GARDEN NOTES

Taranaki Daily News, 1 December 1923, Page 16

GARDEN NOTES

(B$

“Agricola.”)

THE VEGETABLE PLOT. THE SPACING OF CROPS. Many people teach themselves to believe that true economy in cropping ground consists of grqwing two crops where room really exists for one only, and that by crowding plants in the rows a greater quantity of produce can be procured. With them such vital factors as adequate light, air, and root room are frequently overlooked or totally ignored, while thinning on orthodox lines is considered unnecessary and wasteful. The least can be said of such beliefs is that they are very far removed from all the true principles of garden management, and it ig mostly due to the practice of these ideas that so many complaints are heard as to crops failing or otherwise proving unsatisfactory.

Of all the crops which are subjected to overcrowding in gardens, probably none are more severely restricted, or manifest the evil effects of the practice so plainly, as dwarf beans. The seed of these subjects is too often sown as thickly as that of 'peas, and a scanty crop borne over a comparatively short period is the result. On the-other hand, when the beans are planted at intervals of eight inches along drills drawn at from fifteen to eighteen in'ches asunder, the resultant growths' with proper cultivation, quickly develop into handsome, bushy specimens- with stout stems and foliage, and plants in that condition almost invariably turn out most productive. Runner beans also do infinitely better when ample space is afforded them. If •treated rightly in other ways, plants standing ten or twelve inches apart in the rows will continue to bear excellent beans for a considerable time longer than those grown only a few inches apart. The final thinning of tap-rooting crops, which include beets, carrots, turnips, and parsnips, is seldom carried far enough, with the result that large leaves are developed instead of handsome roots. Onions are often grown much too closely together, consequently thick necks form at the expense of large, shapely bulbs. But in most gardens almost every crop is subjected to overmuch restraint.

The following gives the approximate distances apart which the most commonly grown crops should be allowed both in the rows and between them. It should be understood, however, that some variations of practice from that recommended may be necessary under particular circumstances. Broad beans. —The distance must depend upon the sorts, but three feet will suffice generally as the distance between double rows. The two lines forming the double lines should be not less than nine inches apart, the seed being sown at similar intervals. Dwarf beans.—The rows to be from fifteen to eighteen inches asunder, according to the variety sown, and the plants eight inches apart. Runner beans.—Ten or twelve inches, and the rows five feet apart. Beet.—Fifteen inches between the rows and nine inches between the plants. Borecole. —Two feet asunder each way. Similar space should be allowed for the larger varieties of cabbage. Eighteen inches each way will answer for the I small sorts.

Broccoli and cauliflower.—Twentyseven inches apart each way. Carrot.—The rows to be ten or twelve inches apart for the small sorts, which should be thinned finally to five or six inches asunder. The long kinds require to be left nine inches apart in the rows, these being separated by a distance of fifteen inches. Celery. —Not less than nine inches apart. Cucumbers.—Thirty inches between these will suffice. Endive.—Curled varieties a foot each way, and for the broad leaved fifteen inches. Leeks.—To grow large leeks, plant a foot apart, but for a crop of medium sized roots six inches will suffice. Lettuce. —The rows should be twelve and the plants eight or nine inches apart. Onions. —Rows of large sorts should not be closer than fifteen inches asunder, but a little more can be given with advantage. For ordinary purposes, nine inches will be sufficient space to allow between the plant®. Spring sown onions need thinning to fully six inches apart, while the rows should not be under fifteen inches apart. Parsley.—Sow in clumps at interval? of eight inches, and thin to one strong plant in each group. Peas.—The dwarfs should stand one inch apart in the lines and from three to four feet allowed between these. Tall kinds should be quite two inches apart, the rows being five feet, or more, asunder, according to the variety. , Radish. —Nine inches between the rows will suffice, but the plants should be thinned to an inch apart. Tomatoes—Plant at from eighteen inches to two feet each way; according to the kind or system of training adopted. Turnip.—Form the rows'fifteen inches apart and thin to about eight inches between the plants. Vegetable marrows, pumpkins, etc. do not require the root space that is frequently recommended for them. Plant or sow three feet apart each way.

THE FLOWER GARDEN. ROSES. In most gardens roses have given their first flush of bloom, and will now be developing new shoots. They may be assisted by liquid manure made from dung, or with nitrate of soda or sulphate of ammonia at the rate of half an ounce to the gallon of water, applied, of course, to the ground only—not over foliage. These latter, being very stimulating manures, should not be used to excess. It is wasteful to give more than the quantity advised, and may also be very harmful. The soft, sappy character of the fresh growths renders them subject to attacks from green fly. Regular spraying with black leaf “40” —one teaspoonful to the gallon of water in which enough soap has been dissolved as to make it frothy, will keep the pests in check. The use of kerosene should be strictly avouW •when home-made remedies are being prepared for the control of green fly.

for the reason that kerosene and water alone cannot be made properly to unite, and oil of most kinds is very injurious to vegetation. Kerosene has a burning effect, killing not only insects but all vegetation with which it comes into contact. / GENERAL. There should be no indecision in the matter of providing stakes for such plants as require them. It is most desirable that neat, inconspicuous stakes be used and arranged in such manner that, while affording support to the plants they show off the 'beauty of the flowers to the fullest advantage. Canterbury bells and delphiniums are contributing most usefully to the general effect in gardens just at present. Both of these subjects can be easily grown from seed which should be sown now. The great mistake many cultivators make in raising Canterbury bells consists of sowing the seed at the wrong time. Quite often the work is done in autumn, and wonder is express ed at the plants failing to flower in their season. The first two weeks in December is the best time to sow.

Hollyhock seedlings raised early in spring should now be large enough for planting out. Good deep soil, and a sheltered position suits them best. Older plants sending up their flower spikes should 'be staked, and all of them be syringed with insecticide once a week. The stakes should not stand more than four feet out of the ground. The syringing should be done upwards from below, to clear the undersides of the leaves.

A capital annual for massing in beds and borders is the Swan River daisy. When grown about nine inches apart each way, the masses of bloom, which closely resembles that of cinerarias, but are more refined, make a most imposing display. The failures which sometimes attend the cultivation of this annual are often directly traceable to its being grown in over-rich soil. What it prefers is fairly' good, moist ground, and an open position. Although amenable to transplanting, it does better if not disturbed. Given proper treatment plants resulting from a sowing made now can be had to flower in autumn.

Peg down the long shoots of verbenas and annual phloxes. This attention will tend to keep the roots of the plants cool, and generally enhance the appearance of the beds. Moreover, by keeping the former subject pegged* down, many of the shoots will take root, and if the flowers ere removed as they fade a brilliant and more lasting display will result than would otherwise be the case.

Sow wallflowers for flowering next season. It is never advisable to keep wallflowers on for a second season as they do not flower nearly so well as young plants from -eed sown early in summer.

Perennial lupins in bloom should be making one of the most prominent features of the garden. As soon as over cut down the spikes, leaving the surrounding foliage, and take care to give plenty of water throughout summer. These subjects provide an excellent home for slugs, etc., during hot weather, hence search should be made amongst them occasionally for these pests.

Paeonies will in some districts be getting over. Having been -o gorgeous, however, their summer requirements should not easily be neglected. Keep the roots moist, and next year’s display will prove even better than that of this year. By all means surface the soil about them with dung or grass mowings from the lawn, but put nothing of the kind over the crowns or they will probably’ rot. Liquid manure may be given once a fortnight until March.