petals. The plants are vigorous, but in every way very refined. As a decorative cut flower it would be hard to find anything more beautiful. The older Star of the East is all yellow and not so hardy, but still a desirable plant. Montbretia Rosea has a somewhat different nature of growth, being distinctly bulbous and so not causing any annoyance by suckering. The flowers of this variety are much smaller, but of a charming shade of pink and are borne on thin wiry stems which are covered with buds which open well in water. WINTER IN VEGETABLE GARDEN. With seed-sowing operations greatly restricted during the present month, the gardener will have much more time available for the planting out of various vegetables, the roots of which may now be transplanted. Principal ainong these are asparagus and rhubarb, and associates of the vegetable section, such as gooseberries, currants, strawberries, loganberries and raspberries may also be planted. All of these plants should be given plenty of room, as if crowded in any way the growth becomes spindly, and good fruit is out of the question. The sowings of vegetable seeds for Juno will bo confined to a few varieties, the most popular of which are broad beans. It is not advisable to plant seeds of root crops at this time, as they come in and remain practically right through the winter, while, unless continually scarified, the young plants are sure to become crowded out and smothered by weeds. It is advisable, therefore, to wait until August before sowing these crops, so that they will go straight ahead after germinating and mature quickly. In the growing of the vegetable section, the condition of herbs should be noted. If they have become tall, it is usually a sign that the plants need dividing and replanting; now is the best time to do it.

The cultivation of ground around fruit trees should now be attended to, and the annual application of bone manure should be dug into the soil as far as the spread of the branches. Apply this at the rate of foil. 1 ounces to the square yard.

RHUBARB CULTIVATION. This. genus consists of about 20 species of large-leafed herbs with thick, fleshy roots. Most of these are natives of Central Asia ancT the Himalayas. The varieties that thrive best in New Zealand are Topp’s Winter, a ; red-stemmed variety, very sweet, and Giant Victoria, the large-stemmed or summer variety. These varieties are said to have sprung from rheum rhaponticum, and rheum undulatim. Both are natives of Siberia.

Rhubarb is very easy of cultivation. It succeeds best in rich deep soil, well dug and drained. Plenty of rotted stable manure trenched under the roots makes all the difference between good and bad stems. Rhubarb is a gross feeder and requires plenty of water and liquid manure. The roots rarely suffer from any disease, and so long as the crowns are kept free from weeds they will continue to bear fruit for a long period. The roots should be planted with the crowns buried about two inches under the soil, three feet apart in the rows, and three to four feet between the rows, in a light position. The plant should never be allowed to flower and the flower stalk should be cut away as soon as it makes its appearance.

WINTER HINTS. Very light soils should not be manured until late winter’or early spring, but on heavy land such work should be attended to with all speed, when the weather and state of the soil allow. Bulbs growing in ornamental bowls filled with fibre must never become dry, but if they become too wet tip them on their sides until the surplus water has drained out. The watering of all such bulbs should be intelligently carried out. Those who possess light, well-drain-ed soils should remember that they can leave in the ground through the winter, things that are normally lifted and stored. Gladioli, for instance, will be quite safe and, moreover, will begin growth much earlier in the following season.

Garden paths which have fallen into disrepair should not be allowed to remain so, provided they are constructed of materials that can be dealt with. The aim should be to make paths comfortable to walk upon in all weathers.

WINTER CARE OF LAWNS. The regular mowing and rolling of the lawn during approximately threequarters of the year cause a serious drain on the vitality of the grass. It is a mistake, therefore, to continue

those operations during winter. Furthermore, the rest which is now badly needed by the grass will be more beneficial if it is combined with a little judisious feeding. At this time of the year it should not take the form of anything stimulating, such as nitrogenous fertiliser, but a top-dressing of finely-sifted soil.

Before applying this, prick over the surface lightly with a fork, for air is a vital necessity to the roots, and rake oft' any moss. At the same time wormcasts can be distributed with a stiff broom.

It is not wise to destroy worms on lawns, for they serve a useful purpose in aerating the soil. Their casts, which arc composed of just the soil the grass appreciates as a top-dressing, can be scattered before becoming unsightly. As far as possible, avoid walking on lawns when they are frost-bound or rain-sod-den. LILAC. This is undoubtedly one of the most popular flowering shrubs, and deservedly so. When lilac is well grown the bushes are covered with masses of delightfully fragrant flowers during spring. Who does not look forward with pleasure to lilac time! Lilacs are too often spoiled by being over-pruned.' Pruning should be done just after the flowering is over, and only the old flowering stems should be cut out. It is hopeless to try to trim a lilac bush into shape, because it means a sacrifice of so many flowers. Lilacs flower best when grown in soil that is not too rich. A light sandy soil and a sunny position suits them admirably. All suckers should bo kept severely cut out and dead wood or weak growth should be renewed. The oldfashioned white or mauve lilacs are always satisfactory. There are also many delightful more up-to-date varieties. Manure should be given only to plants growing in very poor soil, and then weak liquid manure should bo used. Heavy soils should bo considerably lightened by means of sand, ashes, etc., and a heavy subsoil should be well broken up and lightened. The majority of plants object to waucr lying about their roots in winter, and unless a heavy subsoil is attended to this is inevitable.